[rotohead]

I'm in the process of adding the K&N cold air intake to my 2017 3.6L RS, I thinking of trying and old IAT resistor box from years gone by to fool the computer into thinking it colder that is thus the computer will either go rich or lean depending on the setting of the rheostat and advance or retard the timing.

[TJay74]

You are asking for more trouble than the gains. People have tried the IAT resistor mods for ages, been proven many times they don't work. Not sure why people want to trick the computer to think it is colder outside than it really is, it isn't just enrichment table it messes with, also affects a timing table as well.

[Megahurtz]

thats a terrible idea

[I`m Batman]

Won't your run the risk of getting knock at that point if the computer thinks that IAT is colder than it really is? Seems like a bad idea like others have said.

[cellsafemode]

You'll either run too lean and get knock due to the combustion chamber getting too hot or you'll run too rich and foul your catalytic converters - run too cool and fail to even combust all the fuel and just waste gas.

Why would anyone think this is a good idea? do they think the manufacturers are running an inefficient mix?

This sounds like something that was invented to jerry rig fix a problem they were having with some piece of crap car at some point in the past and it got passed around by word of mouth that seemed to work if what you were working on was old malfunctioning cars that you didn't want to properly fix.

Worse than the Tornado, because at least with that scam, as long as it didn't self destruct, it wasn't really going to hurt anything. I can't see how this hijacking of the af ratio idea couldn't negatively impact the car. It literally has no positive aspects.

[slick3]

Please no.

[rotohead]

Aftermarket Throttle Controllers runs off the IAT and the TPS, I'm doing the same thing just cleaner without the black box reading it, I can turn this one off do a reset and bingo it's gone, Cats were the first thing replaced with high flow, I live in a State without the silly azz inspections who tell you what you can't do to your car but can dump ethanol in your gas that plays heck with the engine.

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by rotohead

Aftermarket Throttle Controllers runs off the IAT and the TPS, I'm doing the same thing just cleaner without the black box reading it, I can turn this one off do a reset and bingo it's gone, Cats were the first thing replaced with high flow, I live in a State without the silly azz inspections who tell you what you can't do to your car but can dump ethanol in your gas that plays heck with the engine.

Have you ever looked at the calibration on the newer GM engines? There is a lot more to tuning now then there every was back in the 80's and 90's. So many tables all cross reference each other now. Plus the new LTx series engine controllers reference actual torque output in order to determine how much power/torque you get delivered when you step on the pedal.

The only way to fix any lag issues are via a custom calibration, no other way around that. No 3rd party black boxes are going to work miracles anymore.

[glenB]

Go ahead, do it no problem.

BTW, what model do you have maybe I could use some extra parts

[gringo]

It'll work, but you need a lower temp thermostat to make it work effectively. On my old truck, I spliced a 330 ohm resistor in the line leading to the IAT. Even during high outside temps, the truck always ran crisp, responsive and pulled hard.

Not sure about the LGX, but on the LFX you had to source another IAT sensor and mount it in a better location, like the air intake filter box, for it to read a more accurate temp versus the stock heatsoaked location at the MAF sensor.

[rotohead]

I was going with the 330 or 470 ohm that would put the temp around 165 to 175, I was going to move the sensor out of the air tube on the K&N, The thermostat is the hanging spot for now.

[glenB]

Originally Posted by rotohead

I was going with the 330 or 470 ohm that would put the temp around 165 to 175, I was going to move the sensor out of the air tube on the K&N, The thermostat is the hanging spot for now.

Why don't you just get a remote mount IAT sensor

https://www.vectormotorsports.com/sh...duction-kit-2/

[Snowblind]

I believe the ECU will not start to pull timing until it sees temps over 130 degrees. If you are keeping the stock intake box then you may not be reaching those temps anyways, the cold air design is pretty good at keeping hot engine air out.

What temps are you seeing now, are you logging them ?

How about your current A/F, what are you seeing there ? I would be careful with what you are trying to gain here...you have much more to lose imo. Spend the dough and get a REAL tune, it's really the best (and safest) way to do it.

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by Snowblind

I believe the ECU will not start to pull timing until it sees temps over 130 degrees. If you are keeping the stock intake box then you may not be reaching those temps anyways, the cold air design is pretty good at keeping hot engine air out.

What temps are you seeing now, are you logging them ?

How about your current A/F, what are you seeing there ? I would be careful with what you are trying to gain here...you have much more to lose imo. Spend the dough and get a REAL tune, it's really the best (and safest) way to do it.

You are incorrect, on the stock IAT table the ECM starts pulling timing at 85° at 1° of timing pull, by 120° it is pulling around 7°-8° of timing.

Wont do any good to remote mount the IAT, the MAF is damn near sitting inside of the airbox on the new LT1 setup.