08-25-2020, 08:27 AM | #71 |
Hey guys, very first post in this forum. I purchased a 2018 Camaro SS last year and developed a "tick" in the front when turning. With the wealth of information in this thread I was able to resolve my issue without much stress. My particular issue was the wheel torque, while not real loose they were not at the proper torque specs. Now, no tick, problem resolved. Thank you!
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08-25-2020, 08:59 AM | #72 | |
Drives: '18 1SS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 2,571
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Quote:
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'18 1SS 1LE Black, PDR
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08-26-2020, 04:14 PM | #73 |
03-25-2022, 09:20 AM | #74 | |
Drives: 2018 1SS 1LE & 1973 Datsun 240Z Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 574
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Quote:
Just saw this now. The hub pilot isn't what supports the load. It's the friction between the wheel and hub (or brake rotor hat to be precise) mating surfaces generated by the clamping force of the lug nuts. So any corrosion on the pilot is not relevant to this issue. If there's insufficient friction between the wheel and the hub, then the wheel will shift around and strike the pilot, which is what causes the clicking noise. I could see impact marks on the pilots before I removed all the grease from the mating surfaces. If applying grease makes the noise go away, it's either because it's now slipping more easily, or the grease used happens to have a higher coefficient of friction than whatever it was GM used. |
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03-26-2022, 01:18 PM | #75 |
Drives: '18 1SS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 2,571
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At near 50,000 miles now.
Never applied any more grease, just made sure they were torqued properly each time, no noises. That's why I mentioned the torque in the previous post, as that seemed the root cause.
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'18 1SS 1LE Black, PDR
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03-29-2022, 05:53 PM | #76 |
Drives: 2017 Blue Camaro 1SS 1LE with PDR Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 962
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I was getting the ticking noise while turning a few years ago at an autocross and one of the course workers came up to me and mentioned it afterwards. I had definitely torqued all of my lug nuts to 140 ft-lbs myself beforehand and still had the issue. Running a drill wire wheel attachment on the rotor hats and backs of the wheels where they mate to the rotor hat solved the issue for me. So I guess there are multiple possible causes. I repeat this around once per year as a preventative measure so that the clicking noise doesn't return but most of the time I didn't notice the clicking noise anyways due to the wind noise from driving with the windows down and the exhaust noise.
I never applied any grease or anti-seize. The local Discount Tire does this by default for all cars (except using air tools instead of electric) whenever they remove wheels from a car. |
03-29-2022, 09:00 PM | #77 |
Who Needs to KNOW?
Drives: 18 ZLE Join Date: May 2018
Location: Left Side of the Moon
Posts: 1,771
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Probably doesn't make difference, but corrosion does built up behind rotor hat.
Cleans up easy, getting to it... not as easy.
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04-26-2022, 12:06 PM | #78 |
Drives: 18 ZL1 - M6 Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: MI
Posts: 440
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I noticed a "clunking" noise last year and I FINALLY had enough. That said, I followed the OP suggestions (anti seize) as well as this YouTube video (https://youtu.be/aAqbzedpfK4)
I found that one of my end-link bolts was loose, which is likely the cause of my "clunking" noise. However, I figured I'd take the OP up on his suggestions at the same time. In other words, a win-win. Thanks mjk3888 / everyone!!! |
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