Oil Life, Time to Change?

[18LTLoveIt]

Hi, My Oil life says 51 and the last time I had it changed was May 2016. How long do you wait for your Camaro?

[Synner]

You should change it once per year regardless of the OLM due to contaminants that build up in the oil over time.

[Welker2]

I change mine when the oil life gets between 25%-30% or one year, which ever comes first. Per the Owners Manual, the oil and oil filter need to be changed at least yearly.

[Harourepy]

well, i change mine at around 8000 or so. but regardless whether i've made the 8000 or not, you still need to change oil at least once a year if you don't want to start searching for online pharmacy for your baby if you want to keep her healthy, change the oil as often as possible.

[18LTLoveIt]

Thanks guys! My Camaro is stored 6 months per year with monthly spins to keep a/c in line. The car has had 3 oil changes since new. Original owner once at 5300 mi, reselling dealer, at 10,500 miles. I changed it at 12,400 and now it's at 14,740. I'm interested in keeping in tip top shape so I'll get it done next weekend.

[shibbs]

I don't drive mine much, but I change it at 50% or a year, whichever comes first.

[redcoats1976]

every 5,000 miles.its cheap insurance.that makes it 2-3 times a year for me.

[Moto-Mojo]

This is a 2013 post from a Corvette forum on the net. I don't know this guy but I believe he's a chemical engineer. It's more specifically related to zinc content in motor oil but he breaks it out by product. A LONG read but very informative. I searched and didn't see where it was posted here. Seemed as good a place as any to post:

• A few words before getting into the oil test data. Most Forum members have understood and appreciated the oil test data I've posted over the last year and a half or so. But, there were always some who could not accept my results that showed high zinc levels were not always something that could be counted on for superior wear protection. So, there was a lot of hostility over that. And honestly, I can understand why some folks might have a problem with my data showing that. Because for the past couple of decades, the whole Hotrod and Racing Industry did nothing but promote how wonderful high zinc levels were, which may well have been true many years ago when zinc levels first began getting significantly reduced in API certified oils. Therefore, reluctance to accept a wholesale change in thinking is not surprising, even though there are much better alternatives used in low zinc API certified oils nowadays.
  
  The folks who could not accept my data, also seemed to get the wrong idea about it. If the oilthey preferred did not rank very high on my list, and they had never had a problem using it, I never said they needed to stop using it. If they had good success with what they use, that meant they were not exceeding the capability of that oil. As long as they continued to stay below that oil’s capability limit, they would never have a problem. But, if they wanted to choose a better oil, for extra wear protection insurance, all they had to do was look at my ranking list and choose a higher ranked oil. In spite of any previous skepticism regarding my testing, we should now be able to put those issues behind us, and move forward on common ground, as one group on the same page. Here's why:
  
  I'm a total perfectionist when it comes to technical matters. I'm a working Professional Degreed Engineer, as well as a U.S. Patent holder, who deals with technical matters for a living. Those who know me personally, know that I would never jeopardize my reputation or my integrity, by posting data that would turn the Hobby/Industry on its ear, unless I was absolutely sure about the data I put out there. And for the record, I do not, and never have, used a one armed bandit tester to perform any motor oil testing. The test results I post are not my opinion, and they are not my theory. They are the actual facts that came out of the Physics and Chemistry involved in the real world testing I perform, at a representative operational temperature of 230*F. Of course I've always known my carefully generated data was completely accurate, but now my data has been validated by a total of three other independent Industry sources. They are as follows:
  
  1. Well known and respected Engineer and Tech Author David Vizard, whose own test data, largely based on real world engine dyno testing, has concluded that more zinc can be damaging, more zinc does not provide today's best wear protection, and that using zinc as the primary anti-wear component, is outdated technology.
  
  2. The GM Oil Report titled, "Oil Myths from GMTechlink", concluded that high levels of zinc are damaging and that more zinc does not provide more wear protection.
  
  3. A motor oil research article written by Ed Hackett titled, "More than you ever wanted to know about Motor Oil", concluded that more zinc does not provide more wear protection, it only provides longer wear protection.
  
  Those familiar with the test data I post, know that my testing came up with the exact same results stated by all three of those independent sources. This is an example where wear testing using an oil tester, engine dyno testing and proper motoroil research using only the facts, from four independent sources, all converged to agree and come to the same exact conclusion. Back-up validation proof, doesn't get any better than this, in the world we live in. In fact, in most cases in the Hotrod and Racing Industry, if you ask 10 people a question, you will get 10 different answers.
  
