To remove or not remove rear cradle.... - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Cornflakes'Camaro · 04-09-2016, 08:39 PM

When I come back from my deployment, I will be strengthening the rear cradle and installing these following items:

ZL1 driveshaft
ZL1 axles
ZL1 3.73 differential (144lbs, btw)
Rear cradle bushings
Toe rods
Trailing arms

My question is simple. Should I remove the whole rear cradle to install these items? I would have to drop the cradle to install bushings, and am leaning towards completely dropping it to install the differential/trailing arms and toe rods. What are the thoughts of those people who have done these modifications?

Thanks,
CC

jrhagen · 04-09-2016, 08:41 PM

Had it done. Actually, swapped out the rear cradle for the ZL1 as well. Doable but a complete PITA.

Cornflakes'Camaro · 04-09-2016, 08:46 PM

Seems like it would be a lot easier to just completely lower the cradle than to lower it, press the bushings out, retorque it and still work to replace the differential underneath the car.

jrhagen · 04-09-2016, 09:26 PM

It is a lot easier to do it all on a lift.

FunkedOut · 04-09-2016, 09:33 PM

I'd say remove the cradle bushings one at a time keeping the cradle on the car.
it's real easy using the weight of the car, a jack and a propane torch.
it would be a major pain with it removed.

toe rods and trailing arms have no need to remove the cradle.
although drivers side needs to be done while the cradle is lowered for the bolt to clear.

haven't done the driveshaft, axles or diff, but I'm planning on doing it (diff) soon without removing the cradle.

Synner · 04-09-2016, 09:37 PM

Cradle bushes is easier with it on the car and pressing them out as mentioned above. The rest of the work is same level of effort whether you drop it or not so leave it in. I used a motorcycle jack but a tranny jack would be fine too for getting the diff in there.

Cornflakes'Camaro · 04-09-2016, 10:06 PM

I have a motorcycle jack to lift the differential in.

It seems like the general consensus is to leave the cradle in. I don't understand how leaving it in and putting a 144lb differential in will be easier than taking the whole sub frame out and having space to work.

After hearing input on the bushings,I could lower it, press the old bushings out, press the new ones in and then completely drop the cradle to work on it then?

FunkedOut · 04-09-2016, 11:10 PM

once the driveshaft is unbolted, it's not a big deal to drop the cradle; brakes and sensors.
maybe I'll go that route?
if I struggle with it on the car, I'll be quick to drop it, I guess.

thanks for your service.

Cornflakes'Camaro · 04-09-2016, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkedOut

once the driveshaft is unbolted, it's not a big deal to drop the cradle; brakes and sensors.
maybe I'll go that route?
if I struggle with it on the car, I'll be quick to drop it, I guess.

thanks for your service.

The cradle is only held to the frame by the 4 bolts that harbor the bushings, correct? If I have to replace the bushings, therefore remove those 4 bolts, it seems it would be easy to drop the cradle once I remove the extra attachments (ie. brakes) should I feel it would be easier to install the remaining parts.

No need to thank me sir, I get thanked on the 1st and 15th. Thank you for your appreciation.

FunkedOut · 04-10-2016, 12:05 AM

yep, just those 4 bolts.

Dexman1349 · 04-11-2016, 01:45 PM

I just lowered the cradle when I did my bushings/toe links/trailing arms. No need to fully disconnect, and you can do the whole thing with jackstands and a jack in your garage (that's how I did it). Yes, it's easier on a lift, but you can do it without one too.

2012LS3VERT · 04-11-2016, 11:41 PM

When doing as much as you are planning, I would remove the cradle. It isn't that much work when doing it all at once, I have the same setup in the rear of my car and installed many parts on customer's cars. If it was just the cradle bushings, I wouldn't drop the whole cradle. It is those four bolts, but also the lower strut bolts and calipers, and one harness connector. When installing the toe rods, the inner bolts require lowering the cradle to remove, I flip it around at that time to save future work as well.

04-09-2016, 08:39 PM	#1
Cornflakes'Camaro Counting down the days... Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fort Walton Beach, Fl Posts: 637 View My Garage	To remove or not remove rear cradle.... When I come back from my deployment, I will be strengthening the rear cradle and installing these following items: ZL1 driveshaft ZL1 axles ZL1 3.73 differential (144lbs, btw) Rear cradle bushings Toe rods Trailing arms My question is simple. Should I remove the whole rear cradle to install these items? I would have to drop the cradle to install bushings, and am leaning towards completely dropping it to install the differential/trailing arms and toe rods. What are the thoughts of those people who have done these modifications? Thanks, CC __________________ Tick Performance Custom Cam w/ support mods/BBK LT Headers w/ midpipes/Straight Exhaust/Airaid Cold Air Intake/ZL1 Driveshaft/ZL1 Differential/Hendrix Engineering Offset Bushings/ZL1 Axles/BMR Rear Subframe Bushings/BMR Toe Rods/Carlyle Racing 15" Conversion/Jannetty Winsheild Bottle Scoop/Forgestar 15x10 Beadlocks wrapped in Mickey Thompson Radial Pros

