2011 Camaro 2SS Can Not Burn Out & Low Idle

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by rebelyell22

I like the flowmaster outlaws

yea those r the ones i want.. they are on amazon for around 550... thanks for the tip .

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by Comrando

You are going to need a tune to set the speedometer/odometer correctly when you change the gears. If you don't do that when you sell the car it will be marked as "Mileage Unknown".
It's not like the good old days where you just changed a gear in the tailshaft.

And NO to the throttle body spacer.

Flow-Masters make a nice sound.

i was looking at the specs you sent me on the gears.. does it really matter i lose that much top speed when i change the gears? i was under the assumption i would gain top speed.. i know i will gain torque which will mean faster launches/take offs but would it really matter i lose that much? or should i just do some mods to gain horsepower instead.. i already ordered the rears and made the appt wit the shop.. this is the first car i have done so work with me here. i am a motorcycle man and i decided to go with a fast car this time due to all the crap with bikes ( accidents) in my town... Can you give me the pro's and cons of changing the gears to 3.73.. i guess I'm getting cold feet and don't want to spend that much none and regret it... lol...

[JM20]

Originally Posted by KahunaSS

yes thanks for the info.. I know i need to tune to set the speedometer... i want to do everything correctly .. i don't want to do S++t half assed.. i wanted to get the Outaw flow masters.. i haven't heard them yet but i hear good things... When i shop does the ring and pinion do they need to change out anything else besides the ring and pinion.. The mechanic said there might be a bearing that might need replacing if it needs to be pressed off.. I just want to know so i know all my sh+t when i go drop off my car when the gears come in... Its a reputable shop in town.. been around forever.. and i have not heard any bad things about them. if they f- up my car there is gonna be problems... lol

Can you let me know the shop you're using? I've been looking for a good place in the area.

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by JM20

Can you let me know the shop you're using? I've been looking for a good place in the area.

I'm getting everything done at Foschi Auto Tune... They have been around for a while in Vineland.. I know people who swear by them,,,

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by Comrando

It's always a trade off. You will definitely accelerate faster.

When I bought my LS3 I got a price on 4.10s from the dealer. When I asked about the tune and warranty they went silent, so I didn't do it.

Since then I have come to love the 3.45. First gear tops ~50MPH so no shifting on the local streets to hit the speed limit. 112 in third and the Camaro is rated at 13 flat, 111 MPH in the quarter, so no shifting to 4th just before the end of the strip.

With the gearing in the 6L80 you will shift to 4th before the end of the quarter so you may as well go big. Of course with an automatic shifting doesn't involve the driver.

In between your 3.27 and the 3.73 is the 3.45. A bit more top speed in 4th but it may not be worth the cost as the acceleration won't increase as much as the 3.73.

i was just wondering because I'm here just thinking about top speed as if I'm really going to hit 250 mph anywhere.. Then i forget to factor in how fast i will get to 60 mph.. Im not looking at it as a whole I'm just looking at speed..Im an idiot.. lol.. Just always double guessing myself... like i said this is the first time i had something like this done.. Well.. second , the first time i changed a complete rear in my Trans AM...I just want to make sure i don't regret changing my stock gears out.. I can't wait till its all done. When I took it into the shop i asked the guy is there anything i needed besides the ring and pinion set and he said no. Its a 7 hour job.. I was wondering about the ring and pinion install kit... that comes with all that good stuff your talking about.. He said the only other thing they will need is probably a bearing that might be pressed on to hold the ring in place or the pinion (one of the two).. he didn't tell me i had to order any seals or any crush sleeve or things like that. He just said that his mechanic is the man for the job and has done a shit load of these in many cars and knows what he is doing. Like i said the shop is a reputable shop in my town.. It isn't a back yard shop with 4 of my uncles working there, drinking beer, and when you pull in to find out whats wrong it,instead of putting a computer on it all four of them start looking under the hood at the same time trying to find the problem. .. I just want to do my homework .. Now I will mention the crush sleeve.. anything else i might need and see what they say.??. I took my car to another shop before this one and the wouldn't touch it.. They said its not something they do.. So hopefully these guys aren't just trying to get a job.. Thanks for all your advice.. the graphs are a big help to get my little brain to understand it better,

[EastWood-SS]

your idle is indeed low. around 750 is normal.

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by Comrando

That is the crush bushing for the pinion. The kits usually include all new bolts and nuts besides the seals and gasket. Shims and marking ink to be sure the pinion is aligned correctly with the ring. Otherwise you will hear a whine.

