[BlkCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by awrj2000

I had the transmission shutter from 11,000 miles to 23,000 miles. 3 trips to the dealer and each ended with "couldn't replicate the problem"

After seeing several posts like this I am glad I fixed it myself. I did an external 5 micron filter in place of lower trans cooler and idle for 30 min while shifting gears and sitting still. Then dropped the pan and placed a new filter and filled with Amsoil trans fluid...

Bottom line is GM F***ed up the fluid and caused problems...Begged Mobil to help fix the issue and now Mobil taken over oil and trans fluid.

I was really surprised 23,000 miles and the fluid looked like black water.

So far no issues and a little firmer shifting.


Now to your issues: Changing the Torque converter does not help with the poor fluid design.

Changing part of the fluid won't solve this either, why the triple flush is recommended.
I doubt the dealer used the new Mobil fluid and in all truth a single sale to the dealer is very small to them, so your car means little.

The AC Fan issue is likely a battery failing along with other electrical issues. This low voltage condition may also deal with latest traction control as well.

Floating? ?? magnetic ride ? My best guess is during trans change the dealer loosened the rear end (for some unknown reason) and you now have a major alignment issue.

Edit: Should have read page 2...

Different tire sizes will cause traction control issues and it does take time before they start showing up. My 2012 Camaro (v6) I changed the back tires only and it was about 2000 miles later the traction control came on at every turn and went to reduced power mode. Front changed and problem solved.

Thanks for chiming in.

Sorry to hear you were having the shuddering but glad you managed to fix it. If i was tech savvy i would attempt it as well but since i'm not it leaves me with relying on the dealer.

Were the tires you changed just different on width or height as well? Mine were 275/35/20 before and the ones on there are 285/35/20 (just the width changed), and they are the Michellin PS4S which were highly recommended as the best performing tires to put on the car so i went with them.

From my understanding you changed your rear tires from the original and then saw TC issues, but then changed your front and it went away?

[BlkCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by Ecchi667

I guess an easy way to determine if the rear tyres are the issue would be to tell them to prove it. They can put some stock wheels on the back with the stock tyres and see if the issues remain. If they do, then it isn't the tyres.

I've run 275/40R20 SUV tyres on the rear with no issues and am currently running 285/35R20 GT500 tyres on the rear with no issues. I have 255/35R20 on the front. Stock wheels. However, I do have a six speed car, so do not suffer any TC issues.

The 285/35r20 tyres I have on the back are track tyres, and have zero grip when cold, so they do spin a lot in these current colder months - they've never set a code off, though. Then again, I do turn traction control off - I'm not sure if that would make a difference.

Where in Florida are you? I may be down in the New Smyrna Beach area next weekend for Easter - I'd be happy to see what this "floaty" feeling is and compare it with my car. We could even try your rear wheels on my car for... science?

Cheers!

Thanks for your input.

Mine are also original on the front and also 285/35/20 on the rear like yours (Michellin PS4S) and had great grip previously, i'm not sure what changed after the transmission replacement. If i was to turn off traction like you do i would probably not be able to drive mine normally as i do.

I've also seen people go 305-315 and haven't heard of TC issues previously, even on that sizing but it may be a luck thing.

I'm located in Tampa, looks like about 2 1/2 hours or so from New Smyrna Beach.

[Ecchi667]

Originally Posted by BlkCamaroSS

Thanks for your input.

Mine are also original on the front and also 285/35/20 on the rear like yours (Michellin PS4S) and had great grip previously, i'm not sure what changed after the transmission replacement. If i was to turn off traction like you do i would probably not be able to drive mine normally as i do.

I've also seen people go 305-315 and haven't heard of TC issues previously, even on that sizing but it may be a luck thing.

I'm located in Tampa, looks like about 2 1/2 hours or so from New Smyrna Beach.

Ah yep, Tampa is west coast, New Smyrna is east coast.

By floaty I'm assuming you mean slippery? Like the rear is constantly riding on ice? When your tyres were gripping well, was the weather considerably warmer? Have you tried altering the tyre pressures to see if that makes a difference? What are the pressures at now? Have you checked the tread for nails/stones or other damage?

Is it feeling like the throttle input is much higher than what you are applying? I use a throttle controller on my car, and having that makes for a much more aggressive throttle - maybe if the electronics are somehow boosting your throttle signal input, then that's where things are going awry for you.

Something easy you can try: open the trunk and pop the little side panel off the passenger side inner. That's where the battery is. Now unscrew the negative cable from the battery, pull it away from the terminal, and leave it to sit for thirty minutes or so. Leave the trunk un-latched (the electronics won't work without the battery connected, so unlocking it also won't work from the outside). Reconnect the battery and go for a drive. See if it makes any difference to the "floaty" feeling.

[Lafourche1]

Originally Posted by BlkCamaroSS

Thanks for chiming in.

