[G2K]

Any picture of what to buy... where to spray and such? Thabks in advance

[KingLT1]

CRC makes a product. You disconnect the Maf connector, remove intake elbow from throttle body, start the car, and spray through the throttle body.

If the engine bogs down, quit spraying until it returns back to normal idle speed.

You don't need to go crazy and spray a whole can, just enough to where you see the bore around the throttle body is clean. It surprisingly gets carboned up pretty fast.

You will get a CEL from disconnecting the Maf which can be cleared with a scan tool or disconnecting the ground on the battery for 30minutes.

Originally Posted by AndyUK

I've seen it done on a car with about 30k miles on it and it does remove the majority of whats there - this isn't going to completely fix a car with 100k on it and down on power, but done regularly it would certainly help stave that day off

Yup...as I mentioned earlier, I did this on my GMC Terrain after I bought it and it made a big difference. Part of the reason why I started this thread as a heads up. If you start doing this as a preventative maintenance early on in the engines life, then it may save the need to take it in for the expensive media blast cleaning procedure down the road.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

CRC makes a product. You disconnect the Maf connector, remove intake elbow from throttle body, start the car, and spray through the throttle body.

If the engine bogs down, quit spraying until it returns back to normal idle speed.

You don't need to go crazy and spray a whole can, just enough to where you see the bore around the throttle body is clean. It surprisingly gets carboned up pretty fast.

You will get a CEL from disconnecting the Maf which can be cleared with a scan tool or disconnecting the ground on the battery for 30minutes.



Yup...as I mentioned earlier, I did this on my GMC Terrain after I bought it and it made a big difference. Part of the reason why I started this thread as a heads up. If you start doing this as a preventative maintenance early on in the engines life, then it may save the need to take it in for the expensive media blast cleaning procedure down the road.

actually on the CRC stuff, you should have 2 people unless you have a way to keep the gas pedal pressed. the rpms need to be kept around 2000 rpms. do it in about 10 second bursts, and the entire can should be used per cleaning. this is per the instructions on the can. remember, this isn't technically for the TB...this is to get to the intake valves. after the can is done, rev 3 times, and shut it down. wait near an hour, start up and drive highway speeds. been using it for about 3 going on 4 years now.

you don't have to disconnect the maf sensor at all. just use a port somewhere on the intake tube PAST the maf sensor, on the intake manifold itself. PCV port is one option Ive used on the LFX (2013 Camaro) and the clean side port on the LGX (2016 Camaro).

[KingLT1]

That is fine...I am just reporting how I do it. The throttle body still needs cleaned too, which is why I do it the way I do. I have been doing this for 20yrs on Throttle Body equipped fuel injected engines.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

That is fine...I am just reporting how I do it. The throttle body still needs cleaned too, which is why I do it the way I do. I have been doing this for 20yrs on Throttle Body equipped fuel injected engines.

Thats all cool as well, but the crc valve cleaner has only been out since 2014. And gdi gasoline direct injected engines, which have the carbon buildup on the intake valves is the reason the entire can should be used. The point is to soak down the backs of the intake valves thouroughly allowing the baked on cabon deposits to soften and emulsify.

Thats what this posts topic is about... intake valves cleaning via solvents ...which is why im tryin to stay on topic.

Being that gdi engines are relatively new, 20 years ago port injection was the ticket, and the carbon buildup on valves wasnt as much an issue. Due to gas being sprayed past the intake valves.

Tb cleaning most can do with a rag and cleaner. But most arent gonna be reaching the intake valves with a rag and cleaner. A clean tb as you stated doesnt mean your valves have been cleaned in any degree. Once again the post and product mentioned is about cleaning the intake valves not the tb.

By all means you can do it however you please. Dont think im gonna try and stop ya.

But gdi engines function differently than port injected engines from 20 years ago. Comparing older port injected engines and their maintainence is no where near the valve issues that gdi engines of ALL brands have currently over time.

Theres a reason the companies that have designed these products state to raise the rpms (both seafoam and crc) a bit, to use the entire can, and to let it heatsoak. Thays all im sayin, and nothing more.

[CruzySS]

Catch can will help but not completely eliminate the buildup

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

Thats all cool as well, but the crc valve cleaner has only been out since 2014. And gdi gasoline direct injected engines, which have the carbon buildup on the intake valves is the reason the entire can should be used. The point is to soak down the backs of the intake valves thouroughly allowing the baked on cabon deposits to soften and emulsify.

Thats what this posts topic is about... intake valves cleaning via solvents ...which is why im tryin to stay on topic.

Being that gdi engines are relatively new, 20 years ago port injection was the ticket, and the carbon buildup on valves wasnt as much an issue. Due to gas being sprayed past the intake valves.

Tb cleaning most can do with a rag and cleaner. But most arent gonna be reaching the intake valves with a rag and cleaner. A clean tb as you stated doesnt mean your valves have been cleaned in any degree. Once again the post and product mentioned is about cleaning the intake valves not the tb.

By all means you can do it however you please. Dont think im gonna try and stop ya.

But gdi engines function differently than port injected engines from 20 years ago. Comparing older port injected engines and their maintainence is no where near the valve issues that gdi engines of ALL brands have currently over time.

Theres a reason the companies that have designed these products state to raise the rpms (both seafoam and crc) a bit, to use the entire can, and to let it heatsoak. Thays all im sayin, and nothing more.

Well said...and what I was trying to allude to in my earlier reply.

Cleaning the back of the intake valves takes some method of direct contact. Chemical solvents sprayed through the motor WILL NOT WORK.

[KingLT1]

Yea you have said that more then once...but you have not backed it up with any facts.

[JFM-jr]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Well said...and what I was trying to allude to in my earlier reply.

Cleaning the back of the intake valves takes some method of direct contact. Chemical solvents sprayed through the motor WILL NOT WORK.

Im not sure why you dont get what King said earlier. If you do it early enough then a spray cleaner WILL CLEAN the valves. I have removed my intake and cleaned the valves by hand and with a tube wire brush using a strong citrus degreaser. What I had on there at the time would not have come completley clean with a spray alone. I also had 10K miles on the car and if I do it every 1500 miles from here out I believe the spray will clean things up just fine and prevent it from becoming bad enough that the cleaner wont clean it fully.

My before / after

I dont know why this site randomly flips pictures upside down sorry but you get the idea.