  So, with all those sources in total agreement, that should provide more than adequate proof to anyone who questioned my test data, that the posts I make about motor oil testing, are absolutely correct. And that questioning one of them, questions them all. So hopefully, we can leave all the arguments behind, and as we go forward, engage in respectful motor oildiscussions, which we all have an interest in.
  
  Now, on with the oil data that is the subject of this posting. Synthetic 10W30 Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil, is the latest high zinc oil I've tested. Here is the Lab Test data that came back from Professional Lab, ALS Tribology in Sparks, Nevada:
  
  Amsoil 10W30 Dominator Racing Oil synthetic (lab tested 2013)
  Silicon = 3 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
  Boron = 15 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
  Magnesium = 10 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
  Calcium = 1661 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
  Barium = 0 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
  Zinc = 1613 ppm (anti-wear)
  Phos = 1394 ppm (anti-wear)
  Moly = 0 ppm (anti-wear)
  Potassium = 4 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
  Sodium = 0 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
  TBN = 6.5 (Total Base Number) This is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9.
  Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 11.6 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.
  
  My testing showed that the onset of thermal breakdown for this oil was approximately 300*F, which tied for the highest value I've found in all the oils I've tested for the onset of thermal breakdown. The oils that had an onset of thermal breakdown value that high, have always been Amsoil products, in my testing.
  
  My "Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load", which determines the specific wear protection limit of an oil by testing its "Load Carrying Capacity/Film Strength", found that this oil was capable of producing a very impressive 97,118 psi. This puts it in the OUTSTANDING WEAR PROTECTION category, and makes it one of the best high zinc oils I've tested. Below is how it ranked among the other high zinc (over 1100 ppm) oils I've tested.
  
  
  Wear protection reference categories are:
  
  *** Over 90,000 psi = OUTSTANDING protection
  
  *** 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD protection
  
  *** 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST protection
  
  *** Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIREABLE
  
  The higher the psi number, the better the wear protection.
  
  1. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only synthetic = 106,505 psi
  zinc = 2642 ppm
  phos = 3489 ppm
  ZDDP= 3000 ppm
  NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.
  
  2. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
  zinc = 1669 ppm
  phos = 1518 ppm
  ZDDP = 1500 ppm
  NOTE: Due to its very low TBN value, this oil is only suitable for short term racing use, and is not suitable for street use.
  
  3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil(silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
  zinc = 1472 ppm
  phos = 1544 ppm
  ZDDP = 1500 ppm
  
  4. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
  zinc = 1180 ppm
  phos = 1112 ppm
  ZDDP = 1100 ppm
  
  5. 10W30 Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil synthetic = 97,118 psi
  zinc = 1613 ppm
  phos = 1394 ppm
  ZDDP = 1500 ppm
  
  6. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil synthetic = 96,470 psi
  zinc = 2207 ppm
  phos = 2052 ppm
  ZDDP = 2100 ppm
  NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.
  
  7. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil synthetic = 95,360 psi
  zinc = 1431 ppm
  phos = 1441 ppm
  ZDDP = 1400 ppm
  
  8. 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL semi-synthetic = 90,226 psi
  zinc = 1221 ppm
  phos = 955 ppm
  ZDDP = 1000 ppm
  
  9. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil synthetic = 86,270 psi
  zinc = 1247 ppm
  phos = 1137 ppm
  ZDDP = 1100 ppm
  
  10. 15W40 RED LINE Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4/CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CF/CH-4/CF-4/SM/SL/SH/EO-O = 85,663 psi
  zinc = 1615 ppm
  phos = 1551 ppm
  ZDDP = 1500 ppm
  
  11. 5W30 Lucas API SM synthetic = 76,584 psi
  zinc = 1134 ppm
  phos = 666 ppm
  ZDDP = 900 ppm
  
  12. 5W50 Castrol Edge with Syntec API SN, synthetic, formerly Castrol Syntec, black bottle = 75,409 psi
  zinc = 1252 ppm
  phos = 1197 ppm
  ZDDP = 1200 ppm
  
  13. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) synthetic = 74,860 psi
  zinc = 1421 ppm
  phos = 1338 ppm
  ZDDP = 1300 ppm
  
  14. 5W40 MOBIL 1 TURBO DIESEL TRUCK synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4 and ACEA E7 = 74,312 psi
  zinc = 1211 ppm
  phos = 1168 ppm
  ZDDP = 1100 ppm
  
  15. 15W40 CHEVRON DELO 400LE Diesel Oil, conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM, = 73,520 psi
  zinc = 1519 ppm
  phos = 1139 ppm
  ZDDP = 1300 ppm
  
  16. 15W40 MOBIL DELVAC 1300 SUPER Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4/SM, SL = 73,300 psi
  zinc = 1297 ppm
  phos = 1944 ppm
  ZDDP = 1600 ppm
  
  17. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ (conventional) = 73,176 psi
  zinc = 1325ppm
  phos = 1234 ppm
  ZDDP = 1200 ppm
  
  18. 15W40 “NEW” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oilconventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM = 72,022 psi
  zinc = 1454 ppm
  phos = 1062 ppm
  ZDDP = 1200 ppm
  Yes it true, this new Rotella does in fact have more zinc than the old Rotella.
  
