12-08-2023, 06:15 AM | #1 |
Drives: '18 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis
Posts: 41
|
Best stud solution
I've tracked the camaro for a little over 2 seasons (maybe 20 days or so plus some autocross) and am thinking I should replace the studs preventatively. I don't run spacers or anything, just 18x11 and 18x12 apex wheels with slicks.
Is my best option just to buy a new set of the OEM studs and lugnuts? I explored the ARP vs MSI options a little bit, but started wondering if details like torque spec would be different. For instance is the surface area on the seat going to be difference on a no-name aftermarket open lugnut (vs MSI lugnut), and are the alloys of the stud and lugnut going to expand at different rates if they're not matched, etc. It looked like torque specs for ARP and MSI could be significantly lower although I didn't see an official source. I guess that would make me nervous going from a GM confirmed set up with 140 ft-lb to an aftermarket one recommending under 100. Am I overthinking this? |
12-08-2023, 09:46 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2004 BMW 330CI, 2022 1SS 1LE Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: NC
Posts: 745
|
Yes I think you are overthinking it. I've been running ARP wheel studs with 26mm spacer at the front on my 18x11 apex wheels for 1 year now (about 25 track days) on slicks. I always torque them to 140 ft lbs and have no issues.
|
12-08-2023, 12:22 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2018 SS 1LE Hyperblue Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 347
|
Seconded. You can even find longer truck studs for cheaper than the really nice(but $$$) ARP hardware.
The rear studs are a pain in the ass to swap FYI. I ended up removing the whole knuckle just to get the hub off. I'm sure someone has a better way, but I couldn't get the studs out without removing the hub. That required removing/replacing the axle nut. PITA! |
12-08-2023, 01:30 PM | #4 |
|
I've been tracking mine for 6 years and never heard of a need for new studs just because you're tracking it.
__________________
Last edited by carguy55; 12-09-2023 at 05:09 AM. |
12-08-2023, 03:22 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2022 1SS 1LE A10 BCD WCT+PDR Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 3,209
|
Yes, you are overthinking it.
__________________
2022 1SS 1LE A10 BCD WCT+PDR2014 1SS 1LE NPP RECARO SIM-SOLD1995 Z28 M6 GSC PGM-SOLD1975 NOVA COUPE 300HP 350 TH350 FLASH RED-SOLD
|
12-08-2023, 06:57 PM | #6 | |
Drives: 2021 2SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 805
|
Quote:
How many track days to you have on yours over that 5 years? How many times do you think you've torqued the lugs on those OEM studs? |
|
12-08-2023, 10:23 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,064
|
If using the same wheels I’d be concerned the lug seat or even the potential of thread galling with that much repeated on and off, if you have a track set and DD set probably not so bad.
__________________
Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components. |
12-09-2023, 09:42 AM | #8 |
Drives: '18 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis
Posts: 41
|
Thanks for the replies. I've witnessed one instance of a wheel coming off, sending a car into a wall at high speed. And heard of other stories of snapped studs leading to losing wheels on track. So I'm probably more concerned because of that.
I take the wheels on and off frequently. Each time there are little metal shavings visible (most likely from the lugnuts). So there has to be some wear and tear going on that would suggest preventative maintenance is reasonable. Anyway, I'll buy that I could be over thinking it but the more I read about it the more complicated it seems. |
12-09-2023, 10:16 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2018 Camaro 1SS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Front Range, CO
Posts: 1,868
|
If you do it, go MSI. I wouldn't, 14mm studs are pretty decent sized and used on big trucks, etc. I have also see wheels come off, but often that's on cars with MUCH larger than stock wheels/tires, like a vintage VW running massive slicks, so you know those studs are way undersized for the use. Our cars were designed for large wheel/tires.
I would recommend getting MSI lug nuts though, I went through a couple sets of really $hitty open-ended lug nuts, there's so much Chinese garbage on the market and it's infiltrated brands you may have once trusted like Gorilla. Now it's a crap-shoot whether you get decent hardware. The only lugs I'd buy are from McGard for splined and closed-ended lugs for street use, or MSI open-ended. MSI hardware is excellent quality and low friction, you'll never see metal shavings from the lugs cutting into the studs or uneven torque after use. I'd even say MSI is a better option vs ARP.
__________________
|
12-11-2023, 06:00 AM | #10 |
Drives: '18 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis
Posts: 41
|
Yeah I might go that route - stock studs and MSI lugnuts. Is the torque spec lower because of their low friction coating?
|
12-20-2023, 09:37 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2020 Rally Green Metallic 1SS 1LE Join Date: May 2021
Location: VIRginia
Posts: 16
|
Another open lug nut option that I tracked this year and their site claims to be made in the USA are Ford Performance Parts Wheel Nuts M-1012-N. Blasphemous I know, but significantly cheaper than MSI.
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
|