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Old 03-22-2014, 10:15 PM   #15
Pro Stock John
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Yeah they need long burnouts in my experience.

Those are hardly any street miles, maybe time for 2 sets of rims? At that rate the tires would last me a month.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:15 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 3rdgen3 View Post
Sorry, I must of missed the part on what's all done to your car and ls3 or l99 or LSA?

Have you ever tried the Hoosier qtp's? I heard from a local buddy that they last longer then m/t's and very close in performance.

Also how are you doing your burnout with the Nittos? I have a feeling you're not getting them hot enough. Much like the nitto nt555r, they need to get hot, and I mean reallllly hot in order to stick good.

Try a new burnout technique. With the Nitto's, you gotta toss away your thinking/technique that works for the mickeys. Try adding more wheel speed for an additional 10-15 seconds on top of whatever burnout technique youre using right now.

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I doubled and tripled my burnout last night and still blew the tires off the car. I'm sure a couple of my burnouts were in the 15 to 20 second range. I'm going to try some additional smoke next time out. 5 to 7 seconds was plenty for the Mickey's. The Nittos seem very hard, I couldn't find much rubber on the tape behind my rear wheels, the Mickey's used to leave the tape black, even when they were brand new. I'm not sure these tires are capable of hooking with 480 RWHP and a 4,040# car, but I'm going to give them one more chance. Their replacements have already been ordered.

As for the Hoosiers, they don't make an 18" drag radial with an OD that is compatible with my fronts, and that would freak out the ABS.

Appreciate your help.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:22 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
Yeah they need long burnouts in my experience.

Those are hardly any street miles, maybe time for 2 sets of rims? At that rate the tires would last me a month.
Wish I was able to have a dedicated set for the track, but my physical condition is such that I can't change tires. I have to find something that I can leave on the car, drive to the track on, and hook, and the Mickey's do that, even if they don't last long. You have to pay to play!

I'm going to burn those tires to hell and back next time out, and see if they'll hook.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:57 PM   #18
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I have 18's and have run mine as low as 16 cold.
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Old 03-23-2014, 01:36 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
I have 18's and have run mine as low as 16 cold.
I had mine down to 15 hot/warm and it was actually worse than 17 hot/warm on my car, which was best. Still over a tenth slower on the 60' (1.719) with spin/hop and over 2 tenths slower on the 1/4 (11.553). I didn't notice the pressure going up more than a half pound from before to after a run.
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Old 03-23-2014, 01:13 PM   #20
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I had no problem consistently pulling 1.5xx 60 foot on the Nt05r 18 inch wheel.
Stay out of the water. Slow burnout. Till you hear the tires trying to bite in. About 10-15 seconds. I had a couple sets of these tires and it took a while to figure how and what they liked at our local track.

I didn't have luck with the mickeys on 18 inch rims.
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Old 03-23-2014, 02:26 PM   #21
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I had no problem consistently pulling 1.5xx 60 foot on the Nt05r 18 inch wheel.
Stay out of the water. Slow burnout. Till you hear the tires trying to bite in. About 10-15 seconds. I had a couple sets of these tires and it took a while to figure how and what they liked at our local track.

I didn't have luck with the mickeys on 18 inch rims.
I'll try it. Would like to be able to make them work and save these tires from the "scrap" pile in the shed. They are 305/45R18s, as were the Mickeys. They sure are much harder to get a handle on than the Mickeys were for me.

What RWHP and transmission in your car and what pressure do you run in the tires?
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Old 03-23-2014, 03:22 PM   #22
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My car dead hooks on them, but my gearing is not aggressive. I don't see how 1.6s would be a problem with nto5rs! My car only 1.75s but should be a little faster now with the new rims, my car never even comes close to spinning them even on a small burnout.
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Old 03-23-2014, 03:27 PM   #23
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At the time I had 600 whp tr6060 trans. 16 psi
Stay out of the water. Most important.
Exactly what were your. 60 foot times on the mickeys? As well as the nto5r?
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Old 03-23-2014, 04:55 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jam3 View Post
At the time I had 600 whp tr6060 trans. 16 psi
Stay out of the water. Most important.
Exactly what were your. 60 foot times on the mickeys? As well as the nto5r?
60' times on Mickeys were very consistently in the low 1.6xs. So far on the NT05R I haven't had a 60' time without spin/hop, but they varied from 1.72 to 1.92, with only one below 1.82. I'm a 6L80 with a 4000 stall converter.
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:45 PM   #25
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I sent an email to Nitto about the NT05R, and the answer is one of the most useless (almost comical) supposedly technical things I think I have ever read. For your enjoyment here it is in its entirety.

"We appreciate your interest in Nitto Tire products.
The optimum operating temperature for the NT05R is between 160 and 220 degrees F. This is typically measured after the burnout and at three points across the tread; inside, center and outside of the tire. Please do be sure to roll completely out of the water box before performing your burnout. If you were to perform the burnout while in the water box, you may have water splash into the wheel well and then drip onto your tires before launch. Do not let the front tires get wet.

Some racers have found that just giving the tires a good burnout and the not a full Pro Stock burnout, can help with performance.

If you have not found the optimum tire pressures for track use, we recommend starting at 20 psi and lowering the air pressure in 0.5 psi increments. We recommend you stop reducing the tire pressure when you reach 15 psi or experience rim slip. Also, after track use, please be sure to bring your tire pressures back up to the appropriate tire pressure for street use.

For the NT05R, a good starting range for camber is between -1 and -3 degrees. We would recommend high 30s for hot tire pressures, as this is about where we've heard the NT05R works best. However, please use these suggestions as a guideline. The best setup for you is ultimately determined by what you feel most comfortable with.

Sincerely,
Nitto Tire Consumer Relations"
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:21 PM   #26
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Lol! So essentially.... BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH... Just like the teacher in Charlie Brown flicks... Lol!
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:07 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Rhino79 View Post
Jeff I suggest the m and h drag radial or the Mickey.
yep , i like the m/t . but m and h is right there with them.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:52 PM   #28
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Well, I went and had my alignment checked yesterday and the rear was off quite a bit (toe out). Had that fixed and am going to see if that helps any, along with a longer burnout.

M&H drag radials ODs are too small to go with the fronts I have and will freak out the ABS, etc. Already have a new pair of MTs laying in the garage in case I can't make the NT05Rs work and/or lose patience. Probably won't buy anything other than the MTs from here on.

Edit: Not M&H that are too small. Working from memory is not smart at my age because I have very little. It was Hoosier that was too small diameter.

Last edited by jbrown13; 03-27-2014 at 04:52 PM.
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