  19. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi
  zinc = 1621 ppm
  phos = 1437 ppm
  ZDDP = 1500 ppm
  
  20. 15W40 “OLD” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oilconventional, API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4,CG-4,CF-4,CF,SL, SJ, SH = 71,214 psi
  zinc = 1171 ppm
  phos = 1186 ppm
  ZDDP = 1100 ppm
  
  21. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi
  zinc = 1557 ppm
  phos = 1651 ppm
  ZDDP = 1600 ppm
  
  22. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 70,235 psi
  zinc = 1133 ppm
  phos = 1,168 ppm
  ZDDP = 1100 ppm
  
  23. 30wt Edelbrock Break-In Oil conventional = 69,160 psi
  zinc = 1545 ppm
  phos = 1465 ppm
  ZDDP = 1500 ppm
  
  24. 10W40 Edelbrock synthetic = 68,603 psi
  zinc = 1193 ppm
  phos = 1146 ppm
  ZDDP = 1100 ppm
  
  25. 15W40 LUCAS MAGNUM Diesel Oil, conventional, API CI-4,CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SL = 66,476 psi
  zinc = 1441 ppm
  phos = 1234 ppm
  ZDDP = 1300 ppm
  
  26. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) synthetic = 66,211 psi
  zinc = 1774 ppm
  phos = 1347 ppm
  ZDDP = 1500 ppm
  
  27. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oilconventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi
  zinc = 1154 ppm
  phos = 1075 ppm
  ZDDP = 1100 ppm
  
  28. 5W30 Klotz Estorlin Racing Oil, API SL synthetic = 64,175 psi
  zinc = 1765 ppm
  phos = 2468 ppm
  ZDDP = 2100 ppm
  
  29. “ZDDPlus” added to Royal Purple 20W50, API SN, synthetic = 63,595 psi
  zinc = 2436 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
  phos = 2053 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
  ZDDP = 2200 ppm
  The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 24% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Most major Oil Companies say to NEVER add anything to their oils, because adding anything will upset the carefully balanced additive package, and ruin the oil’s chemical composition. And that is precisely what we see here. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.
  
  30. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oilconventional = 62,931 psi
  zinc = 1170 ppm
  phos = 1039 ppm
  ZDDP = 1100 ppm
  
  31. 10W30 Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Hi-Performance Oil, conventional = 62,538 psi
  zinc = 2116 ppm
  phos = 1855 ppm
  ZDDP = 1900 ppm
  
  32. 10W30 Comp Cams Muscle Car & Street Rod Oil, synthetic blend = 60,413 psi
  zinc = 1673 ppm
  phos = 1114 ppm
  ZDDP = 1300 ppm
  
  33. 10W40 Torco TR-1 Racing Oil with MPZ conventional = 59,905 psi
  zinc = 1456 ppm
  phos = 1150 ppm
  ZDDP = 1300 ppm
  
  34. “ZDDPlus” added to O’Reilly (house brand) 5W30, API SN, conventional = 56,728 psi
  zinc = 2711 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
  phos = 2172 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
  ZDDP = 2400 ppm
  The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 38% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.
  
  35. 10W40 Summit Racing Premium Racing Oil, API SL conventional = 59,483 psi
  zinc = 1764 ppm
  phos = 1974 ppm
  Claimed ZDDP level on the bottle = 1800 ppm
  NOTE: Summit discontinued this line of oil, as of spring of 2013.
  
  36. “ZDDPlus” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 56,243 psi
  zinc = 2955 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
  phos = 2114 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
  ZDDP = 2500 ppm
  The amount of ZDDPlus added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 12% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.
  
  37. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Royal Purple 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 54,044 psi
  zinc = 1515 ppm (up 573 ppm)
  phos = 1334 ppm (up 517 ppm)
  ZDDP = 1400 ppm
  The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was a whopping 36% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.
  
