[ninetres]

Originally Posted by Boosted4life

I only see the needle go barely past the 3rd mark so my calculation 8psi but I'm also at 7200 feet elevation so I would guess due to the air density it would be normal to be a few psi under sea level.

Your math is wrong. There are 4 sections between 0-15psi. Each chunk represents 3.75psi. So if you are past the third line (into the final chunk before 15 psi....you are over 11.25psi.

(Assuming this is a true accurate gauge.....not a dummy gauge)

[Retro69]

What does the service manual call for ? Anyone have access to a manual?


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[Boosted4life]

Sorry I was wrong. It was barely over the SECOND line not the third so I believe math is correct.

If you watch the video Hennessy posted with a STOCK zl1 running to 170mph you will notice the boost ranges almost to the 3rd mark and sometimes touching it. That is at sea level. Approx 10-11psi. Mine at 7200 feet elevation is barely over the second mark (8 psi) with the barometric pressure being 11.7 where I'm at vs 14.7 at sea level 3 psi difference would make sense.

[ninetres]

In regards to how the car struggles to idle without the filter:

When my car was in the dyno we pointed a larger fan toward the filter (instead of at the radiator opening through the Grill.....and the car started to spudder and miss lol. The MAF is definitely very sensitive.

[Tampabucs4]

What did you dyno?

[Badmojo]

I haven't made it to the track, but I picked up something. Thank you sir.

Originally Posted by Lt1z350

Damn I have stired up quite a conversation here guys. I am happy I am seeing a lot of you see gains off a simple over look by the factory. The lt4 is rated at 650 hp on 9.4 lbs of boost so the fact that everyone doing this is seeing 11-12 psi on the gauge which is what I see in my logs 180-190 kpa then I will say it seems the factory was bleeding some possibly on purpose. The problem doing it is still creating the heat of 10-13 psi then bleeding to 9 ish so heat soaking the manifold just to reduce the boost. Would have been smarter to pulley it down some of that was the intention. So saying it lol that I would say it’s not intended as your creating extra heat for no reason. Many are going to pulleys just to be at 12-14 psi so once I get my tune in the car I will be curious with no torque management dumping any at all and holding wot will it hold 190 and up kpa. If so I am saving people a bunch of money to hit that same 12-14 psi. I know some are going over that when run a 18 percent overdrive crank pulley and say 2.38 upper but that’s over spinning this thing so bad it’s just creating tons of heat and probably hurting power more then helping. I know the lsa blower at 1.9 was out of its efficiency range about 15 psi and some ran 18 on them with tons of meth and ice tanks but the issue is the volume of air at that point. Becomes a heat pump more then making any more power. I know on these 12 at first was what many said as max but 15 now pretty common. So if a tune and a sealed door is getting us 12-14 that’s pretty damn good in my book and move on to other mods rather then 800 bucks in pulleys.
I cannot wait for just one of you seeing an increase on the factory gauge to make it back to the track. If you guys seeing an increase all start running in the low 11s@126-130 I’ll be fricking ecstatic that I got guys that had low slips running where the car should be at.
So if that’s the case and anyone feels like helping contribute to my further t&d on my car I’ll accept gifts and money. LOL
I know some have criticized my findings on the whole bolt ons working or not but this is all about passing on what I have learned to help the community here.
Right now debating the weaponx 5 inch cai so that way I don’t have to buy a second on when go to the whipple as learned on the lsa that over 1000 whp your giving up a lot with a cold air built to work on a stock tune. If it works on these cars with a stock tune throttle body or cai it’s because it isn’t flowing much more then factory so won’t throw a code set a cel as the window is so small to work in why it closes the throttle or dumps boost so fast when makes more power. So going to a cai that’s a tune only setup that means it flowing so much more then factory.
Anyone tried pulling the air filter off and closing the stock box make sure it’s sealed then run the car? It won’t idle worth a crap. Starts surging and trying to stall. That little bit more it is flowing just pisses off the whole system. I was going to run mine that way last time at the track to see if could pick up the few mph to break 132 and was afraid to try it ran so bad. My 1992 I could pull the filter out and run 3 mph faster the cars are just too smart now. It actually has a parameter for air filter loss in the tune. For the efficiency of the filter and assembly. On the ats when I ran a custom cai I built I had to change that with maf settings just to get it to run right in the end was worth 3-5 mph on that little 4 cylinder turbo over the stock box and a custom pipe to turbo. I did all my own tuning on that as no one would touch it with the custom over sized stock frame turbo I was running so was forced to learn that system which is similar to this one. Just trying to help those that don’t know learn it I know I enjoy reading and learning more when’d I can on something I own and spent a lot of money on. Lol
So if anyone makes it to the track soon let me know the outcome. Some cars are too slow stock and I think this is the common reason for the inconsistency between a lot of the cars and not just a track to track or weather and da thing causing some to be so down on mph. The GM claim of 127 should be reached my every car is my opinion on it. That’s in average conditions as they make claims at 80 degrees I believe I saw on the corvette side when setting track records or advertising performance claims.
Keep it up I like reading about guys seeing more boost!!!

