160 degree T-STAT

[jsm00z28ss]

When I did my head and cam swap in my 2012 2SS I also changed over to a 160 t-stat. Before with the factory t-stat I would run between 200-210 around town and 189-194 on the NJ turnpike or Parkway. Now around town the car is 183-193 and 174-178 on the Parkway or Turnpike. I know its not really hot yet so I want to keep my eye on the temp.

[Kendall421]

Originally Posted by jsm00z28ss

When I did my head and cam swap in my 2012 2SS I also changed over to a 160 t-stat. Before with the factory t-stat I would run between 200-210 around town and 189-194 on the NJ turnpike or Parkway. Now around town the car is 183-193 and 174-178 on the Parkway or Turnpike. I know its not really hot yet so I want to keep my eye on the temp.

That is good feedback! Thanks! I know everyone says these LS motors run better hot. That may be somewhat true and the oil temp is far more a key in that given that is really the heat of the engine. Running around 180-190 is just fine for water temps. Heat stresses metal, period. So keeping it down a little on the water temp is good. If the oil is over 200, things are fine. On our 421CID Race motors (oval track) we used to run 200-205 water temp and about 240 oil temp. If water temp ever hit 240, I pulled off the track and shut the motor down. Rarely ever had that problem unless there was a problem with the cooling system or lower end. I cannot see a reason why these motors would benefit from water temps over 200.

[keith.wilkinson.10]

Originally Posted by jsm00z28ss

When I did my head and cam swap in my 2012 2SS I also changed over to a 160 t-stat. Before with the factory t-stat I would run between 200-210 around town and 189-194 on the NJ turnpike or Parkway. Now around town the car is 183-193 and 174-178 on the Parkway or Turnpike. I know its not really hot yet so I want to keep my eye on the temp.

Can't believe this thread is still going there are so many good points made so I hope it ends with this one. Just and FYI stock thermostat opens at 186.8 F. So it must be cold where you live. Don't forget this point 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup oil cold. Manufactures, auto and oil, have chosen to maintain a street car around 212 so the oil does it's best at this temp. Colder and the oil thickens causing greater wear on the engine. Also moisture evaporates faster the higher the temperature, so many short commutes with a low t-stat temps around 160 may never evaporate all the water leading to rust and emulsions.

Have a read... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

[Camaro Dude]

Originally Posted by keith.wilkinson.10

Can't believe this thread is still going there are so many good points made so I hope it ends with this one. Just and FYI stock thermostat opens at 186.8 F. So it must be cold where you live. Don't forget this point 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup oil cold. Manufactures, auto and oil, have chosen to maintain a street car around 212 so the oil does it's best at this temp. Colder and the oil thickens causing greater wear on the engine. Also moisture evaporates faster the higher the temperature, so many short commutes with a low t-stat temps around 160 may never evaporate all the water leading to rust and emulsions.

Have a read... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

There are indeed some good points in this thread, but alas no one has still ever answered the question, (unless I missed it in my haste), whether this 160 T-Stat, will make any measurable difference at all, on a road course driven car at consistent full/off WOT, after say a 20 min session?

Ok, let us re-summarize:

-It's quite clear by now, that on a "hot street driven" vehicle, almost set in stone really, that IT WILL make a difference, it will help lower coolant temps.

-It's very clear by now,that a low temp stat like the "The 160", is just plain silly for a short haul daily driver, that treads on severe service. Very silly.

-All out WOT 20 min session plz????

[willhe64]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Thermostat has only 2 purposes.
Hold the coolant in the block long enough to warm up and to hold the coolant in the radiator long enough to cool off.
If you pull it out then the one that's the most efficient will dictate coolant temp. If the engine can heat up the coolant faster than the radiator can cool it off its just going to heat and heat and heat.

Exactly this.You can't simply remove a thermostat, you have to add a restrictor in it's place. don't run a thermostat in my race car, but I still run a restrictor in place and the hole is about the size of a dime.

[Unreal]

Originally Posted by Camaro Dude

There are indeed some good points in this thread, but alas no one has still ever answered the question, (unless I missed it in my haste), whether this 160 T-Stat, will make any measurable difference at all, on a road course driven car at consistent full/off WOT, after say a 20 min session?

Ok, let us re-summarize:

-It's quite clear by now, that on a "hot street driven" vehicle, almost set in stone really, that IT WILL make a difference, it will help lower coolant temps.

-It's very clear by now,that a low temp stat like the "The 160", is just plain silly for a short haul daily driver, that treads on severe service. Very silly.

-All out WOT 20 min session plz????

No, all it will do is make the car take longer to heat up. It was make ZERO difference in cooling capacity for a road course car. Absolutely zero. A 160, 170, 180, etc will all be wide open in that application.

[Camaro Dude]

^^^thank you!^^^