  38. 10W30 Comp Cams Break-In Oilconventional = 51,749 psi
  zinc = 3004 ppm
  phos = 2613 ppm
  ZDDP = 2800 ppm
  
  39. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Lucas 5W30, API SN, conventional = 51,545 psi
  zinc = 1565 ppm (up 573 ppm)
  phos = 1277 ppm (up 517 ppm)
  ZDDP = 1400 ppm
  The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was a “breath taking” 44% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.
  
  40. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 50,202 psi
  zinc = 1680 ppm (up 573 ppm)
  phos = 1275 ppm (up 517 ppm)
  ZDDP = 1400 ppm
  The amount of Edelbrock Zinc Additive added to the oil, was the exact amount the manufacturer called for on the bottle. And the resulting psi value here was 22% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.
  
  41. 30wt Lucas Break-In Oil conventional = 49,455 psi
  zinc = 4483 ppm
  phos = 3660 ppm
  ZDDP = 4000 ppm
  
  What's far more important than this 41 high zinc oil ranking list, is the entire 97 oil ranking that you can see, along with additional motor oil tech info at:
  
  http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
  
  And here are some trends that you will see in that entire 97 oil ranking list:
  
  • Synthetic oils rank between number 1 and number 96.
  
  • Conventional oils rank between number 6 and number 97.
  
  • Since the ranking of synthetic oils and conventional oils completely overlap, there is no clear distinction between their wear protection capabilities.
  
  • High zinc oils rank between number 3 and number 97, which very clearly shows that simply having a high level of zinc is no guarantee of superior wear protection.
  
  • Low zinc oils rank between number 1 and number 74.
  
  • Since the low zinc oils and the high zinc oils completely overlap, you can see that zinc does not play the primary role in determining an oil’s wear protection capability. An oil’s wear protection capability is determined by its base oiland its additive package “as a whole”, with the primary emphasis on the additive package, which contains the extreme pressure components. And modern alternate extreme pressure components are equal to, or better than zinc.
  
  • Diesel oils rank between number 43 and number 78. The poor performance of these Diesel oils makes it very clear that they are a poor choice for High Performance gas engines.
  
  • Break-In oils rank between number 73 and number 97. If you are looking for wear protection during break-in, you will be disappointed with these oils. Because they are NOT formulated to prevent wear, they are formulated to allow the parts to quickly “wear in”, which is totally unnecessary. You cannot stop parts from wearing-in on their own, no matter what oil you run. And we’ve seen that for many years with factory filled synthetic Mobil 1 in countless thousands of brand new factory vehicles, that always break-in just fine. That makes break-in oils little more than snake oil. Buyer beware.
  
  • 20 wt oils rank between number 12 and 90.
  
  • 30 wt oils rank between number 1 and 97.
  
  • 40 wt oils rank between number 43 and 89.
  
  • 50 wt oils rank between number 7 and 82.
  
  So, as you can see, oil viscosity plays no particular role in an oil’s wear protection capability. As mentioned above, an oil’s wear protection capability is determined by its base oiland its additive package “as a whole”, with the primary emphasis on the additive package, which contains the extreme pressure components.
  
  540 RAT
  
  Member SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers)</SPAN>

[sherob]

Moto-Mojo... that post has since been updated here on 8/2017... https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Mobil1 5w30 is still the cheeze, and available virtually anywhere for a great price...

"And we’ve seen that for many years with factory filled synthetic 5W30 Mobil 1 (which is one of the top ranked oils regarding wear protection capability) in countless thousands of brand new vehicles, that always break-in their components and seal their rings just fine."

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by sherob

Moto-Mojo... that post has since been updated here on 8/2017... https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Mobil1 5w30 is still the cheeze, and available virtually anywhere for a great price...

"And we’ve seen that for many years with factory filled synthetic 5W30 Mobil 1 (which is one of the top ranked oils regarding wear protection capability) in countless thousands of brand new vehicles, that always break-in their components and seal their rings just fine."

Thanks. And I thought the first one was long! Good to know, I broke in my 2015 with Mobil 1.

[christianchevell]

For a Chemical engineer he sure shows he is not a mechanical engineer...LOL I don't use amsoil and a 10000 mile oil change because the crap in the oil hurts....I use driven racing oil formulated for a LS engine with long lasting zddp oil levels , and anti foam and good sheer and MPAO that is a full synthetic.... SO of his list; of course the conventionals that get changed by 3000 miles are going to be lower zddp, and of course the break in oil which thrown out after running for thirty minutes are going to be lower....

