[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

I have a 2022 ZL1 and do track the car. I am happy with how the Stock magride performs on track for now, but I would like more height/corner balance adjustability. I have Eibach lowering springs currently and the car doesn't sit level (higher in rear and on drivers side) I am looking for a set of coilovers that will be good on Track, but also streetable (less of a concern). I ordered a 1LE back in December of 2021 and it still hasn't arrived. I have pretty much written the car off at this point and will just keep mine regardless of if the other car ever arrives.

That being said, I've been looking into KW V3 and DSC Sport. KW seems to be a good all around coilover for a pretty good price. DSC is $8k after coilovers and controller box, but they have Magride and are awesome Track coilovers. Are the DSC Sport worth the extra $5k, or is there another option I'm not aware of? Thanks for the input.

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

I have a 2022 ZL1 and do track the car. I am happy with how the Stock magride performs on track for now, but I would like more height/corner balance adjustability. I have Eibach lowering springs currently and the car doesn't sit level (higher in rear and on drivers side) I am looking for a set of coilovers that will be good on Track, but also streetable (less of a concern). I ordered a 1LE back in December of 2021 and it still hasn't arrived. I have pretty much written the car off at this point and will just keep mine regardless of if the other car ever arrives.

That being said, I've been looking into KW V3 and DSC Sport. KW seems to be a good all around coilover for a pretty good price. DSC is $8k after coilovers and controller box, but they have Magride and are awesome Track coilovers. Are the DSC Sport worth the extra $5k, or is there another option I'm not aware of? Thanks for the input.

I'm on the same boat and I been doing my research and you have a couple options that I saw. I personally think I'm going to start with the DSC controller then upgrade to there Tractive RT package. Seems like that is the best of both words coilover with mag technology.

Also you have Detroit speed coilovers with are about $7600 for there double.

Last option is Vorshlag with MCS range from $4300 to $7800

[Checkmate1]

Try Fortune 510 coilovers - it also comes up with camber plates. I know another guy on the forum that got these that are quite happy with them.

[kropscamaro16]

i have base model 1ss no magride i spent years looking for track orientated coilovers and i ended up with a mcs 1 way kit from vorshlag and love it


99% of the coilover kits out there megan godspeed bc kw are decent but none of them are good enough for hardcore track use


traktive kit is nice but $$$$

[RobZL1]

I can give sort of related experience here- I had KW v3's on my '04 CTS-V. They were nice quality and were great on the street. I never tracked it, but the guy who owns it now tracks it all the time, and says the suspension is amazing (I did a lot of other bits, too).

I don't know his driver credentials, and I know it's not the same platform, but I thought it was very comfortable on the street and stuck like glue, and the current owner who spends a ton of time at track events loves the way they handle.

Probably not super relevant to a question about a ZL1, but some experience with KW, for what it's worth.

[kropscamaro16]

https://vorshlag-store.com/collections/suspension

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

i have base model 1ss no magride i spent years looking for track orientated coilovers and i ended up with a mcs 1 way kit from vorshlag and love it


99% of the coilover kits out there megan godspeed bc kw are decent but none of them are good enough for hardcore track use


traktive kit is nice but $$$$

I love to track my car, but I just do it for fun. I am very new to the sport, the ZL1 is my first car I have been on track with. I don't think at this time I can justify $4k+ on coilovers. Fortune 510's or KW V3's will probably be all I would ever need. I think that money would be better spent on tires, pads, and oil changes for more seat time.

I am ok with the Magride right now honestly. I just want the car to drive/handle similarly to stock, but have the car sit level and be able to adjust camber and be able to corner balance. I already can't reach the cars capability as a driver. The uneven ride height bothers me and I can't imagine it is good for handling characteristics.

Thank you for the suggestion though. I will definitely consider them for the future.

[kropscamaro16]

its up to you but you need to figure out do you want better performance or just better stance? mcs coilovers will give you you both but yes the price is alot more than most of the other ones out there but that is for a reason...


if you want a better stance just do some springs like eibach or yyz and call it a day

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

its up to you but you need to figure out do you want better performance or just better stance? mcs coilovers will give you you both but yes the price is alot more than most of the other ones out there but that is for a reason...


if you want a better stance just do some springs like eibach or yyz and call it a day

I hear you. At this point, I just want to keep or slightly improve handling characteristics. If KW or Fortune aren't going to decrease performance over magride, they are what I want. It isn't so much about lowering the car as much as it is, getting the car to sit level.

I have Eibach springs on the car now and they lowered the front, but didn't do much in the rear at all. Plus the bigger issue, is the height difference from left to right.

[yiweno]

MCS. Especially since you are tracking and are looking at things over $4k. Don't bother with kw or fortune since you already have magride.

Don't bother with it looking even height because it won't be. Front is always lower because you want rake and drivers side without you in it will always be higher because when you corner balance it, it needs to account for your driver weight.

[PowerDemon]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

I hear you. At this point, I just want to keep or slightly improve handling characteristics. If KW or Fortune aren't going to decrease performance over magride, they are what I want. It isn't so much about lowering the car as much as it is, getting the car to sit level.

