2011 LS Camaro V6 Coolant/Engine Temp Issue - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

dwaynemartins · 01-05-2022, 08:42 AM

Hey All - thanks for taking the time to read this... I know there hare hundreds of "overheating/coolant issues" on these cars, and each is a little different so I'll get right down to it.

2011 V6 Camaro LS (130,000) All normal maintenance has been performed regularly

I have had *zero* issues with this camaro prior to bring it in to a shop in 2019 for a 0420 code. They replaced the themostat and coolant and ran a flush to clear out all of the unburned fuel, carbon build up etc. CEL gone. A few weeks later, I notice coolant under the car in the morning. Didnt think much of it. Then again, then again. Pandemic hit, drove less, then late 2020 realized one day it was overheating... reservoir bone dry, radiator low. Filled it up, seemed to be OK, but I still dont drive very often, still working from home.

Now I smell the coolant maple smell a lot more often and I am noticing temps get high at idle, especially after driving "hard". Driving, city or highway seems to be fine, until I slow down, then it starts to creep up.

I noticed the cap was bad, and there was white residue beneath it. I figured this is where the leak was from, noticing the same white residue also on the engine block where the water pump and timing belt is... possible it just spread around. I could see liquid coolant in a small pool on the outside of the block.

Its been a few weeks now, seems like that fixed the leak but I am still getting that maple smell, and my temps are still rising. A few weeks ago I did a test with a buddy, leaving the car on, at idle to make sure my fans kicked on. They kicked on but not until the coolant was in the 230s so I think the fans are good.

I also decided to flush the radiator. I used distilled, cycled, drained, and replaced with 50/50 dex-cool. This made no difference, but while burping with the radiator cap off, I did notice that the thermostat was opening and closing to let coolant into the block, so I believe that is working properly as well.

I read somewhere that not all thermostats have the same threshhold temp, in which it opens at a higher-temp, like 230 vs 210. Prior to this issue, it used to hover at either 199 or 205. If I was driving it was very consistently at 199, or 205 at idle.

The Engine temp seems to stay pretty consistent, the oil temp gauage does go up with the coolant temp, and the digital coolant temp is what I have been gauging all of this on which is what I am assuming is the temperature of the coolant flowing through the block to cool the engine/engine oil.

I am almost at a loss here, and I would love some help/opinions/direction from the community... otherwise I think I just may have to bring it to a shop.

There are so many pieces that go into cooling, I am just your garage DIY mechanic...

Does this sound like its not burped properly?
Does this sound like a bad thermostat?
The wrong thermostat?
A radiator issue?

Rock-It Man · 01-05-2022, 10:29 AM

The first step in diagnosing an overheating problem is a pressure check. The cooling system is pressurized to raise the boiling temperature of the coolant. If the system is not pressurized, coolant will boil off. This will happen no matter what temperature actuates the thermostat to open.

Since you continue to have a leak somewhere, you will not only lose coolant that drips out on the floor, you will lose it to boiling off while the engine is running. That's why you smell coolant even when you don't see dripping.

TooCool5 · 01-05-2022, 10:51 AM

Check under your cap for gunk. Had to clean mine to get it to seal better.
Was smelling coolant.

dwaynemartins · 01-05-2022, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

The first step in diagnosing an overheating problem is a pressure check. The cooling system is pressurized to raise the boiling temperature of the coolant. If the system is not pressurized, coolant will boil off. This will happen no matter what temperature actuates the thermostat to open.

Since you continue to have a leak somewhere, you will not only lose coolant that drips out on the floor, you will lose it to boiling off while the engine is running. That's why you smell coolant even when you don't see dripping.

This is exactly what I am looking for. I will get this done first.

So because I am still smelling coolant, that means there is still infact a leak somewhere. By replacing the cap, that did not solve the leak... that also really good to know.

Thanks so much for your help!

dwaynemartins · 01-05-2022, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TooCool5

Check under your cap for gunk. Had to clean mine to get it to seal better.
Was smelling coolant.

Do you mean inside where the cap goes into, or just the cap itself?

I replaced the cap, there was a crack in the bottom of the old one so that was an easy fix.

dwaynemartins · 01-05-2022, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

The first step in diagnosing an overheating problem is a pressure check. The cooling system is pressurized to raise the boiling temperature of the coolant. If the system is not pressurized, coolant will boil off. This will happen no matter what temperature actuates the thermostat to open.

Since you continue to have a leak somewhere, you will not only lose coolant that drips out on the floor, you will lose it to boiling off while the engine is running. That's why you smell coolant even when you don't see dripping.

Is this something I should be able to validate myself, with a kit like this?
https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Universa...NrPXRydWU&th=1

Or something I should bring to a shop to test and validate for me?

gtstorey · 01-05-2022, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwaynemartins

Is this something I should be able to validate myself, with a kit like this?
https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Universa...NrPXRydWU&th=1

Or something I should bring to a shop to test and validate for me?