Zinc hurts cats...thus even new standards are out for messing with oil standards this year for all the four banger turbos running 0w-10 friggin oil , this is in the tech bulletins in driven racings site trying to inform just like the CAFE standard crap that got a minor reprieve from our not electing a Liberal...so yes don't buy the wrong standard grade as you may find you have like 10 PPM zinc in the wrong oil and you trash the engine, if your a old hot rodder like me you have to look and stand by a specific higher zinc oil and make sure it does not get changed for you SBC/BBC or any other older engine as things have gone to crap thanks to the EPA liberal agenda as far as oil goes...

'There was a good comparison done by AMSOIL paying a lab to do up a comparison of 5/w30 synthetic oils and its one I have posted over and over, AMSOIL is good, and longevity is good with it yet I do not use it I change my oil before the 5,000 miles with full synthetic because the harder you drive the more you deplete the ZDDP in the oil and the more crap gets in it from Carbon formations so I do not want to drag crap over my bearing surfaces and bores by having oil last until the cows come hone and praying the filter does the job good enough...they do make specific filters if your buying WIX like most in the know do for synthetic oils...that's a no brainer...pay a little more, get a better filter.

As far as this persons opinion on break in oils you might as well forget anything said by anyone in motorsports since driving began or anyone who ever broke in a old motor and he should have STFU because its ignorance totally and unequivocally ignorance.

SO anyone watch some old Fast and loud and remember the Shelby Hertz Mustang 2 part episode build where they used a conventional oil and a zddp additive to help the oil and it ate the cam right away in ten minutes and they had to rebuild the entire engine again and use some Driven racing break in oil???? I sure do, you see I am a old guy who rebuilt many of his own engines putting them together after machining.

Sure you can dream that any oil does the same job as others for break in, and it may do a fair job with any oil if its just a break in establishing a good layer of ZDDP to sacrifice itself while wear patterns are established..or you may get one where the ZDDP does not bond well to the oil itself such as the case with GAS MONKEY...
Then there is the Ignorance that says because you have a roller you don't need to do a break in...believe me before you got your engine it was broken in as a engine....Sure put in much higher lift higher spring pressure stuff and race the LS motor and if your smart your doing oil changes long before due and using the best you can find...

And if you think the best you can find is Mobil one think again......From BTW another AMSOIL done up study...... And unless you change out as most in the know do even the oil its comes with in the new Camaro at 1500 miles for its staying clean and cleaning out crap from the machining its not very wise as shown where....On here...Camaro 5.

As wise old man once said: Opinions are like assholes; be wise and safe and for god sakes cover your own ass.....Oh that was me; a Disabled infantry vet who does maintenance/full Carpentry teaching inmates to landscape, frame, finish walls, ceilings, concrete, asphalt , roof , flooring, etc etc etc etc and works in a maximum security prison with butt hole big egos former military and not bozos and the dregs of society that can F up anything......

SO for you all: use 5w30 or void the warranty immediately and if the dealer knows your screwed, or go thick and starve the top end and destroy your engine, or don't do break in oil changes even if your not using the best and run crap through your engine all you want.....I will see you on the side of the road with the FORD's....LOL Our oiling system is made for 5w30...Specifically.....And sometime soon everyone will know what MPAO is and how it relates as its in my Ls30 oil .... here if that long comparison of different grades did not bore you this is much shorted and sweeter and has things like wear and sludge and other comparisons and shows well...Mobil one does not do so well, hell I would use the Ultra Pennsoil before it or platinum or what ever it said....

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G3115.pdf

OH looks like the Mobil one extended performance...even better than what the dexos blend is most likely is...what...bad on wear and sludge as in really bad on wear...OMG...

And so you all know: US OLD HOT RODDERS AND THE WHOLE OF THE AFTERMARKET RACING MANUFACTURERS AND RACING COMMUNITY AND MAKERS OF AUTOS KNOW THAT EACH INDIVIDUAL ENGINE IN EACH CAR IS GOING TO MORE THAN EVER IN THE FUTURE NOT HAVE ONE SIZE FITS ALL OIL...AND ITS ONLY GETS MORE SPECIFIC IN THE FUTURE PER THE MANUFACTURERS FOR EACH ENGINE FOR THAT SPECIFIC CAR, AND THATS THE FACT JACK.

Alter that engine and use the best info you can get, me I use these guys since well they are recommended by god and joe dirt and the makers of our rings and oil pumps and cams and bearings and....... http://www.drivenracingoil.com/

And the reason I spend so much time doing this is I own stock in Driven.....ROFL no , Its because I care enough being a old motorhead to know I could save a engine or two so we don't have to read about them here.....the guy who used his car,( Camaro), and never changed oil for five years because he had amsoil...and it was full of moisture sitting in his crank case and he only drove it a couple thousand miles a year....well that's tomorrows classic screwed up by someone being lazy, cheap or uninformed. Sure you may want 10k from a 24/7 operated engine on a truck for servicing rail road tracks as far as a oil change..me I will make sure its done yearly or at about 4k with full synthetic and it looks dirty enough for me...and I know I am hard on it. And that's my morning battling rant.....LOL Thank God he spared my fingers......

