03-16-2014, 06:47 PM | #1 |
Centerforce Clutch durability
I burned up my stock clutch after 60,000+ miles and had a Centerforce DF593010 installed last Sept. Now, less than 10,000 miles since that replacement, the replacement clutch is starting to slip. As you can tell with the mileage, I drive my car a lot so I need something that does well primarily on the street but can survive a few track runs through the season. I've done some bolt-ons but nothing that should have worn this clutch out so much faster than the stock one, my last dyno was 419hp / 419tq.
So, I'm wondering what kind of lifespan others are seeing from this clutch. I don't want to simply buy an new disc and burn that up in another 6 months but, it is a great feeling clutch and I don't want a bad experience to drive me to another brand if this was a fluke. |
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03-16-2014, 07:13 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 2ss 6 speed Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NEW BRUNSWICK CANADA
Posts: 328
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DYAD
centerforce DYAD Part Number04614842
I just finished puttinq this in today. they qet qood reviews.... i will see |
03-16-2014, 10:24 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Dallas, TX!
Posts: 290
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Interested in hearing about this too...will be putting a new clutch in soon myself. This is what LG Motorsports recommended to me over the ZL1 clutch. Supposed to be pretty durable from what they told me. This seems surprising that you don't have very many miles on it. Who installed the clutch?
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03-16-2014, 11:08 PM | #4 |
Eh, that'll happen
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,841
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I have a dual friction in my '69 Camaro and havent had any issues with it. Was going to put one in this car. Maybe Ill wait to see what comes of your situation....
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2010 Camaro SS LS3 - No Modz
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03-17-2014, 08:22 AM | #5 |
Now I'm torn. I can get a new disc for this clutch, which is supposed to have good street durability based on research plus feedback, and hope for the best or go for a Spec Stage 2 which some people swear by and others despise. Spec has confirmed that their clutch is compatible with my Centerforce flywheel so the cost wouldn't be too steep to make a switch.
The one bonus of going with something other than the Centerforce would be getting a bell housing without the weights, those things chatter like crazy at 30 MPH, but when it grabs it grabs hard and feels good. There is the option of going back to stock, the first one did hold up through some abuse and from what I'm reading around C5 those are good for more torque than this car will ever likely see. Whatever I do, it's getting ordered before the end of the day so hopefully it can be installed within a week. |
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03-23-2014, 10:50 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 2ss ss/rs abm, 2016 2ss/rs hbm Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: N. Phx, Az
Posts: 1,332
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I have the Centerforce DYAD twin in mine for 81k now, with over 50 track days and a lot of abuse with no issues. And I am putting down between 650-700 rwhp depending on which tune I am running.
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URR2SLO - If you're not going fast enough, get out the way......
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03-24-2014, 11:01 AM | #7 |
50 Shades of Prey
Drives: TT/SS Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Between 10 and 20 PSI
Posts: 777
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out of curiosity, do you plan on making more power? If not, why not just go back with the stock clutch? it lasted 60,000 miles and is by far the cheapest clutch to buy.
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Futral Motorsports built and tuned
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03-24-2014, 04:46 PM | #8 |
I ended up going with a Spec Stage 2 after some advice from a friend who deals with clutches and transmissions for a living.
When they pulled the bad one out, a couple of things were found. 1- a bolt had sheared off and the head of that bolt rattling around was likely what I heard rattling, not the Centerforce weights. 2- the pressure plate is what went bad, there was plenty of material left of the disc. I'm not making enough power to need something other than the stock clutch but since it was already getting pulled out and I got a great price on the Centerforce, I went with it. For the Spec replacement, since the Centerforce flywheel is still good I only needed the clutch itself and the price for that (from a site that's not a sponsor here) wasn't a big leap from the stock one so coming recommended from a guy who knows his stuff and with the price being right that was the chosen route. I'm in the break-in period now and it's painful having to drive like I've got a bunch of Faberge eggs in the car but I don't want to prematurely cook another one. The big difference I've noticed so far was that Centerforce had a good amount of resistance when stepping on the clutch compared to the Spec which is effortless. It seems good but I'll have to bide my time until I can open it up and see how it really feels. Last edited by hysonmb; 03-29-2014 at 07:14 PM. |
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03-28-2014, 05:07 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,019
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I've always been a centerforce guy and when I worked at a speed shop about 10 years ago out if all the centerforces I sold I never had to warranty one. Spec is right up the road from me and I do like to support local businesses but when you've had such good luck out of a brand its hard to switch lol. I will more than likely go with Spec but hadn't made up my mind yet.
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Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X |
03-29-2014, 04:56 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 2ss 6 speed Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NEW BRUNSWICK CANADA
Posts: 328
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DYAD
SOME PICS OF MY INSTALL THOUGHT I WOULD POST A FEW |
09-15-2014, 02:44 PM | #11 |
Dyno Show Queen LOL
Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,345
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09-15-2014, 07:26 PM | #12 |
SparkyDL75
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I have been running the Centerforce DYAD for about 6 months now and love it. It hooks up great and will hold almost twice the amount of torque my car is producing.
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2010 CGM 2SS/RS M6 LS3 Black/Gray
Exterior American Racing BLVD Black w/Machined(20x10) Mickey Thompson Street Comps(275/40 & 305/35) Suspension Pedders Pace Car Pkg w/ZL1 Upgrade; Pedders Upper & Lower Control Arm, Steering, & Differential Mount Bushings; Pedders SS Brake Lines; Pedders Dual Bearing Camber Plates; ZL1 Toe Link; Hawk Performance Ceramic brake pads Drivetrain Maggie2300(8psi-3.4pulley); CompCam; 85lb injectors; ZL1 fuel pump; ZR1 MAP; Centerforce DYAD Twin Disc clutch; Stainless Works LT headers; QTP Cutouts; Rotofab intake; RX catch can; Mike Norris tune 643rwhp 598 rwtq |
09-19-2014, 01:25 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 2ss ss/rs abm, 2016 2ss/rs hbm Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: N. Phx, Az
Posts: 1,332
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I ran the Centerforce DYAD prototype for 87k and 4 years at around the 700 rwhp level, just replaced it with a regular production DYAD as they wanted it back to evaluate it. The production unit has a lot of improvements over their prototype, the pedal feel is better than stock and not stiff at all. I had no complaints about the prototype, but really like the production version. you cant go wrong with it.
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URR2SLO - If you're not going fast enough, get out the way......
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09-23-2014, 05:17 PM | #14 |
Dyno Show Queen LOL
Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,345
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I don't plan on 1/4 or 1/8 th mile runs I got 65K on clutch and, it's still hanging in unless I'm in like 3rd or 4th applying alot of rpm. My question is I was going to buy a LS1 flywheel from jegs and bolt the dual friction centerforce on it. With these and a, new slave can probably do it for 800.00 or so. Is there any reason why I can't use a LS1/LS6 flywheel instead of the centerforce flywheel that's 300 more?
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