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Old 04-03-2012, 09:34 AM   #15
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Thanks for the input dude. I'm trying to wrap my head around the whole thing so that I don't end up missing something and having to leave the car in pieces for a while.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:53 AM   #16
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Here's an important piece of info you need to know.
I just found out that some of ********s harnesses went out with the wires installed wrong. you have to switch the grey wires.
heres the youtube link
http://youtu.be/jMfg_rsEwos
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:15 PM   #17
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Sound dampening SUCKS!!! just wanted to vent that out .....ok back to back breaking work
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:23 PM   #18
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rear deck is ready for speakers now. not sure what you guys think about my speaker selection but thats what i'm going with, if it dont sound good guess what... too bad because its staying in there hahaha
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:32 PM   #19
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Do you not subscribe to the 25% rule?
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Do you not subscribe to the 25% rule?
guess not , explain?
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:41 PM   #21
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guess not , explain?
I first heard about it in this forum. An in depth explanation can be found here

Basically, sound deadener is not the same as a sound insulator. It is only designed to stop the metal it's attached to from vibrating and therefore transmitting/reflecting unwanted sounds. There are other materials designed to insulate against sound.

Because it's only used to reduce vibration, mostly by increasing mass, you do not need to cover an entire panel. 25% coverage is nearly as effective as 100%, but costs less, and weighs less. Just focus on the parts of the panel that would be most likely to vibrate.
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy_1980 View Post
I first heard about it in this forum. An in depth explanation can be found here

Basically, sound deadener is not the same as a sound insulator. It is only designed to stop the metal it's attached to from vibrating and therefore transmitting/reflecting unwanted sounds. There are other materials designed to insulate against sound.

Because it's only used to reduce vibration, mostly by increasing mass, you do not need to cover an entire panel. 25% coverage is nearly as effective as 100%, but costs less, and weighs less. Just focus on the parts of the panel that would be most likely to vibrate.

ah ha very good information i appreciate it. i did only cover the section that would vibrate. anything that was reinforced i didnt cover. almost the whole rear deck is one piece of sheet metal so i covered the whole thing and i was amazed at how it stopped it from vibrating. i also covered the trunk lid under the felt where you wont see it to try to prevent trunk rattle. but thats all i will be covering because i hate this stuff and dont want to apply anymore lol.
and since you have to remove half the interior to get to the rear speakers i figured screw it i'll cover the whole rear deck just in case.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy_1980 View Post
I first heard about it in this forum. An in depth explanation can be found here

Basically, sound deadener is not the same as a sound insulator. It is only designed to stop the metal it's attached to from vibrating and therefore transmitting/reflecting unwanted sounds. There are other materials designed to insulate against sound.

Because it's only used to reduce vibration, mostly by increasing mass, you do not need to cover an entire panel. 25% coverage is nearly as effective as 100%, but costs less, and weighs less. Just focus on the parts of the panel that would be most likely to vibrate.
That's right, sound deadener is just to keep a panel, like a trunk lid or roof, from humming. To block external noise, you need a sound barrier. It needs to consist of 2 layers at least. First a foam decoupling layer and a solid heavy barrier layer, like mass loaded vinyl.

Thanks, IdealG. I have been following your thread because I will be doing this in about a month. I have a ton of performance mods and plan to add a new sound system. I will be soundproofing the car as much as possible.
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:49 AM   #24
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Well i thought it was harder to get the rear deck back in then it was to take out.
what a struggle to get it back in ugh. I didnt take the interior panels out that cover the quarter glass so you have to put tape on it to cover it where it meets the rear deck or you will scrsatch your plastic up. i guess i'll take a pic so you can see my screw up. then you have to shove the rear deck into the bottom of the rear glass so it will catch the slots that hold it but as you do this you need to lift up on the front of the deck to clear the rods that protrude through for hanging clothes or baby seat or whatever.

wow lol my plastics look really bad in those pics haha its hardly noticeable in person. im going to clean it up with some sand paper and compound.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:08 AM   #25
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just a couple of quick pics as i go. need to neatly tie up the wires and tape them to the deck.
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Old 04-04-2012, 04:29 PM   #26
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well i got the sub box in, i'm probably going to use two 90 degree black brackets to secure the sub box from moving. Now to figure out the wiring and where to mount the amps. I really hate messy wiring but there just doesnt look like any easy way to do this. This is going to take some time I probably wont have it done until saturday or sunday.
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:55 PM   #27
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Got the amps mounted, mounted the subwoofer amp under the rear deck to get it out of the way. I like to still be able to use the trunk and having two amps that big just clutters the trunk. I ran the wires up to the dash for the boost controls and mounted the controls as seen in the pics. so far so good.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:05 PM   #28
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looking good. I begin tackling my project next weekend.
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