See I can copy and paste also....LOL

The New GF-6 Standard
Tailoring Engine Lubricants Is Critical To Performance Output
With broad changes coming to vehicle emissions and fuel consumption standards in 2017, including an average annual efficiency improvement of five percent per year scheduled until 2025, the design of every part of a vehicle is soon to be challenged. By 2025 EPA/NHTSA standards will require passenger cars to achieve 54.5 mpg, while for trucks the ideal target is in the high 30s.These changes will test fluids and oils as well as hard parts, and the lubricant industry is working to achieve the necessary gains with a proposed move to what is known as the GF-6 standard.
Developed by the International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), the GF-6 standard anticipates that tomorrow’s lubricant demands will be entirely different from what’s commonplace today. The engines of the future will be downsized, turbocharged and much more highly stressed. The GF-6 specification is intended to increase fuel economy, enhance oil robustness, expand overall fuel efficiency, improve protection and reduce motor oil aeration in these power plants.
To meet the goals of GF-6, many car manufacturers have been experimenting with lower viscosity grade motor oils, as lower engine oil viscosity significantly reduces engine friction. A lower viscosity oil equals less resistance and thus improves fuel economy. Friction reduction through improved oil technology will have the greatest impact on these areas of the engine: the crankshaft bearings, the piston ring area, the cam-valve interface and the cam drive itself. Within these components, the crucial oil performance aspect is the film-forming ability in the sliding areas.
Deposit control will also be important element of GF-6, along with protection against low-speed pre-ignition and cam chain wear.
Another key component of the GF-6 specification is the provision for two separate ratings. GF-6A is backward compatible, while GF-6B will not be backward compatible for older applications and will feature an entirely new formulation. In addition to GF-6B’s lower viscosity, a unique balance of additives, viscosity modifiers and base oils will work with new and unique engine designs to maximize fuel economy.
Key tests are being conducted within the industry to help determine the final specification of all GF-6 formulas. These tests include: high temperature/high load, valve operating system, low temperature deterioration and fuel economy performance. Current testing has shown no noticeable differences in wear between a reference SAE OW-20 and an experimental SAE OW-16. Results have proven that that the lower viscosity oil will demonstrate equivalent or superior engine protection in engine and bench tests, yet also return improved fuel economy. Even lower grades –such as 12, 8 and 4—are being investigated around the lubricant industry as well.
However, performance enthusiasts need to be aware of these GF-6 formulas and the demands on them in the future. While these oil upgrades are good for the most current production engines in stock trim, this does not make them an upgrade for older or highly modified production engines. The more the GF-6 oils are tailored to the needs of fuel efficient and lower emission passenger car engines, the less appropriate they will be for older and high performance ones.
The reason is that all oils are application-specific. To get better performance from a lubricant, it must be tailored to the specific application it is being used for. In turn, that lubricant is less appropriate for other applications. In general, the days of “one-size-fits-all” motor oils and lubricants are ending as new standards like GF-6 become the norm. Motor oils today are more application-specific than they were 20 years ago, and will only get more specific over the next 20 years. The result is that GF-6 oils will be designed for late model vehicles, but older hot rods and muscle cars, which will not need to adhere to the new standards, run the risk of being left behind. In addition, flat tappet engines will no longer be used in any GF-6 testing.
Advanced lubricants that are the result of GF-6 will be essential in paving the way for the next generation engines that will come out of the ambitious emissions requirements for 2017-2025 model years. However, these lubricants will be more costly and formulated differently than the motor oils we know today. Yet by eliminating the backward compatibility requirement, GF-6B will also be able to offer advanced lubrication solutions for tomorrow’s sophisticated engines.
At the same time, GF-6 will not affect Driven Racing Oil products as the company does not believe that API and ILSAC testing in modern engines provide representative performance for older or high performance racing engines. As a result, Driven will continue to produce its own application-specific-formula lubricants for performance engines, classic vehicles and race cars.
The GF-6 upgrade is aimed for 2017 model year vehicles, which is the point where the fuel efficiency curve begins to rise most steeply.


