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Old 05-31-2014, 09:16 AM   #15
myold88


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sickness91Z28 View Post
Oh yeah? Are you using a hail matrix to do your estimates? This is not totaled at alllllllll. I'm a PDR guy and have seen waaaaay worse damage and the cars were not totaled at all. If it were an older vehicle, with a lot of miles...it probably would total out but this vehicle is only a year old....still holds a lot of value. By the pictures, most of it will be fixed conventionally.
Also a multi line Adjuster here. It's all about ACV (actual cash value) vs the
Salvage value: If a car is worth (replacement value) of say $20,000 and the estimated Salvage value is 50%-
Then anything over $10,000 will total the car.
I know as a PDR guy you don't want anything totaled, but your response is wishful thinking.
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Old 05-31-2014, 01:14 PM   #16
Sickness91Z28
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Regardless, keep us updated.
How many miles on your SS?
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Old 06-01-2014, 12:17 AM   #17
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It's a shame and waste that a car can be totaled from only hail damage......especially if the car is trouble free and mechanically solid. I understand body work can get very expensive quickly though....
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:20 PM   #18
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There is 6000 miles on it. We had a pdr guy look at it and he estimates the pdr work would cost $3500 then they'd have their body shop look at it. He said guaranteed hood, trunk and roof will be in the body shop. Guess now we just wait, it could go either way. We don't want it totaled. This was the first brand new car we ever bought so kinda attached. We also have an 07 escalade ext and 03 tahoe that were damaged by the storm.
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:22 PM   #19
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I had a 94 S10 SS get hit hard with hail in 2001 with about 102,xxx.xx on odo.
Before the hail the body was almost perfectly straight.
Insurance totalled it and the last i knew it was running around
Iowa !
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:45 PM   #20
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What determines a total loss varies from state to state and insurance company to insurance company. They will calculate the ratio of damage to value compare this ratio to limits they set on your policy and/or established by the law in your state.

Quote:
While the procedure varies slightly from state to state, the insurance company will typically take ownership of the totaled vehicle (known as “salvage”) and may obtain a “salvage title” for the vehicle. After it pays it’s insured the pre-loss ACV of the vehicle and forwards the certificate of ownership, the license plates and a required fee to the Department of Motor Vehicle (DMV), the DMV then issues a Salvage Certificate for the vehicle. In some cases, the vehicle is repaired, re-registered with the DMV, and then classified as a “revived salvage” or “salvaged” vehicle. Of course, if the insured wants to keep the “totaled” vehicle, the insurance company will deduct the value of the salvage from the claim payment.

The criteria for deciding when a car is a total loss and when it can be repaired vary from insurance company to insurance company and might even be dictated and controlled by state statute or regulation. Further complicating the issue is the fact that insurance companies do not all use the same sources for determining the value of a vehicle. The threshold used by your insurance company to make this determination can be discovered by calling your insurance agent. Insurance professionals, on the other hand, have to be familiar with these rules, criteria, and thresholds in all 50 states.

In determining whether a vehicle is totaled, insurance companies will calculate the total loss ratio (cost of repairs/actual cash value) and then compare this ratio to limits set either internally within the company and/or regulated and established by state law. It is also sometimes referred to simply as the damage ratio. Some states dictate how high this damage ratio needs to be in order to be able to declare a vehicle a “total loss” and be eligible for a salvage title or certificate. This is referred to as the Total Loss Threshold (TLT). In order to total a vehicle, the total loss ratio must exceed the established percentage. If the TLT is not dictated by the state, an insurance company will usually default to something known as the Total Loss Formula (TLF) which is:

Cost of Repair + Salvage Value > Actual Cash Value

If the sum of the first two quantities is greater than the ACV, the car can be declared a total loss. As an example, a damaged 2002 Toyota Echo with 185,000 miles in good condition has an ACV of approximately $2,800. Total repair costs are estimated at $2,000, for a damage ratio of 72 percent. This car would be considered a total loss in Arkansas, where the TLT is 70 percent, but not in Florida where the TLT is 80 percent. In Illinois, the TLF would be used and, if the salvage were worth $700, the car would not be totaled ($2,000 + $700 < $2,800). Of course, states utilizing the TLF rely on and defer to the judgment and opinion of licensed appraisers. Individual state laws provide the following with regard to the TLT:

Alabama 75%
Montana
TLF
Alaska
TLF
Nebraska
75%
Arizona
TLF
Nevada
65%
Arkansas
70%
New Hampshire
75%
California
TLF
New Jersey
TLF
Colorado
100%
New Mexico
TLF
Connecticut
TLF
New York
75%
Delaware
TLF
North Carolina 75%
Florida
80%
North Dakota
75%
Georgia
TLF
Ohio TLF
Hawaii
TLF
Oklahoma
60%
Idaho
TLF
Oregon
80%
Illinois TLF
Pennsylvania
TLF
Indiana 70%
Rhode Island
TLF
Iowa 50%
South Carolina
75%
Kansas
75%
South Dakota
TLF
Kentucky
75%
Tennessee
75%
Louisiana 75%
Texas
100%
Maine TLF
Utah
TLF
Maryland 75%
Vermont
TLF
Massachusetts
TLF
Virginia
75%
Michigan
75%
Washington TLF
Minnesota 70%
West Virginia
75%
Mississippi
TLF
Wisconsin
70%
Missouri
80%
Wyoming 75%
Back on topic - I'd consult your insurance company first and see what your options are. Most of those look repairable with PDR and the cost to do that is going to be substantially lower than full bodyshop repairs.
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickey280 View Post
There is 6000 miles on it. We had a pdr guy look at it and he estimates the pdr work would cost $3500 then they'd have their body shop look at it. He said guaranteed hood, trunk and roof will be in the body shop. Guess now we just wait, it could go either way. We don't want it totaled. This was the first brand new car we ever bought so kinda attached. We also have an 07 escalade ext and 03 tahoe that were damaged by the storm.
Good luck on resell value. That 3500 in repairs will seem like 20k in the long run.
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:59 PM   #22
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These pictures almost made me cry.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:17 AM   #23
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Well here we are over 2 weeks later and the adjuster still hasn't submitted the damage report. The pdr guy was staring to work on it but the insurance company said to stop due to not receiving any paperwork yet.

We have decided to fix the car, we are attached...lol. This was the first brand new car we bought and we plan on keeping probably forever until we give it one of the kids.
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Old 05-11-2015, 08:23 PM   #24
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Ahh, what is the ending to this story? I realize it is an old thread, but I gotta know the ending. I just went through a shitty hailstorm, pretty sure hood replacement is needed and roof and trunk need PDR as does the rest of the car (managed to hit at least once on every panel).
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Old 05-13-2015, 02:21 PM   #25
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Because he only has 5 posts, my guess is that we will never hear the end to the story.

Paul
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Old 05-13-2015, 02:25 PM   #26
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Old school trick is to heat the dimples and then apply very cold wet rag to the dents and they usually pop out.. Something my dad told me many years ago....
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