[ninetres]

Originally Posted by Tampabucs4

What did you dyno?

567whp/615wtq Mustang Load dyno calibrated by Mustang a month before the pull.

KN intake
Mamo TB
2-3/4” X pipe
2nd cat delete
Corsa Xtreme Axleback

[Fraxum]

Wow this mod is so easy on the LT4 versus the LSA. Less than 60 seconds. Not that the LSA adjustment was like putting in a cam, but on the LT4 it's right out front and just waiting for your attention in the open air.

Mine was a 1/4 turn too tight, but I haven't been able to open it up in 40 degree F weather and only 250 on the odo. So I wont notice a gain. But once I get to the track I hope to see low 11s if I can figure out how to launch this beast with another 1-2 PSI on the stock greasy Goodyears.

And thanks Cal for the cooling off then adjust tip. But then since it is warm when running then isn't it best to adjust warm? Or maybe the paper width is the warm tolerance allowance.

And I would love to avoid a pulley just to get an occasional 10.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

...
And thanks Cal for the cooling off then adjust tip. But then since it is warm when running then isn't it best to adjust warm? Or maybe the paper width is the warm tolerance allowance.

And I would love to avoid a pulley just to get an occasional 10.

I think I suggested in post #47 adjusting when it's warm and leaving at least some preload so you don't end up with a stuck valve and/or premature heat soak. The "cool off" note was in another post as a reference to my break-in procedure after my full throttle runs.

--Cal

[Android42019]

Looking for my Allen wrenches atm but this sure seems like it’s pushing a bit, should it be touching enough that it leaves a mark or just enough to keep a piece of paper from sliding through? It definitely hasn’t felt quite as spunky since the warranty work, would they have adjusted this setting deliberately?

[sengli]

I adjusted mine and noticed nothing. The seat o pants meter says, no change. Its time to trade.

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by ZL1 1LE

Is there a reference in the service manual for this adjustment?

I couldn't find any. All it says is that it is factory set and don't adjust it.

[ZL1 1LE]

Originally Posted by Russell James

I couldn't find any. All it says is that it is factory set and don't adjust it.

Thanks!

[VAZL1]

Originally Posted by Lt1z350

I went on gm global si this morning and no specifics what so ever on it. SO I did one better I reached out to eaton directly to get the specific adjustment procedures. I got what I am doing now from the lsa/ls9 setting procedure and how lingenfelter says to set the lsa or ls9 boost bypass. So sure eaton will respond soon. Also any one that has owned a whipple or maggie knows this is how those are setup also. Same with any of the ford gt 500 blowers. They say the best way to do this is lid off so can be 100 percent sure that no leakage is happening and you check that with a flash light. Any leak what so ever besides bleeding off boost is creating excessive heat which is really power robbing on any blower. Im not twisting anyones arm to do this just telling you if its set the correct way the car will run better. Will not create as much heat and pull timing. It can only help so much on the stock tune but it will be max all the time without having so much loss by lower boost. more max torque is how I see it as the limits are scaled and affected by rpm. Any one that has gone tune only knows what I am saying when you first got the limits out of the way and with out any adders just let the car make all the power that it should be this is without any timing added or fuel taken Just eliminating torque management so the car can make all it possibly can with stock parts. I want do do a run tune only then add parts to it if possible. The 93 to e50 add cold air throttle body then headers last. Thats if can make it to the track a few times over the next month.

What's the max boost level for the stock tune? Just curious if some are seeing a 1 to 2 psi increase any chance they could be running lean without a custom tune.