I have Eibach springs on the car now and they lowered the front, but didn't do much in the rear at all. Plus the bigger issue, is the height difference from left to right.

I thought I was the only one. I’ve got BMR springs on mine and it’s higher on the drivers side than the passenger side. Passenger side looks perfect, but drivers is maybe 0.5” higher. It drives me nuts.

That’s why I’m also here looking into coils! Did you ever make the switch?

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by yiweno

MCS. Especially since you are tracking and are looking at things over $4k. Don't bother with kw or fortune since you already have magride.

Don't bother with it looking even height because it won't be. Front is always lower because you want rake and drivers side without you in it will always be higher because when you corner balance it, it needs to account for your driver weight.

Originally Posted by PowerDemon

I thought I was the only one. I’ve got BMR springs on mine and it’s higher on the drivers side than the passenger side. Passenger side looks perfect, but drivers is maybe 0.5” higher. It drives me nuts.

That’s why I’m also here looking into coils! Did you ever make the switch?

yiweno makes an excellent point here that always is overlooked.

Anti roll bar preload and static weight distribution play a part in static ride heights. A small variance in those ride heights are normally nothing to worry about. You have to remember that the corner weight distribution is more important than symmetrical ride height. These cars have excellent corner weight distributions from the factory (with an average sized driver in the seat). I have personally put my Gen6 on scales and with me in the car the side to side weight distribution is impressive. 1lb side to side at the front and 18lbs at the rear. While cross corner weights can change due to anti roll bar preloads and other bind, some weight distribution can only be altered by physically moving static weight. Like having a full fuel tank vs empty or adding the driver or passengers to the car. Have someone measure the ride heights with you in the car. It won't change much but it is worth noting. To make sure everything is correct a few things must be taken into account.

First off, installing drop springs requires any rubber bushed suspension joint to be loosened and retightened at static ride height. This is often overlooked by owners who have had drop springs installed. Otherwise that suspension joint can be in a state of bind and this will create resistance in that corner which can alter ride height and corner weights. That resistance also acts like additional wheel rate that is not accounted for in the damper tuning. Uncontrolled wheel rate is never a good thing for chassis dynamics. Some owners will complain of a "bouncy" feeling after the drop springs are installed. Some but not all Gen6 joints use rubber. Most of the upper level performance variants use spherical joints that do not need to be reset to a new ride height.

Related to the above, is the way GM mounts the anti roll bars to the car. They use a rubber bushed mount that is actually glued to the bars. The position the mounts are glued to the bars is important because it is done at or near static OE ride height. If the car's ride height changes then the bar is now rotated slightly creating preload. GM has engineered some bar preload into these cars, I believe to help fine tune the corner weights and to add responsiveness in the chassis. It's not much but I have personally seen how it effects the feel/responsiveness and weight distributions on my car. Once you start making ride height changes this will put the bars into a different place relative to their intended static position. This causes more or less preload and can change the car's actual static ride height. Note that the typical aftermarket anti roll bars do not use a tight/glued mounting bushing but a greased poly bushing that allows for unbound rotation of the bar within the mount.

If someone wanted to add coilovers to only worry about the final ride heights then they may create corner weight distributions that are not optimal for maximum grip and chassis response. If max grip and chassis response are important then anyone who adds coilovers must put the car on scales and adjust the coilovers to maximize the corner weight distribution. Just adding drop springs or coil overs is not a simple R&R. There are a few things that must be looked at to maximize the new setup.

[PowerDemon]

@ cdb95z28 Thank you for taking the time to write that.

In regards to bushing binding, I did specifically ask the shop that installed the springs to tighten everything at ride height. I did not watch them do it, and I don’t know how you can verify it but I asked. I don’t know what else I could do besides go behind them and do it myself. I just wouldn’t be sure which bushings need to be loosened and retightened.

I have noticed a difference in the ride height primarily on the drivers side when it’s full of fuel. So next time I have a chance I’ll have someone measure with a full tank of fuel and me in it.

Would you recommend upgrading to an aftermarket sway bar to avoid the issues you mentioned? I doubt the shop adjusted that when they dropped the car. If so which ones?

Thanks again for the info.

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Originally Posted by PowerDemon

@ cdb95z28 Thank you for taking the time to write that.

In regards to bushing binding, I did specifically ask the shop that installed the springs to tighten everything at ride height. I did not watch them do it, and I don’t know how you can verify it but I asked. I don’t know what else I could do besides go behind them and do it myself. I just wouldn’t be sure which bushings need to be loosened and retightened.

I have noticed a difference in the ride height primarily on the drivers side when it’s full of fuel. So next time I have a chance I’ll have someone measure with a full tank of fuel and me in it.

Would you recommend upgrading to an aftermarket sway bar to avoid the issues you mentioned? I doubt the shop adjusted that when they dropped the car. If so which ones?

Thanks again for the info.

My cars suspension has settled substantially since I made this post. I am happy with my ride height, but the side to side height is still off. I understand that is for weight balance to offset the driver on track, so I will leave it be since I do track my car.