[Joe's_cool_1le]

Good evening folks - This may or may not be related to my Whipple but wanted to put some feelers out there just in case. I've not made any upgrades for a couple years and it's been pretty solid but pulled out of the garage today and waited like normal for the water temp to heat up to idle down to get the cam rocking the car. Then all of a sudden I heard it stumble, engine light come on, then show reduce power. Right after that the car shut off.

I paused for a bit as a wondered WTH and then scanned the car and received the below codes. A couple things that stood out to me (not the codes). I noticed that the oil pressure showed around 50 at idle but normal for me is 35-40. Another was when you power the car accessories by holding down start for a few seconds without pressing not the clutch. I noticed that the Whipple water pump was not running. I also noticed that the fluid was low but wasn't a day ago. I added more fluid and recycled the system and still did not hear the Whipple water pump. I could lower the fluid by squeezing the hose and still able to add more.

other notes - No Leaks but I do see that the engine water reservoir seemed high on the top side. The oil is clean. No smoke from the engine or exhaust.

Could a Whipple pump failure cause some of the codes? Or could this be more of a fuse/wiring issue? I've researched most of the codes and saw the main one P06DB where people showed a possible wiring harness issue the belt but I couldn't see it from my vantage point. Hmm... Could there be a wiring harness issue that impacts the Whipple water pump and other symptons or could the Whipple water pump fail and create failure and codes to protect the car??? I think I need to go stay at a Holiday Inn Express!

I figured I put some questions out before I start to do the normal Joe process of tearing things apart, breaking things, then finally fixing it. It can be a great learning experience but man my wife would say something different. Haha

My thoughts to my next steps are to validate power to the Whipple pump, check the fuses, wiring harness ****** then start the carnage.



P06DB Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Low

P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0050 HO2S Heater Control (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0051 H02S Heater Control Low (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0155 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0443 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve “A” Circuit

P0458 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Value Circuit Low

[Joshinator99]

The Whipple intercooler pump does not communicate with the cars ECM at all. It could flow 0 gallons per minute or 1000 (ok, not really lol) and the car has no idea. Now if the IC pump isn’t working your IATs would get very high under boost which the ECM would know…but I digress. TLDR, that isn’t the cause.

Hopefully a mouse didn’t get into your wiring…?

[Gunkk]

Burned harness from the pass side header?

[Joe's_cool_1le]

I did see a rodent that the dogs were chasing out back the other day lol. It could be the passenger side wiring harness too as I did fail to mention that I had to take apart the passenger fender to get to my Alky meth pump to tighten up some fittings about three weeks ago. Pretty easy process but I was on that side. I do need to validate if I'm sending power to Whipple pump from that fuse box connection then start back tracking. Just odd that I noticed low Whipple fluid, pump not working working, after receiving the codes and reduced power. I'm sure it will all make sense once I the onion is fully peeled.

Truly appreciate the help

[toohighpsi]

Check fuses, all of those faults (except for the oil) could be caused by a loss of 12v power to the sensors, and its possible that they are all powered by the same fuse.

[Joe's_cool_1le]

The plot thickens - Went to start testing the fuses as saw that my battery was now completely dead. Once I got some juice I started checking the fuses and found one that isn't working and will pop once replaced. F63 Non-walk/O2 sensor hmmm

The below is what I was able to pull off of wiring management -


If the below is right and it includes the LT1 then could only be Q12 Evaporative Emission Purge SolenoidVa l v e or the Q44 Engine Oil Pressure Control SolenoidVa l v e since the others specifically reference LTG and LGX right?

F63 NON WALK O2F63UA15A
B52A Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 (LTG)
B52C Heated Oxygen Sensor - Bank 1Sensor 1 (-LTG)
B52E Heated Oxygen Sensor - Bank 1Sensor 2 (-LTG)
K20 Engine Control Module (LGX/LTG)
Q12 Evaporative Emission Purge SolenoidVa l v e
Q40 Turbocharger Bypass Solenoid Valve(LTG)Q42 Turbocharger Wastegate SolenoidVa l v e ( LTG )
Q44 Engine Oil Pressure Control SolenoidVa l v e
Q84A Camshaft Position Actuator ParkLock Solenoid Valve - Bank 1 Intake (LGX)
Q84B Camshaft Position Actuator ParkLock Solenoid Valve - Bank 2 Intake (LGX)

[Joe's_cool_1le]

I've got the car pretty much disassembled so I have access to the all of the wiring, relays, and the IC pump.