This is beyond me which is why I would farm it out.

But if you are only going to do it once it is probably worth the cost for new bolts and nuts. ~$100US for the full shebang.

do you have a link where i can get the kit?? or should it be on the yukon site as well??

[daveagogo1]

Originally Posted by Duke

If you get a a chirp, then you are not running Pirelli's. What tire do you have on the rear.

I am still running Pirelli's and they are dead silent. Frankly, I'm tired of the silence.

Huh? I run stock Pirelli and i can blow the tires off and chirp them at 60mph. You're doing it wrong.

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by daveagogo1

Huh? I run stock Pirelli and i can blow the tires off and chirp them at 60mph. You're doing it wrong.

well i have an A6... I can chirp in 1st and second if i had stick,,,

[Tampa Tuning]

Originally Posted by stirrup shifter

For what it's worth....I bought my 2010 SS with the L99 used.....always happy with it but there was a dead spot it acceleration at low speed, and an obvious hesitation at speed due to the AFM......had the master at Tampa Tuning (mentioned many times on this forum) (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197715) do a street tune for me including deleting the AFM......wow.....what a night and day difference. I havecadifferent car now, tire chirping shifts, zero hesitation, and smoking burnouts when I want them, and I am running nearly new P-Zeros. I'd say find a great tuner or take a vacation road trip down to Florida and check this guy out.

KahunaSS,
You have to understand what your car's computer is doing. Althought you may be commanding 100% power, your computer's torque management is staging your torque elevation levels. By that I mean, the computer is not releasing all your commanded power at once. GM stages the power to reduce warranty claims. The stickier the tires, the more stress it causes on the drivetrain. Breaking loose street tires is less stressful than getting traction with drag radial.

Another factor that reduces your power at 100% throttle at take off is negative timing preprogramed into your computer.

Aftermarket calibration will make the vehicle much more fun.

Phil

[daveagogo1]

Originally Posted by KahunaSS

well i have an A6... I can chirp in 1st and second if i had stick,,,

I have an A6 as well. Properly tuned engine & tranny of course. I can nail it at highway speeds on nice blacktop and break loose on the kickdown easily.

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

KahunaSS,
You have to understand what your car's computer is doing. Althought you may be commanding 100% power, your computer's torque management is staging your torque elevation levels. By that I mean, the computer is not releasing all your commanded power at once. GM stages the power to reduce warranty claims. The stickier the tires, the more stress it causes on the drivetrain. Breaking loose street tires is less stressful than getting traction with drag radial.

Another factor that reduces your power at 100% throttle at take off is negative timing preprogramed into your computer.

Aftermarket calibration will make the vehicle much more fun.

Phil

well i am having the gears swapped out for the 3.73's and i also ordered a vmax ported TB.. My buddy at the dealer said if i did the gears that the only thing that wouldn't be under warranty is the rear if it goes because he wouldn't be able to hide the fact it was my fault IF i did something... I also was thinking about installing a 3200 torque convertor.. Can tuning shops tune my car for performance and if i decide to take it into the shop tune it back to stock so i won't void my warranty? thats the biggest thing I'm trying to avoid. if i can get away with just tuning the car and not messing with the rear then i will just tune the damn thing and get it over with,,

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by daveagogo1

I have an A6 as well. Properly tuned engine & tranny of course. I can nail it at highway speeds on nice blacktop and break loose on the kickdown easily.

is that all you did was give it a good tune??

[KahunaSS]

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

KahunaSS,
You have to understand what your car's computer is doing. Althought you may be commanding 100% power, your computer's torque management is staging your torque elevation levels. By that I mean, the computer is not releasing all your commanded power at once. GM stages the power to reduce warranty claims. The stickier the tires, the more stress it causes on the drivetrain. Breaking loose street tires is less stressful than getting traction with drag radial.

Another factor that reduces your power at 100% throttle at take off is negative timing preprogramed into your computer.

Aftermarket calibration will make the vehicle much more fun.

Phil

So you think i would benefit from a tune better than a gear swap? i gave it a tune up changed the wires and plugs and did a fuse pull and the car does seem to run slightly better. So I'm wondering would i get what i want from a performance tune or should i just go for the gear swap or the performance tune? i already have the gears ordered but maybe i can tune the car first and see if i get the results i want .. What do you think.. I get great feedback on here.. Thanks everybody.