[parish8]

That’s funny. There are tons of nitrous guys running a 150 shot. You don’t have to be an expert or have a progressive system. Typically you bolt on a kit and your safety components consist of a wot switch, window switch and maybe a timing retard module(or some tuning). This thread is about basic street cars that can drive to the track and click off 9’s.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Deakins

That's where we have different views on tuning a nitrous car...you will never see a 150 or 200 shot on a nitrous drag car. They will generally spray multiple kits or use a progressive with a large jet and that's when you have to think about all your compression. You can say static compression doesnt mean anything however the camshafts in these cars do not have all that much duration @ 50 nor an abundance of ramp rate so their dynamic compression ratio will be up there; hence why they are pretty good on their BSFC.

To be honest I'm not sure why you would go to the expense of plumbing a nice system to run such a small hit. To each their own but I have a feeling that very few, if anyone here has ever put a real nitrous car down the track. Not calling anyone out, but the idea that you slap a cheap system on and go is the exact reason why nitrous gets a bad name. Most go so far as to have the combustion chamber dessigned specifically for nitrous, keep the compression a tad lower, have a camshaft specifically spec'd for nitrous use, and then pay someone like Induction Solutions to craft the kits...and they are still difficult at times to manage. Different levels of use I know, but if you're gonna run a nitrous car with any frequency or at much of a power level it's every bit if not more of a commitment to design and tuning than a FI or NA car.

The same reason why guys spend 6-7grand for +150 hp supercharger setup. Nitrous is much easier to install anyway and cheaper. Some just want a nice bump in power.

This thread was about what kind of setup for bottom 10's to high 9's. Not 3 stage nitrous big block setups for 6's.

[TEEZYSS]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

I used to feel this way with my past cars. Until someone in a $3000 Mustang project was running 9’s with a junkyard 5.3 LS that he stuck a turbo on and daily drives. Then, my feelings were hurt.

I absolutely love powerful NA cars, but it only works to a point at which then the “big boy” boosted cars come in and flip the scenario.

I build a budget S475/5.3 Fox. was actually my last race car. Including the car I was in it for 12k and I budgeted the chit out of it using 90% used parts. Car made a healthy 769whp on 20psi and went 9.3@150...

Funny thing is that it was always impossible to get someone to race it. And most of the races I got into just lead to drama and excuses.

Its really talking about 2 different class of cars. If you bought your SS trying to take on race cars with inspection stickers then you should build a race car with an inspection sticker. If your wanting to go fast with all the luxuries then it just cost money.

There are way more DD cars running around then race cars with inspection stickers. Don't have to beat everyone.

Originally Posted by parish8

Pretty sure you can get a nk kit with heater and purge and a wot/window switch for $1500.

You can go cheap but at the level of the cars Pray was talking about AKA low 10's or High 9's. Pray say on E85 on the H/C setup the stock fuel system is up near done. So to spray on top of it you would want a stand alone setup for 1k and been done.

[parish8]

Originally Posted by TEEZYSS

I build a budget S475/5.3 Fox. was actually my last race car. Including the car I was in it for 12k and I budgeted the chit out of it using 90% used parts. Car made a healthy 769whp on 20psi and went 9.3@150...

Funny thing is that it was always impossible to get someone to race it. And most of the races I got into just lead to drama and excuses.

Its really talking about 2 different class of cars. If you bought your SS trying to take on race cars with inspection stickers then you should build a race car with an inspection sticker. If your wanting to go fast with all the luxuries then it just cost money.

There are way more DD cars running around then race cars with inspection stickers. Don't have to beat everyone.




You can go cheap but at the level of the cars Pray was talking about AKA low 10's or High 9's. Pray say on E85 on the H/C setup the stock fuel system is up near done. So to spray on top of it you would want a stand alone setup for 1k and been done.

I could be wrong but I think a drop in zl1 pump could get you in the 9’s on e85 and it is under $200.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by parish8

I could be wrong but I think a drop in zl1 pump could get you in the 9’s on e85 and it is under $200.