Quick question - If I was to have the car turned off and connect relay connections 30 (which is hot) and 87 together wouldn't that then supply power to the IC pump?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Joe's_cool_1le

I've got the car pretty much disassembled so I have access to the all of the wiring, relays, and the IC pump.

Quick question - If I was to have the car turned off and connect relay connections 30 (which is hot) and 87 together wouldn't that then supply power to the IC pump?

Yes it would.

[Joe's_cool_1le]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Yes it would.

Thanks Josh

Well I guess I'm making a bit of progress. The pump did not power on when I jumped those two points so I pulled the connection on the actual pump and was not receiving any voltage. I then saw in that diagram where 85 connects to the EVAP wiring and I had that connection disconnected as I was isolating everything. Once I plugged in the EVAP connection it popped the the relay 10A Fuse on the diagram. I also disconnected the EVAP connection from the EVAP purge sensor and it popped again. Only until I disconnected the first connection from that splice to EVAP did it not pop.

I see that on the physical relay the wires are red, red, yellow, and black with connections 30 and 87 being the red ones. However on the pump connection side the wires are yellow and black. So where that connection splices between the pump wires and the EVAP ones it must switch up but I'll have to take apart that junction to verify.

I was hoping that I could at least rule out the IC pump even with the EVAP connection being disconnected so that I can narrow it down a bit better.

Fun times. It's funny though as I look at the car torn down how it could be a great opportunity to just upgrade to the 3.0. Not that it would fix my problem though. haha

[Joshinator99]

Sounds like a short in the relay to me…?

[Joe's_cool_1le]

I was actually able to get the IC Pump to work by connecting 30 and 87 wires directly. Had my bad eyes on last night. I'll have to double check tomorrow after letting this battery recharge that having this IC Pump relay disconnected the F63 Non-walk/O2 sensor blows as soon as you key the car to accessary.

I also noticed the list of codes are down to mainly the below 3.

P06DB Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Low
P0443 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve “A” Circuit
P0458 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Value Circuit Low

I also disconnect the EVAP Purge that plugs that connects to the Whipple and Engine Oil Pressure sensor (under the front of the Whipple below pulley) and keyed it to accessory and it popped the F63 fuse.

I might need to get me a wiring diagram.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Joe's_cool_1le

I was actually able to get the IC Pump to work by connecting 30 and 87 wires directly. Had my bad eyes on last night. I'll have to double check tomorrow after letting this battery recharge that having this IC Pump relay disconnected the F63 Non-walk/O2 sensor blows as soon as you key the car to accessary.

I also noticed the list of codes are down to mainly the below 3.

P06DB Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Low
P0443 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve “A” Circuit
P0458 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Value Circuit Low

I also disconnect the EVAP Purge that plugs that connects to the Whipple and Engine Oil Pressure sensor (under the front of the Whipple below pulley) and keyed it to accessory and it popped the F63 fuse.

I might need to get me a wiring diagram.

Oh, then it’s not the IC pump relay then. I wonder if there’s a short in the EVAP purge solenoid. Try disconnecting that and see if the fuse pops?

[Joe's_cool_1le]

I've made some more progress.

Only when plugging in the below connector which looks to be feeding up to the Oil Pressure Solenoid and (cam sensor?) does it blow the fuse for F63 when turning the car to power accessaries.

Also uploading a picture of those connectors - I'd like to disconnect that left one which I believe is the oil pressure solenoid but I think someone may need to let me know what Jedi mind trick I need to do after sliding up the white tab to get it off.

Or maybe now that I have the lower connection disconnected I could check each pin out but I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram just yet.

[Joe's_cool_1le]

While facing the harness side connector with the red tab up I’ll pin them out with the top row closes to the red tab as 1-4 and the bottom row being 5-8.

1 Blue 2 Green 3 Yellow 4 White
5 empty 6 purple 7 green 8 purple


Car off with a volt tester

Only reading was on pin 4 which was a flashing - 3.5

Car turned on accessory mode

When hitting pin 2 I can hear something actuating under the car
Pin 4 which was flashing -3.5
Pin 6 had 12 volts

Uploading some photos for reference.