06-29-2017, 07:48 AM | #15 |
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I'll be the contrarian here and say that I think learning on the street tires isn't a bad idea. Their tolerance is pretty low, so the line between a bog and a spin is pretty thin - but that's a good teacher. If you can cut some 2.0's on a street tire, then going to drags with that knowledge and feel will pay off pretty quickly.
That e-brake preload, on street tires, makes quite a difference. At least for me, with all stock diff/cradle bushings. With solids it's probably a lot less of an issue, but any time you can reduce shock loads to your expensive parts (ie. axles/diff/driveshaft/trans) you're doing yourself a favor. If you're going to drag race routinely I recommend making it part of your routine - it's really not that hard once you adapt.
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06-29-2017, 09:43 AM | #16 | |
SomeguyK
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
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06-29-2017, 10:56 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
When I'm ready to light the stage beam I will gently let the clutch out till it just starts to drag - and that is enough to just inch the car into the stage beam. As soon as the stage beam lights I step on the clutch and pull firmly on the e-brake to stop the car rolling further. Then I bring the car up to launch rpm. When the tree starts to drop (standard tree - with a pro tree would be a little different) I release the clutch just enough to feel/hear the engine drag just a touch against the clutch. When I'm ready to leave I make my clutch release as I simultaneously release the e-brake. It's been my experience that this really helps the car leave a little more solidly, and reduces wheel hop. You're basically "taking the slack" out of everything - most specifically all of the bushings and mounts in the driveline. When you launch with the car "loaded" like that, you're not shocking those components, and then having them spring back, creating wheel hop, or breakage. I posted a video earlier in this thread - you can see me using the e-brake launch technique there. Give it a try a few times on the street to get familiar, but it really is pretty easy.
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06-29-2017, 11:39 AM | #18 | |
SomeguyK
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
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06-30-2017, 11:57 AM | #19 |
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Alright, I get that doing the preload e brake thing can help take the shock out of the driveline, but I find it very hard to believe that it is a key component to improve your 60'. Yes, wheel hop will kill your short time but a good launch technique along with suspension parts will do the same at eliminating it.
For the average /novice drag racer, this added step of the e brake only complicates an already difficult process. Seat time and common sense are invaluable in launching an M6. If you feel wheel hop, get off the throttle. Folks who stay in it break parts. Drag racing is an accepted risk of breaking parts. Simple as that. People have broken half shafts on the street with stock power. I knew every time I went to the track there was a chance of getting a tow truck ride home, but after hundreds of passes, I never broke. If people really wanna do this e brake thing for peace of mind, I understand. But please know that if you're a novice, this will probably complicate things.
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12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
06-30-2017, 12:06 PM | #20 | |
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
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06-30-2017, 01:16 PM | #21 |
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Grip it and rip it.
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06-30-2017, 01:29 PM | #22 |
SomeguyK
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I really just need to get my 60 foot down. That is what is killing my ETA. Hopefully I can go to the track tonight. I am gonna try and launch at around 4-4.5k and see what that does.
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
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06-30-2017, 04:09 PM | #23 |
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What track?
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12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
06-30-2017, 05:21 PM | #24 |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. |
06-30-2017, 08:57 PM | #25 |
SomeguyK
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Didnt go tonight due to rain.
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. |
07-07-2017, 06:58 PM | #26 |
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Any new runs?
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07-07-2017, 10:09 PM | #27 | |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
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lol bro you launch at that rpm on street tires, as Cheech and Chong said "Up in smoke"..save that rpm for dr's...lower psi in stock tires to 20-24psi...I do a 2nd gear burn out up to the lights...it's all about learnin the slip at about 3k...good luck...
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07-08-2017, 07:10 AM | #28 |
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^I hope you beat that Fox body Rustang.
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