04-09-2016, 08:46 PM	#3
Cornflakes'Camaro Counting down the days... Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fort Walton Beach, Fl Posts: 637 View My Garage	Seems like it would be a lot easier to just completely lower the cradle than to lower it, press the bushings out, retorque it and still work to replace the differential underneath the car. __________________ Tick Performance Custom Cam w/ support mods/BBK LT Headers w/ midpipes/Straight Exhaust/Airaid Cold Air Intake/ZL1 Driveshaft/ZL1 Differential/Hendrix Engineering Offset Bushings/ZL1 Axles/BMR Rear Subframe Bushings/BMR Toe Rods/Carlyle Racing 15" Conversion/Jannetty Winsheild Bottle Scoop/Forgestar 15x10 Beadlocks wrapped in Mickey Thompson Radial Pros

04-09-2016, 10:06 PM	#7
Cornflakes'Camaro Counting down the days... Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fort Walton Beach, Fl Posts: 637 View My Garage	I have a motorcycle jack to lift the differential in. It seems like the general consensus is to leave the cradle in. I don't understand how leaving it in and putting a 144lb differential in will be easier than taking the whole sub frame out and having space to work. After hearing input on the bushings,I could lower it, press the old bushings out, press the new ones in and then completely drop the cradle to work on it then? __________________ Tick Performance Custom Cam w/ support mods/BBK LT Headers w/ midpipes/Straight Exhaust/Airaid Cold Air Intake/ZL1 Driveshaft/ZL1 Differential/Hendrix Engineering Offset Bushings/ZL1 Axles/BMR Rear Subframe Bushings/BMR Toe Rods/Carlyle Racing 15" Conversion/Jannetty Winsheild Bottle Scoop/Forgestar 15x10 Beadlocks wrapped in Mickey Thompson Radial Pros

04-11-2016, 01:45 PM	#11
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	I just lowered the cradle when I did my bushings/toe links/trailing arms. No need to fully disconnect, and you can do the whole thing with jackstands and a jack in your garage (that's how I did it). Yes, it's easier on a lift, but you can do it without one too. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

04-09-2016, 08:41 PM	#2
jrhagen Banned Drives: Camaro Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: USA Posts: 2,701	Had it done. Actually, swapped out the rear cradle for the ZL1 as well. Doable but a complete PITA.

04-09-2016, 09:26 PM	#4
jrhagen Banned Drives: Camaro Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: USA Posts: 2,701	It is a lot easier to do it all on a lift.

04-09-2016, 09:33 PM	#5
FunkedOut Drives: Black 2010 SS Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 447 View My Garage	I'd say remove the cradle bushings one at a time keeping the cradle on the car. it's real easy using the weight of the car, a jack and a propane torch. it would be a major pain with it removed. toe rods and trailing arms have no need to remove the cradle. although drivers side needs to be done while the cradle is lowered for the bolt to clear. haven't done the driveshaft, axles or diff, but I'm planning on doing it (diff) soon without removing the cradle.

04-09-2016, 09:37 PM	#6
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,544	Cradle bushes is easier with it on the car and pressing them out as mentioned above. The rest of the work is same level of effort whether you drop it or not so leave it in. I used a motorcycle jack but a tranny jack would be fine too for getting the diff in there.

04-09-2016, 11:10 PM	#8
FunkedOut Drives: Black 2010 SS Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 447 View My Garage	once the driveshaft is unbolted, it's not a big deal to drop the cradle; brakes and sensors. maybe I'll go that route? if I struggle with it on the car, I'll be quick to drop it, I guess. thanks for your service.

04-10-2016, 12:05 AM	#10
FunkedOut Drives: Black 2010 SS Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 447 View My Garage	yep, just those 4 bolts.

04-11-2016, 11:41 PM	#12
2012LS3VERT Drives: 2012 2SSRS Vert, Black w/M6 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 1,265	When doing as much as you are planning, I would remove the cradle. It isn't that much work when doing it all at once, I have the same setup in the rear of my car and installed many parts on customer's cars. If it was just the cradle bushings, I wouldn't drop the whole cradle. It is those four bolts, but also the lower strut bolts and calipers, and one harness connector. When installing the toe rods, the inner bolts require lowering the cradle to remove, I flip it around at that time to save future work as well.