Yup this is correct. The Nitrous fuel solenoid pulls from the low side only, so all you need is a ZL1 in tank for fuel supply. Or you could mount a dedicated fuel cell under the hood and pull directly from that so there is no pressure drop on the hit. I believe this is a better way to go for bigger shots. N20 outlet makes some nice dedicated setups.

This is a nice setup imo.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/efi-wet...allery-image-1

[PRAY]

I am not sure about the ZL1 pump theory. At least it didn't work for the blower car in the original post. I got no more head room out of it than I had before it. Ran out of pump at 540rw commanding and seeing 12.0 and fading fast. No matter what pressure I commanded that thing dropped down to around 48-53 psi. Hopefully the low side was good to go but the high side just couldn't pump it. I now have the LT4 injectors and high side pump so we will see what happens tomorrow on the dyno.

If it was the high side that was the limiter then I can see a bottle system plumbed into the low side working out. On pump gas at least.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by PRAY

I am not sure about the ZL1 pump theory. At least it didn't work for the blower car in the original post. I got no more head room out of it than I had before it. Ran out of pump at 540rw commanding and seeing 12.0 and fading fast. No matter what pressure I commanded that thing dropped down to around 48-53 psi. Hopefully the low side was good to go but the high side just couldn't pump it. I now have the LT4 injectors and high side pump so we will see what happens tomorrow on the dyno.

If it was the high side that was the limiter then I can see a bottle system plumbed into the low side working out. On pump gas at least.

There was a member who was spraying a 200 shot with E85...only fuel mod was ZL1 in tank. Not saying this is safe just reporting what I saw.

[MatthewAMEL]

Pray..you are a smart guy and obviously know this platform...

It’s why I am shocked I have to post this...

If you are willing to spend $10k on a Motor build, you should spend it on the motor!

$10k gets you to 525whp easy with the realibility/drivability of stock and plenty of headroom to go FI with no worries.

Redline will do a 416 stroker with 600whp for $15k. THEN you can add boost for 800+

Motor build is ALWAYS better than FI on a wet sump due to heat/weight/durability issues.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Pray..you are a smart guy and obviously know this platform...

It’s why I am shocked I have to post this...

If you are willing to spend $10k on a Motor build, you should spend it on the motor!

$10k gets you to 525whp easy with the realibility/drivability of stock and plenty of headroom to go FI with no worries.

Redline will do a 416 stroker with 600whp for $15k. THEN you can add boost for 800+

Motor build is ALWAYS better than FI on a wet sump due to heat/weight/durability issues.

Did you read the OP? This thread was just to show the cost difference between FI and NA builds to hit low 10's/high 9's. Pray has always been about pushing this platform NA.

[USAFS197]

You're making an all-motor solution look much more appealing, Brett.

[DFW1LE]

Now we just need to have Brett see how an RPM M6 to auto conversion would help the NA manual cars:

LS-series SFI flexplate (6 bolt)
Torque Converter - Precision Industries - any stall, single disk
Level V 4L80E, billet input shaft, HD sprag/drum assembly
Camaro 4L80e Crossmember Kit with transmission mount
2010 Camaro DSS Driveshaft 4L80E
MSD Atomic Transmission Controller with Wiring Harness, PRNDL Switch with Wiring Harness and Shifter Lever

Cost is $7.7K

Anyhow, I suspect staying M6 and adding a 150 shot N20 for NA HCI cars would be cheaper for achieving times comparable to A8 cars.

[danhr]

Originally Posted by parish8

That’s funny. There are tons of nitrous guys running a 150 shot. You don’t have to be an expert or have a progressive system. Typically you bolt on a kit and your safety components consist of a wot switch, window switch and maybe a timing retard module(or some tuning). This thread is about basic street cars that can drive to the track and click off 9’s.

Half the people on this board think you need a progressive, dedicated fuel system, and a nano system for anything above a 100 shot.

[KingLT1]

Yea I remember the days when guys were running 100 shots on LS1's with stock plugs and no timing pulled. They lived doing it too. Small shots are pretty simple and don't require a whole lot of attention to detail. Start spraying 150+, then I would definitely think things through a little more.

[asthmamax11]

Thanks for putting this together Pray.
Quarter mile racing these cars is not a poor man's game.