[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by oldman

The stronger Ediff and 1/2 shafts... will help. Stiffer suspension a negative. The M6 is a BIG hindrance.

Not sure the Ediff is stronger. The 5th gen ZL1 diff is the hard core upgrade to go really fast on all the V8 Camaros. And the standard SS diff is pretty robust with the iron center section and how it is holding up to slicks. Are the ZL1/1LE axles stronger than the SS parts? If so, I wonder if we can fit them to the SS. That would be a nice cheap SS upgrade there.

The M6 is the hinderance that pays you back with more driving enjoyment.

[oldman]

This is the CVS's ediff

I do not know the size of the ediff ring gear. It looks bigger than the 8.6 but looks smaller than the 9.9 of last of the 5th gen ZL1. It is a 9.6 according to GM power-train engineer.

See my posting here:
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=477299

The most basic and unanswered question is the new unit a 8.6 or a 9.9...


http://www.hotrod.com/articles/put-9...r-2016-camaro/

Don't know but someday soon there should be a sticky.


it also says the ZL1 had completely different shafts.

I know way more about a Challenger. It looks like the 5th gen has an aluminum carrier? The 6th gen SS has a cast iron. If so, even with the same 8.6 gear the 6th gen is going to stronger. There is a critique out by Strange about modern lateral split cases and that they are weak on ring gear deflection:

"The stock rear differential uses a smaller 8.5-inch ring gear. Notice how the case splits longitudinally. Bagshaw says that when you add horsepower and torque with just a few engine upgrades, this design can cause problems, as the lateral loading from the ring gear pushing on the pinion wants to split the case open. GM has also seen this problem; for the ZL1 Camaro, the company has designed a diff case that opens from the back instead of the side."

Nutshell:
If the 6th gen SS is cast iron 8.6", which it looks to be. Up grade the halfshaft and drive shaft, wait for the LSD to bust and then upgrade that.

The 2017 eDiff is a 9.6 ring and the eDiff is not really a drag type diff IMO. Look for a 9.9 upgrade similar to the 5th gen ZL1 upgrade this will include half shafts and drive shaft. . don't get me wrong would love an affordable ediff.

wait for Strange 9" or 9.75", Ligenfelter 9.5".

Listed in order of reasonableness and price.

[oldman]

so a 1LE showed up at the autoX today, it was driven by a GM powertrain engineer. He told me that the eDiff is a 9.6 ring gear. He also said that behind a M6 with DR / slicks the eDiff is marginal for drag racing; however the axles would fail first. What is marginal... dunno.... something less that the 9.9 form the 5th gen... something more than the aluminum housing of the 8.6 fifth gen.

He also said the SS 6th gen iron housing was significantly stronger that the 8.6 of the fifth gen; but was not 100% sure it takes the same ring pinion and posi as the 5th gen. We both agreed that it would probably be the spiders in the posi that failed first.

He said for drag racing GM will come out with the 5th gen type 9.9 bolt-in with axles and drive shaft.

I'll edit the above post too with new info

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by oldman

so a 1LE showed up at the autoX today, it was driven by a GM powertrain engineer. He told me that the eDiff is a 9.6 ring gear. He also said that behind a M6 with DR / slicks the eDiff is marginal for drag racing; however the axles would fail first. What is marginal... dunno.... something less that the 9.9 form the 5th gen... something more than the aluminum housing of the 8.6 fifth gen.

He also said the SS 6th gen iron housing was significantly stronger that the 8.6 of the fifth gen; but was not 100% sure it takes the same ring pinion and posi as the 5th gen. We both agreed that it would probably be the spiders in the posi that failed first.

He said for drag racing GM will come out with the 5th gen type 9.9 bolt-in with axles and drive shaft.

I'll edit the above post too with new info

Great info! +1 on the spider gears. Been there done that on my 5th gen 1LE.

After thinking about it those axles are like the shear pins on a boat. Wouldn't you rather replace an axle than a diff from a blown posi? I'm leaving the stock ones on. I can get a flatbed ride home for free.

[oldman]

my thinking is that I should look for a spare 8.6 carrier and build from there. The talk is to run a torsen and it is not only fine for all racing but maybe even prefered.

Or the true track.

http://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech-...th-gen-camaro/

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by oldman

my thinking is that I should look for a spare 8.6 carrier and build from there. The talk is to run a torsen and it is not only fine for all racing but maybe even prefered.

Or the true track.

http://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech-...th-gen-camaro/

Yea, that Truetrac would be the plan if they have a posi for us. On my 5th gen I had the option when I blew the posi, but then I knew the case was weak so I went with the ZL1 9.9 kit Chevy has for the SSes. Man that sucker weighed as much as two SS diffs (just guessing). But this option was 1/2 the cost of the aftermarket diffs, axles, and DS. The penalty was weight, our worst enemy.