Sorry to hear you were having the shuddering but glad you managed to fix it. If i was tech savvy i would attempt it as well but since i'm not it leaves me with relying on the dealer.

Were the tires you changed just different on width or height as well? Mine were 275/35/20 before and the ones on there are 285/35/20 (just the width changed), and they are the Michellin PS4S which were highly recommended as the best performing tires to put on the car so i went with them.

From my understanding you changed your rear tires from the original and then saw TC issues, but then changed your front and it went away?

Between tire brands, tires showing the same size (275/35/20, etc.) may have different ODs (Outside Diameter). Same goes for contact patch or tread width on pavement. Not all 275 tires are the same width. Another thing to remember is that the second number is "aspect ratio". A 285/35/20 has a different OD (larger) than a 275/35/20 tire.

Use Tire Rack charts and see what the ODs and revolutions per mile are for each tire. Also, keep in mind that tire OD changes with wear. So a brand new 275/35/20 has a larger OD than a corded out 275/35/20 tire. There has to be enough tolerance within the electronics to at least allow for these types of differences. Mostly everything falls within a 5%-10% range of tolerance.

For example: If your tire makes 775 revolutions per mile and you change to a tire that make 740 revolutions per mile (maybe the same size tire from different manufacturers), your electronics should stand those variations.

These are street cars and street tires, not Formula 1 machines and tires.

[awrj2000]

Originally Posted by BlkCamaroSS

Thanks for chiming in.

Sorry to hear you were having the shuddering but glad you managed to fix it. If i was tech savvy i would attempt it as well but since i'm not it leaves me with relying on the dealer.

Were the tires you changed just different on width or height as well? Mine were 275/35/20 before and the ones on there are 285/35/20 (just the width changed), and they are the Michellin PS4S which were highly recommended as the best performing tires to put on the car so i went with them.

From my understanding you changed your rear tires from the original and then saw TC issues, but then changed your front and it went away?

On the 2012 model, I ended up trading it for 2016 2SS, so this is from memory.

The back tires were shot and the front was about 50% left (I don't know how that happens )

I replaced the back with stock size tires at the time and all was fine. Like you I had plenty of tread on the front so kept them.

It was about 2,000 miles later the traction control started having fits...front maybe 40% back still 98%.

When I shut the car off at the house and restarted all was normal. Within 10-20 miles "Service StabiliTrack" came up and "Reduced engine power" came up.

This would stay until the car was shut off. Only way to really move was to take the auto into manual mode and manually shift...still barely run.

Shut car off and start over.

Changed front tires to stock, new tread, and all was well.

About the only other suggestion I have for you is to try placing the car in a different driving mode:

Tour - narrow band for TC
Sport - medium band for TC
Track - wide band for TC

Moving to sport mode may allow more variance without setting TC alarms.
It would be a temp. fix and not real sure if you can validate anything if the problem still occurs.

[BlkCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by Ecchi667

Ah yep, Tampa is west coast, New Smyrna is east coast.

By floaty I'm assuming you mean slippery? Like the rear is constantly riding on ice? When your tyres were gripping well, was the weather considerably warmer? Have you tried altering the tyre pressures to see if that makes a difference? What are the pressures at now? Have you checked the tread for nails/stones or other damage?

Is it feeling like the throttle input is much higher than what you are applying? I use a throttle controller on my car, and having that makes for a much more aggressive throttle - maybe if the electronics are somehow boosting your throttle signal input, then that's where things are going awry for you.

Something easy you can try: open the trunk and pop the little side panel off the passenger side inner. That's where the battery is. Now unscrew the negative cable from the battery, pull it away from the terminal, and leave it to sit for thirty minutes or so. Leave the trunk un-latched (the electronics won't work without the battery connected, so unlocking it also won't work from the outside). Reconnect the battery and go for a drive. See if it makes any difference to the "floaty" feeling.

Correct, i mean it feels slippery and unable to grip even at low acceleration and not flooring it or pressing it aggressively. There is a road out of my neighborhood that i used to floor it on previously just to enjoy the sound, and if i do that now the car slips significantly and is nowhere near how it was before. I've put the car up to ~140 before with no problems and the grip was great. Now, on the same road, if i go 90-100 i have to stop as the car feels very unstable (not sure exactly how to explain it but i feel if i keep going up the car will lose control).

Thanks for the battery tip, i'll definitely give it a try in about an hour and report back to see if anything changes.

[BlkCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by Lafourche1

Between tire brands, tires showing the same size (275/35/20, etc.) may have different ODs (Outside Diameter). Same goes for contact patch or tread width on pavement. Not all 275 tires are the same width. Another thing to remember is that the second number is "aspect ratio". A 285/35/20 has a different OD (larger) than a 275/35/20 tire.