I have one of those kits and they can be a help but the results can often be open to interpretation. If it leaks down, is it because of a leak in the system or is it a leak in the tool setup? Of course that will depend on how much of a leak it is.

If you do take it to a shop, don't take it to the one that replaced the thermostat for a P0420 which is a catalytic converter code and a "flush" to get rid of "unburned fuel, carbon etc".

dwaynemartins · 01-05-2022, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtstorey

I have one of those kits and they can be a help but the results can often be open to interpretation. If it leaks down, is it because of a leak in the system or is it a leak in the tool setup? Of course that will depend on how much of a leak it is.

If you do take it to a shop, don't take it to the one that replaced the thermostat for a P0420 which is a catalytic converter code and a "flush" to get rid of "unburned fuel, carbon etc".

Thanks for that.

Agreed. fortunately/unfortunately they are now out of business (MIDAS ahem. ****ers ahem.) I wanted to at least go bitch them out, but they couldnt make it through the pandemic. I will never take my car to another chain again. I just have yet to find a honest, reputable shop around here in Orlando, FL.

I wouldnt be surprised if the thermostat housing is where its leaking now. I guess I may just take it to a shop after all and let them diagnose it. Then at least I can get a definitive solution.

gtstorey · 01-05-2022, 02:29 PM

If the leak is big enough then the kit can be helpful since it will cause water to come out under pressure so you can see the leak.

01-05-2022, 08:42 AM	#1
dwaynemartins Drives: Camaro V6 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 13	2011 LS Camaro V6 Coolant/Engine Temp Issue Hey All - thanks for taking the time to read this... I know there hare hundreds of "overheating/coolant issues" on these cars, and each is a little different so I'll get right down to it. 2011 V6 Camaro LS (130,000) All normal maintenance has been performed regularly I have had zero issues with this camaro prior to bring it in to a shop in 2019 for a 0420 code. They replaced the themostat and coolant and ran a flush to clear out all of the unburned fuel, carbon build up etc. CEL gone. A few weeks later, I notice coolant under the car in the morning. Didnt think much of it. Then again, then again. Pandemic hit, drove less, then late 2020 realized one day it was overheating... reservoir bone dry, radiator low. Filled it up, seemed to be OK, but I still dont drive very often, still working from home. Now I smell the coolant maple smell a lot more often and I am noticing temps get high at idle, especially after driving "hard". Driving, city or highway seems to be fine, until I slow down, then it starts to creep up. I noticed the cap was bad, and there was white residue beneath it. I figured this is where the leak was from, noticing the same white residue also on the engine block where the water pump and timing belt is... possible it just spread around. I could see liquid coolant in a small pool on the outside of the block. Its been a few weeks now, seems like that fixed the leak but I am still getting that maple smell, and my temps are still rising. A few weeks ago I did a test with a buddy, leaving the car on, at idle to make sure my fans kicked on. They kicked on but not until the coolant was in the 230s so I think the fans are good. I also decided to flush the radiator. I used distilled, cycled, drained, and replaced with 50/50 dex-cool. This made no difference, but while burping with the radiator cap off, I did notice that the thermostat was opening and closing to let coolant into the block, so I believe that is working properly as well. I read somewhere that not all thermostats have the same threshhold temp, in which it opens at a higher-temp, like 230 vs 210. Prior to this issue, it used to hover at either 199 or 205. If I was driving it was very consistently at 199, or 205 at idle. The Engine temp seems to stay pretty consistent, the oil temp gauage does go up with the coolant temp, and the digital coolant temp is what I have been gauging all of this on which is what I am assuming is the temperature of the coolant flowing through the block to cool the engine/engine oil. I am almost at a loss here, and I would love some help/opinions/direction from the community... otherwise I think I just may have to bring it to a shop. There are so many pieces that go into cooling, I am just your garage DIY mechanic... Does this sound like its not burped properly? Does this sound like a bad thermostat? The wrong thermostat? A radiator issue?

01-05-2022, 10:51 AM	#3
TooCool5 Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LS 3.6 LLT V6 325 HP Join Date: May 2009 Location: LS Posts: 4,242 View My Garage	Check under your cap for gunk. Had to clean mine to get it to seal better. Was smelling coolant. __________________ 2010 Camaro Auto, Inferno Orange, Titanium Interior, Gearhead Wheels AIRAID CAI

01-05-2022, 10:29 AM	#2
Rock-It Man 376 cubic inches of fun Drives: 2023 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: MA Posts: 4,033 View My Garage	The first step in diagnosing an overheating problem is a pressure check. The cooling system is pressurized to raise the boiling temperature of the coolant. If the system is not pressurized, coolant will boil off. This will happen no matter what temperature actuates the thermostat to open. Since you continue to have a leak somewhere, you will not only lose coolant that drips out on the floor, you will lose it to boiling off while the engine is running. That's why you smell coolant even when you don't see dripping.

01-05-2022, 02:29 PM	#9
gtstorey Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,155	If the leak is big enough then the kit can be helpful since it will cause water to come out under pressure so you can see the leak.