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Old 04-23-2013, 10:43 AM   #15
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Which site sponsor has Elite catch cans? And how long should I expect to wait for delivery?
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:10 PM   #16
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but it’s difficult to find even a single report that any build-up has actually occurred – a record that is notable considering that Cadillac has sold more than 200,000 CTS models with DI V6s (Audi sold fewer than 2,000 RS 4s in the US during its two-year sales run).

So I stopped reading here.A sample based on the first 2 years? Really? We won't see the real benefits of catchcans until there's at least 7-8 years/50k-60k miles on our engines.(I'm estimating - those numbers got pulled out of my butt.)

And the phrase "difficult to find"? Did the author not look hard enough, or did he want to say "impossible to find" but couldn't justify it?
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:18 PM   #17
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Any of the posters that say cans arnt needed we need to all send our bottles of cought catch can oil to them to pour into their intakes "to help lube up their valves"
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:23 PM   #18
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Is this issue v6 only or do V8's also have this problem? Also as far as cleaning the intake valves. Can you connect a can of seafoam into the intake and spray the can in with the engine running to get the same result as opening it up and cleaning them with a rag and cleaner?
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:43 PM   #19
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Wow not again ! Just get a good quality catch can, there is no better insurance for your motor ! Here is my new one to help with my SC evap routing.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruuzin LV View Post
Is this issue v6 only or do V8's also have this problem? Also as far as cleaning the intake valves. Can you connect a can of seafoam into the intake and spray the can in with the engine running to get the same result as opening it up and cleaning them with a rag and cleaner?
Maybe.

It depends how much oil/carbon build-up you have.

If a lot then no. The reason is the step where you let the Seafoam sit and soak only "cleans" in intake ports where the valves are closed. For the valves that are open it just runs into the cylinder and "cleans" there.

You could do multiple treatments but that is a crapshoot on which cylinders will be closed each time.

I'm also told that multiple Seafoam treatments are not the best thing for the engines and cats.

If you look at my DIY you can see the result of running a cleaning (BG 44K, not Seafoam) before the manifold removal. There is still carbon on my valves.
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:14 PM   #21
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Maybe.

It depends how much oil/carbon build-up you have.

If a lot then no. The reason is the step where you let the Seafoam sit and soak only "cleans" in intake ports where the valves are closed. For the valves that are open it just runs into the cylinder and "cleans" there.

You could do multiple treatments but that is a crapshoot on which cylinders will be closed each time.

I'm also told that multiple Seafoam treatments are not the best thing for the engines and cats.

If you look at my DIY you can see the result of running a cleaning (BG 44K, not Seafoam) before the manifold removal. There is still carbon on my valves.
Thank you for the info. Sounds like its better to remove the intake manifold and clean by hand rather than waste time and product just spraying it in. Good to know!
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:48 PM   #22
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SC2150? I think I understand all the info on cans.(believer) With the valving designed to go one way, why wouldn't the design just route the oil left in the can back into the engine? As in running it into the oil pan, or am I just over thinking it?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:23 PM   #23
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$150 to protect an $8000 engine is cheap insurance.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:33 PM   #24
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SC2150? I think I understand all the info on cans.(believer) With the valving designed to go one way, why wouldn't the design just route the oil left in the can back into the engine? As in running it into the oil pan, or am I just over thinking it?

because the entire oil system is pressurized from the oil pump & due to the combustion blowing by the piston and into the crank & oil pan, they have to route it into the intake because that's the only part of the engine that has a vacuum (negative pressure) instead of positive pressure. Every other part of the engine is pressurized, the intake is the only part with a vacuum. In the old days they just exhausted it out of the engine into the atmostshpere but EPA now outlaws that.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:23 AM   #25
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Very well said. I understand and thank you.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:06 AM   #26
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I'm new to the catch can? Is this easily installed yourself? Where does info and which ones are the best?
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:53 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruuzin LV View Post
Is this issue v6 only or do V8's also have this problem? Also as far as cleaning the intake valves. Can you connect a can of seafoam into the intake and spray the can in with the engine running to get the same result as opening it up and cleaning them with a rag and cleaner?
All gasoline engines will benefit from halting the oil ingestion. Long term the deposits are part of any engine, short term the detonation caused by the ingestion is the most immediate negative. You only want air/fuel in the combustion chamber as the oil reduces the usable octaine of the fuel and also negativily effects the burn pattern, etc.

The DI engines, the valve coking is happening before 10 k miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutbutt View Post
Wow not again ! Just get a good quality catch can, there is no better insurance for your motor ! Here is my new one to help with my SC evap routing.
Attachment 501899
Saiku Micchi is an excellent can, but they do not have the proper setup for turbo or centri SC. You must have a dual flow controlling checkvalve system setup correctly with the proper cleanside setup as well.

If you want details, we are steadily getting these in and retrofiting them properly.....your choice. If you want very detailed description of all just PM.



Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberPunk223 View Post
because the entire oil system is pressurized from the oil pump & due to the combustion blowing by the piston and into the crank & oil pan, they have to route it into the intake because that's the only part of the engine that has a vacuum (negative pressure) instead of positive pressure. Every other part of the engine is pressurized, the intake is the only part with a vacuum. In the old days they just exhausted it out of the engine into the atmostshpere but EPA now outlaws that.

Part of it. The biggest issue is the caught oil has a concentration of damaging combustion byproducts in it and reintroducing it to the crankcase is pouring in abrasive carbon particles, water, unburnt fuel, sulfuris acid, etc. that are part of a proper crankcase (PCV) evacuation systems function to remove while still in a suspended state.

That is why so many have issues over time by deleting evacuation and flushing. You can just vent pressure, but then changing your oil every 500 miles or so is not economical to avoid the long term engine damage caused byt allowing these compounds to accumulate in the crankcase every heat/cool cycle. If these are not fulshed out and evacuated while still in a gasseous state, they condense and accumulate in the engine oil.

We see this all the time with engine builds we do.

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Old 04-24-2013, 07:03 PM   #28
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understood, thank you.
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