[JamesNoBrakes]

Things to think about are that the SS 1LE brakes are fairly adequate for the size and power of the car, but add more power, and you need more brakes, because you'll overpower them with faster speeds and heavier braking now, this is why the ZL1 weighs significantly more (and has bigger brakes, amongst other things), it's more than just adding a blower, you have to beef up more of the car to deal with the added power, make sure you can keep it cool, etc. Otherwise, you may go fast in the straights on the highway or from a stop-sign, but you may not go any faster and possibly slower around the track.

[trackguy]

With the concern you've expressed, were I in your shoes I'd make sure I was logging temperatures and pressures so I could review them after the event was over. Those will tell you how your car is doing in terms of handling the heat buildup during track sessions. You can then use that data to guide you in determining what steps to take to keep the temps down.

Since I know SP Main well (I'm assuming it's Main you'll be running), I'll offer the following unsolicited advice: do not ask too much of yourself or your car while passing through T4 or exiting T10.

Originally Posted by Krypton1le

I'm not a very patient person

Me either! lol Nevertheless, you'll need to have plenty of it running SP Main, which is very much a handling track and not really a horsepower track. It's a wonderful track, and I know you'll have a great time there!

[hammdo]

I’m not a gen six, but eventually you will run into having to do cooling mods. I did a ton on my gen 5 before I pulled down etc (and I’m an auto!)...

Road course mine often...going this weekend!

-Don

[nasbagoat]

Good idea.
This can easily be done if your car has PDR by taking the footage and dumping it into Cosworth Toolbox.

Originally Posted by trackguy

With the concern you've expressed, were I in your shoes I'd make sure I was logging temperatures and pressures so I could review them after the event was over. Those will tell you how your car is doing in terms of handling the heat buildup during track sessions. You can then use that data to guide you in determining what steps to take to keep the temps down.

Since I know SP Main well (I'm assuming it's Main you'll be running), I'll offer the following unsolicited advice: do not ask too much of yourself or your car while passing through T4 or exiting T10.



Me either! lol Nevertheless, you'll need to have plenty of it running SP Main, which is very much a handling track and not really a horsepower track. It's a wonderful track, and I know you'll have a great time there!

[Krypton1le]

Unfortunately, I don't have PDR - but I have HP Tuners on order for tuning/dataloging. So, I'll be able to record just about everything of interest - assuming my laptop doesn't get obliterated in the process.

Blowers fully installed though and did a first start over the weekend (just checking for fluid leaks and bad noises - was still running on the stock tune so the MAP sensor readings were all out of wack) - just waiting for my own copy of HPT and a base tune from ADM so I can take it over to the dyno for final tuning. This weather needs to hurry up and get warmer so I can get this back on the road.

[Roostie]

Most drivers who are new to the track don't use the brakes or the engine nearly as hard as experienced track drivers, so you may not run into the sort of overheating problems that a veteran track driver would with that car.

I'd wager that *most* of the car-BQ's (fires) and catastrophic driveline failures occur with vehicles that have aftermarket FI or that increased boost far above OEM FI pressures. If you start to drive the car very hard at track days, I suspect you will spend a lot of time and money trying to resolve overheating and any number of other problems. If you just track the car on relatively cool days and don't drive it close to its limits, your experience may be good. Sounds like a wild car, have fun!

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Krypton1le

Unfortunately, I don't have PDR - but I have HP Tuners on order for tuning/dataloging. So, I'll be able to record just about everything of interest - assuming my laptop doesn't get obliterated in the process.

Find out what you'll need to do to secure that laptop in a manner that satisfies tech inspection. Having loose stuff in the passenger compartment is a big no-no.

Blowers fully installed though and did a first start over the weekend (just checking for fluid leaks and bad noises - was still running on the stock tune so the MAP sensor readings were all out of wack) - just waiting for my own copy of HPT and a base tune from ADM so I can take it over to the dyno for final tuning. This weather needs to hurry up and get warmer so I can get this back on the road.

Explain clearly to your tuner what you're going to be doing, and repeat that you're going to be doing 20 minute or longer road course sessions. You want a safe, conservative tune oriented toward endurance. Not a tune focused on big power numbers like you might for a car that's only going to see WOT for a few seconds a handful of times an hour at the dragstrip.


Norm

[misterjaayy]

I’ll be following this closely. I also have the LT4 blower installed and tuned by Adm on my 2016 Camaro SS. I also asked Andy about road racing and he mentioned the same customer he told you about. I pulled the trigger figuring I would be good .

However after reading about the piston and crankcase failures on blown motors I’m more than a little sketched out about doing long pulls on a superchargered car without at least going forged pistons and having a good catch can that can vent the crankcase. Maybe even fuel upgrades depending on the power and tune as people seem to be leaning out on long pulls. I think asking this on the FI section could yield some good info and better insight into road coursing a supercharged LT1.

I could just be paranoid and the car will perform fine. I’m definitely no car expert. But this car is a hell of a lot of fun on the streets! Please keep us updated on how your road course experience goes. I will be street driving 99 percent of the time but would like to do a course a few times a year.

[Deakins]

To be honest my main concern would be connecting rod fatigue over time. While forged, the oem rods are pretty light duty...they are good enough for what the LT1 was designed for but you are adding a good bit of load to them. Unlike the street machine/occasional 1/4 mile guy your engine will experience more cyclical loading in one solid track day than their engine will see in several years. If you do this, and hit the track a fair amount understand that you will likely need to do some internal engine work in a year or 2. That or run the gauntlet and hope it stays together. If it were me...I would start setting aside about 6 grand to open it up next year and set it up to handle the track use.

[Krypton1le]

In regards to the catch can - Andy didn't recommend any - it was something I also asked him about. With that said, I have also read some issues with ventilation causing blown seals and it seems the universal answer is a catch can or crank case breather in place of the oil fill cap (probably the easier option of the two). Though the blown seals tend to be the secondary failure resulting from ring failures and excessive blow by.

What I'm getting at is that i'll probably be installing a vented catch can or crank case breather in the near future to help mitigate that risk

[misterjaayy]

Any update? Did you make it to a road course with the blower installed?

[Want1]

Originally Posted by misterjaayy

Any update? Did you make it to a road course with the blower installed?

+2.