And do it repeatedly also!!! LOL

GM LS Hydraulic Roller Cam Bulletin
Attn:*GM LS Engine*Owners
Re:*Hydraulic Roller Cam & Lifter Failures Due To Improper Lubrication
As the marketplace stretches the power levels of the popular GM LS platform (especially in power adder applications), a marked increase is being seen in hydraulic roller cam lobe deterioration, along with lifter wheel and needle bearing failures. The root issue of this problem is a general lack of understanding about the lubrication needs of this engine platform.
Customers often do not consider the need for either a break-in oil or application specific formula due to the fact that their application utilizes a hydraulic roller cam. Since these LS engines are primarily for street/strip use, a typical customer may use a conventional 20W-50 “Racing Oil” or a similar off-the-shelf lubricant. The engines are thus not broken in with specialized break-in oil, meaning that the proper foundation for valve train durability is never established.
As street applications featuring the LS engine are not typically warmed up before driving, the heavy weight oil (such as 20W-50) is slower in flowing to the hydraulic roller lifters. The result is a lack of adequate lubrication. The LS platform pump and oiling system is designed for 5W-30 viscosity grade oil, so using heavier weight oil actually reduces lubrication and often leads to rapid valve train failure.
Driven Racing Oil™ recommends using*BR30 Break-In Oil*and*LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil*as a two-part solution to this growing problem.
By utilizing the BR30 Break-In Oil, the proper additive foundation will be introduced into the engine. This is accomplished first by breaking in the LS engine for 30 minutes to one hour much like a customer with a flat tappet valve train would. The customer should then drain the oil and change the filter, install a fresh fill of BR30 and continue to break-in the engine for the next 500 miles.
Due to the use of hydraulic lifters in these engines, it is critical that the oil be changed after break-in to remove the metal particulate created during the process. If these small particles are allowed to stay in the oil system for thousands of miles serious damage will occur.
After the break-in steps are complete, it is time to install the LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil, which is a properly formulated 5W-30 motor oil designed specifically for GM LS-based engines. The LS30 oil features mPAO synthetic base oil technology that increases High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) bearing oil film thickness, so the oil flows like a 5W-30 but protects like a 15W-40.
This innovative technology enables LS30 to provide the required viscosity for the LS oiling system and deliver the added protection required for higher lift cams and hydraulic roller lifters.
This two-step lubrication process provides the proper viscosity and additive chemistry for the unique requirements of modified GM LS engines with hydraulic roller valve trains. Properly completing this sequence of steps utilizing both the Driven BR30 Break-In Oil and LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil will establish the proper anti-wear film in the engine, remove harmful break-in particles and provide excellent ring sealing.

And some Mumbo Jumbo about something called MPAO everyone will come to know just like ZDDP and shear.....? hopefully