As far as I know only a couple of gear options for this diff. 3.73 and 3.23. It will hold 1K RWHP. Beefy. Still I would like to see what a 4.10 does for a CA6 SS M6 on a stock diff. I don't mind staying away from slicks.

[oldman]

It's been a while here at my updates,
1) Pilot PS 4 all around (3rd set of rear tires in 14K) yes I "practice" too much. These tires allow me to use 1st gear and WOT once again. I can deliver consistent high 3s 0-60 on these with an M6. I have a GTECH Pro as well as the factory computer onboard. I'm actively tossing around the idea of widening the stock rims to 11" and running the bigger 305 Pilots, I'm so happy with the tire not only on stop light beat downs but on the twisties. This tire is on the new 2018 GT with PP1 option.

2) I'm FBO, with EFI-Tuning and E85, 103 mm TB, MSD Intake, Mishimoto's "fixed" CAI, Kooks 1 and 7/8"

3) Rear is lowered 3/4" to 1" forgot the name of the spring. I have adjustable top arm and adjustable toe. The rear alignment is set to whatever minimum setting spec needed to keep the tread flat and straight. I put 100 lbs in the truck before setting the toe and camber so to mimic a good street launch.

5) I'll probably drop $5K into the ride this year:
a) the above mentioned widen rims and tires
b) an really long duration AFM cam that I will install on the car, just to see how hard it really is... should have a bad *ss idle
c) updated shaft cause they are on sale and sooner or later I'll break one.
d) driveshaft safety loop

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by oldman

It's been a while here at my updates,
1) Pilot PS 4 all around (3rd set of rear tires in 14K) yes I "practice" too much. These tires allow me to use 1st gear and WOT once again. I can deliver consistent high 3s 0-60 on these with an M6. I have a GTECH Pro as well as the factory computer onboard. I'm actively tossing around the idea of widening the stock rims to 11" and running the bigger 305 Pilots, I'm so happy with the tire not only on stop light beat downs but on the twisties. This tire is on the new 2018 GT with PP1 option.

2) I'm FBO, with EFI-Tuning and E85, 103 mm TB, MSD Intake, Mishimoto's "fixed" CAI, Kooks 1 and 7/8"

3) Rear is lowered 3/4" to 1" forgot the name of the spring. I have adjustable top arm and adjustable toe. The rear alignment is set to whatever minimum setting spec needed to keep the tread flat and straight. I put 100 lbs in the truck before setting the toe and camber so to mimic a good street launch.

5) I'll probably drop $5K into the ride this year:
a) the above mentioned widen rims and tires
b) an really long duration AFM cam that I will install on the car, just to see how hard it really is... should have a bad *ss idle
c) updated shaft cause they are on sale and sooner or later I'll break one.
d) driveshaft safety loop

My rear camber is maxed out at -1 degree, I feel there is something wrong somewhere but 2 alignment shops have told me this. I'm not sure if maybe I can get different eccentric bolts to get some more positive camber or not? Also how are you widening the stock wheels? I thought a wider contact patch is only really good for cornering and for straight line only tire diameter matters?

[oldman]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

My rear camber is maxed out at -1 degree, I feel there is something wrong somewhere but 2 alignment shops have told me this. I'm not sure if maybe I can get different eccentric bolts to get some more positive camber or not? Also how are you widening the stock wheels? I thought a wider contact patch is only really good for cornering and for straight line only tire diameter matters?

I have adjustable arms for both camber and toe, they are needed IMO, especially with a drop of 3/4 to 1". I don't know what my camber was bone stock. I don't think I saw eccentric bolts on any of the arms?? Forget now. The stock toe link has an eccentric, but that is for toe.

Yep it is better to have a tire with more for aft contact path for grip, but sans running 18 PSI drag radials, the only way to get any increase is just more rubber on the ground and putting more weight in the back, which I've done by lowering the rear. I've lowered the rear on my Challenger more than the front, and the last VW the Shine suspension was known as the two dead bodies in the trunk look.

[oldman]

As an update, I was trying to get a 416 stroker to help with the long M6 1st gear pull. There are no gears yet for the car. After running into a bearing issue with the stroker and the block (don't ask). I've gone to supercharger.
Pros: simple to make the needed torque and HP that any street tire can hook (street tire to my mind is a 220 wear or better tire).
Cons: more front weight

So the engine will button up with Pray ported heads, studs, long tubes off road pipes, Pray tune and then I'll be back on getting the largest lightest tire combo. I'm very interested in the 325 on 19" rim ZL1 1lE size. I don't want to go bigger than 245s in the front.