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Old 03-19-2018, 02:49 PM   #43
Redlinez
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Owning one of these cars isn't a "poor man's" game either. I'm still blown away by the kind of money folks have to spend on brand new $40k-100k cars that are already fast, subjectively speaking. Obviously there are tons of fantastic paying jobs out there now, so that must be part of it. I think these things drive awesome bone stock. I appreciate you putting a REAL price on what these things cost. I like the idea of staying NA and doing parts at a time as money comes along.
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Old 03-19-2018, 03:52 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowblind View Post
Nice comparison Pray, the intangible factor in the NA pricing is how sexy it is to keep up with the boosted boys.

The ability to hurt feelings running all motor.......priceless.
also that mean cam sound for NA, and weight and ring gap... and simple.
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Old 03-19-2018, 04:34 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by PRAY View Post
I am not sure about the ZL1 pump theory. At least it didn't work for the blower car in the original post. I got no more head room out of it than I had before it. Ran out of pump at 540rw commanding and seeing 12.0 and fading fast. No matter what pressure I commanded that thing dropped down to around 48-53 psi. Hopefully the low side was good to go but the high side just couldn't pump it. I now have the LT4 injectors and high side pump so we will see what happens tomorrow on the dyno.

If it was the high side that was the limiter then I can see a bottle system plumbed into the low side working out. On pump gas at least.

Also on a DI engine and FI, all air is already ingested and being compressed when the fuel is being put in. So 6 PSI of boost say 30% greater air charge is being compressed 11.5 to 1 as the fuel is going in. Total combustion chamber PSI will be much higher (higher head) vs a liquid induction via the intake. That is a lot more head vs a N20 where it is mainly liquid by weight and does not vaporize fuller till near or past TDC.... The flow rate of a liquid is roughly the square root of the pressure delta. Long story short, I'm not surprised that a FI engine has far more dynamic compression than a liquid inject over NA engine, leading to higher head pressure and lower delta of rail to chamber => less fuel flow into the engine per any given HP.
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:38 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
That’s funny. There are tons of nitrous guys running a 150 shot. You don’t have to be an expert or have a progressive system. Typically you bolt on a kit and your safety components consist of a wot switch, window switch and maybe a timing retard module(or some tuning). This thread is about basic street cars that can drive to the track and click off 9’s.
Having owned a ton of nitrous cars I agree with you. I think the only part you may need a progressive controller is if you need to calm the hit down.

But most of the 6th gens I have seen both H/C , fbo and stock don't require a progressive controllers.

I haven't seen Prays H/C setup on dope yet!! His NA setups seem to make a good deal more power so that maybe come into play.

Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
I could be wrong but I think a drop in zl1 pump could get you in the 9’s on e85 and it is under $200.
My experience with NITROUS has always been timing and fuel.

You pull enough timing and have enough fuel she tends to be much happier longer. I haven't seen a FBO run 9's on bottle. Have seen some H/C cars do that though.

I think like anything else you could get away with doing a ZL1 pump up to a certain point but I think you would be pulling the pin on the grenade like KING said with a pressure drop on the hit or anywhere through the curve. Wouldn't take much especially on stock pistons.

At that point why take the chance..



Quote:
Originally Posted by danhr View Post
Half the people on this board think you need a progressive, dedicated fuel system, and a nano system for anything above a 100 shot.

Most nitrous people here or the ones I see run the bare minimum on 150hp. Hell I have see guys that don't gap the plug and run stock tunes with no timing pulled. But I don't see them running low 10's or high 9's either.

What you can get away with and what is safe are 2 different deals. "LEANER IS MEANER" blows chit up! But does work from time to time.

Just like the stock LS motors that people boost. Some guys can run 8's some run 9's and some blow up in the 10's. Some have luck with stock rod bolts some don't, some regap rings to go fast and some don't.... some have lived not doing it and some haven't.

I lived on nitrous for many many years.. I have gone both directions on both burning up motors half ass because it was the cheaper route and I have pushed stock parts with beyond limits with enough safety aka done correctly.

If someone is planning on running low 10's or high 9's on the stock bottom end on nitrous then a dedicated is the way to go.
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