Use Tire Rack charts and see what the ODs and revolutions per mile are for each tire. Also, keep in mind that tire OD changes with wear. So a brand new 275/35/20 has a larger OD than a corded out 275/35/20 tire. There has to be enough tolerance within the electronics to at least allow for these types of differences. Mostly everything falls within a 5%-10% range of tolerance.

For example: If your tire makes 775 revolutions per mile and you change to a tire that make 740 revolutions per mile (maybe the same size tire from different manufacturers), your electronics should stand those variations.

These are street cars and street tires, not Formula 1 machines and tires.

Thanks for the explanation, i'll definitely check out the Tire Rack charts.

[BlkCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by awrj2000

On the 2012 model, I ended up trading it for 2016 2SS, so this is from memory.

The back tires were shot and the front was about 50% left (I don't know how that happens )

I replaced the back with stock size tires at the time and all was fine. Like you I had plenty of tread on the front so kept them.

It was about 2,000 miles later the traction control started having fits...front maybe 40% back still 98%.

When I shut the car off at the house and restarted all was normal. Within 10-20 miles "Service StabiliTrack" came up and "Reduced engine power" came up.

This would stay until the car was shut off. Only way to really move was to take the auto into manual mode and manually shift...still barely run.

Shut car off and start over.

Changed front tires to stock, new tread, and all was well.

About the only other suggestion I have for you is to try placing the car in a different driving mode:

Tour - narrow band for TC
Sport - medium band for TC
Track - wide band for TC

Moving to sport mode may allow more variance without setting TC alarms.
It would be a temp. fix and not real sure if you can validate anything if the problem still occurs.

Thanks for your input, i'll keep that in mind and also try changing modes to see if there is any difference.

[cleoent]

Get your alignment checked!

[ninetres]

Originally Posted by Lafourche1

Between tire brands, tires showing the same size (275/35/20, etc.) may have different ODs (Outside Diameter). Same goes for contact patch or tread width on pavement. Not all 275 tires are the same width. Another thing to remember is that the second number is "aspect ratio". A 285/35/20 has a different OD (larger) than a 275/35/20 tire.

Use Tire Rack charts and see what the ODs and revolutions per mile are for each tire. Also, keep in mind that tire OD changes with wear. So a brand new 275/35/20 has a larger OD than a corded out 275/35/20 tire. There has to be enough tolerance within the electronics to at least allow for these types of differences. Mostly everything falls within a 5%-10% range of tolerance.

For example: If your tire makes 775 revolutions per mile and you change to a tire that make 740 revolutions per mile (maybe the same size tire from different manufacturers), your electronics should stand those variations.

These are street cars and street tires, not Formula 1 machines and tires.

^^^This saved me some writing. That “35” in your two tire choices represents a percentage of the width. So the 285s are in fact taller, and that difference in height can absolutely effect the trans and TC system. Strange that it seemed to be okay for a while, and started all of the sudden. I’m not saying the tire height is FOR SURE the cause of any issues.....just saying the dealer isn’t out of line requesting the correct tire size be installed to accurately diagnose your issues. It also proves your tire store manager is an idiot if he didn’t properly explain the tires are different height.

Keep us posted!

[covertpetersen]

I've been in the market for a 2018 A8 Camaro SS lately but now I'm concerned about all of the things I'm reading regarding the transmission. Are the issues wide spread enough that I should seriously reconsider that purchase?

[Ecchi667]

Originally Posted by covertpetersen

I've been in the market for a 2018 A8 Camaro SS lately but now I'm concerned about all of the things I'm reading regarding the transmission. Are the issues wide spread enough that I should seriously reconsider that purchase?

I love my 2016 2SS M6 - I wouldn't want anything different right now. However, I feel it fits very well with the six speed. I don't know how I'd feel about the A8. The A8 on my Charger was fine, but that was a highway cruiser. For something that can carve corners, the manual feels perfect. If you can drive stick, it might be worth test driving both.

In terms of reliability, I think you're just unlucky if you have an issue. Chances are you'll be fine and love it.

[BlkCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by cleoent

Get your alignment checked!

Thanks for chiming in. I mentioned it to the dealer and they said the alignment is fine, hmm.

[BlkCamaroSS]

Originally Posted by ninetres

^^^This saved me some writing. That “35” in your two tire choices represents a percentage of the width. So the 285s are in fact taller, and that difference in height can absolutely effect the trans and TC system. Strange that it seemed to be okay for a while, and started all of the sudden. I’m not saying the tire height is FOR SURE the cause of any issues.....just saying the dealer isn’t out of line requesting the correct tire size be installed to accurately diagnose your issues. It also proves your tire store manager is an idiot if he didn’t properly explain the tires are different height.

Keep us posted!

Thanks for your input. It's indeed strange. While there is the issue with the TC that came up now, the main issue with the car has been the shuddering and there have been ~8 repair attempts for it with no luck. Even if they find a solution for the TC i'm not sure if they will be able to fix the shuddering but i will definitely keep you posted.