High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) Bulletin
Attn:*Classic, Muscle & Race Car Owners
Re:*The Latest Government Oil Standards Are A Major Concern For Classic, Muscle & Race Car Owners, Especially Those Currently Using Diesel Oils In Their Gasoline Engines
New government regulations requiring auto manufacturers to meet ever-increasing fuel mileage minimums are forcing changes in areas that can affect the mechanical health of your classic or project car. And worse yet, no one is stepping up to tell you about these changes.
One major change you should be aware of is what’s going into the motor oils you may have trusted for years. New API requirements the oil manufacturers must meet are designed for new vehicles. But modern engines with full roller valvetrains have very different lubrication requirements than a muscle car engine. Modern engines can be engineered specifically to work with these new oils, but if your engine wasn’t built to these new specs, you’re essentially left out in the cold.
Even if the bottle of oil you’ve been using says it has the same viscosity, chances are it now has a lower High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) viscosity. Although it’s related, HTHS isn’t the same as a standard viscosity rating. HTHS is a measure of how well oil protects in the toughest environments your engine creates – areas where the temperature is highest and the friction is the greatest. Lower HTHS viscosity generally means a thinner oil which can improve fuel economy by reducing the amount of horsepower required to pump it throughout the engine. But a lower HTHS viscosity also usually comes at the expense of wear protection.
Motor oils with a low HTHS can help provide a small improvement in fuel economy in engines. But when it comes to protection for high-horsepower engines or classic engines with flat tappet valvetrains, that increase may not be worth it. After all, who cares if you are improving your fuel mileage if the oil you are using is slowly destroying your expensive engine? Many owners of classic cars, muscle cars and race cars will be forced to choose a power-robbing, higher-viscosity oil just to provide a minimal level of protection.
And the situation is only going to get worse. For example, for years many hot rodders have used diesel motor oils as both a break-in and everyday oil for their performance engines because the diesel engines still contained the high levels of ZDDP in the additive packages that also work well in muscle car engines. But that’s all changed, and there is even a new API heavy-duty diesel engine oil category that is currently under development for 2016 which will reduce the HTHS – and the usefulness of these oils for hot rodders – even further. Diesel motor oils used to be a convenient and cheap resource for a break-in oil, but that’s simply no longer true. Because of API changes, these oils are no longer capable of reliably protecting engine components during the critical break-in process.
But that doesn’t mean all is lost. In fact, you may not even be forced to choose between a high-viscosity oil for proper protection and low viscosity for good power production. Driven Racing Oil™ has made a major technological leap by becoming the only motor oil provider that is using a new synthetic base oil in all of its blends.
The new base stock is called mPAO, and it is literally a next-generation lubricant. The name is a lot of scientific mumbo jumbo that most of us don’t care about, but what this stuff does will impress anybody that understands the difference between pistons and petunias. By using an mPAO base for creating its performance lubricants, Driven is able to create a lightweight motor oil that still has a high HTHS viscosity to give you the best of both worlds. The science of how mPAO works goes all the way down to the shape of the molecules, but the result is an oil that’s less sensitive to heat, doesn’t break down under extreme friction and just plain works better.
Consider that lubrication scientists use something called a “viscosity index” to compare the quality of different base oils. The index is based on Pennsylvania Crude, which is the highest quality conventional oil you can drill for. PA Crude has a viscosity index of 100, and other conventional oils fall somewhere below that. Until now, the very best synthetic base oil has been PAO, which is quite a bit better than any conventional oil. Its viscosity index is 140. Now that you know that, you can get an idea of exactly how much more promise mPAO holds with a viscosity index that’s an incredible 200!
What all this means is that in order for other oils to even approach the protection provided by Driven’s new mPOA-based oils, they will have to add other chemicals, known viscosity index modifiers. These break down over time as they are subjected to heat and friction. But since mPAO is the base stock the oil is created from, it won’t degrade over time and provides the same protection after 5,000 miles or 5,000 laps as is did right out of the bottle.
Driven is currently the only oil manufacturer that offers this next-generation mPAO base in its oils. There is only one laboratory producing this specific material and Driven purchased the first batch. Every Driven synthetic oil already contains the new mPAO base oil, and Driven will continue to buy and blend mPAO base oils as future batches are made of this new material.
Even when a greater supply of mPAO becomes available, it’s unrealistic that any other manufacturers will begin using it anytime soon. The big oil manufacturers have already completed their formulations to meet the API criteria that just came out in 2011. Switching from PAO, or any other base stock, to mPAO would require re-certifying to the API standard, and no manufacturer will be willing to spend the money necessary to do that until the next round of API standards comes out in 2016.
The proof of Driven’s commitment to superior quality comes from the fact that while many companies selling so-called performance oils say their stuff is the best, only Driven Racing Oil puts the very same oil it sells to you in every Joe Gibbs Racing NASCAR Sprint Cup Series race car. And there’s no bait-and-switch common with many of the sponsors who provide their race teams with specially blended lubricants not available to the general public. In NASCAR Sprint Cup Series racing, performance is the only thing that matters because the difference in one position in the final standings can mean millions of dollars–so you’d better believe no short cuts are taken in the production of this high-grade motor oil. Joe Gibbs Racing spent more than $1,000,000 on engine parts developing Driven Racing Oil – a small price to pay to help win seven NASCAR championships.
Winning championships at the highest levels of motorsports is the primary goal of Driven Racing Oil, so while other brands may claim to be performance oils, only Driven backs it up by actually racing the same stuff you can buy on the ultimate proving ground – the race track.

[sherob]

Glad I found my trusty...



... to help me out with that!

[Moto-Mojo]

A study done by Amoil and they 'rank first in 4 of the 6 comparisons.' Shocker! I used Amsoil for years and was a dealer...so I could buy it right. But I too am old enough to know that any company with any self worth is not going to publish a study showing how their competition is better overall. It's just not how you do business.

I know Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic but it came down to logistics and economics with me. I could go buy M1 on a whim rather than order and wait on Amsoil. If it were on the shelf at the parts store down the street, I'd buy it. But it's not.

[sherob]

I use Mobil1 in everything I own, and have been for years... from my bikes running 10w50 in the Texas heat, to my cars running 5w30 in cold Colorado. I can go in to any Wally World or auto parts store and pick it up off the shelf in 5 gallon jugs.

Now a days, brand oil is pretty much brand oil... changing it is what matters, and maintenance of your vehicle is King.

Hell, my Dad's 73 Super Beetle Convertible w/ over 300k miles has only seen Quaker State Dino in it.

It's you vehicle, your dollar, and your... well, opinion that matters. Do what you want.