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Old 07-25-2013, 04:35 PM   #1
Craig B
 
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Aluminum Driveshaft

What brand is everyone using? Who's got the best deal around? Looking to get 1 soon. Thanks
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:32 PM   #2
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I always here good things about the driveshaft shop. They have shafts ranging from $650-$1400.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...maro/2010-2011
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:41 PM   #3
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We recommend DSS as well. Feel free to call, PM or email us with questions or pricing.

Best regards,

Tyler
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:48 PM   #4
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For the record, JDP's prices are right inline with the prices listed at DSS. I'd go with them for the shear fact that they are a C5 vendor and they are just good guys to deal with. They will also make sure you're 100% satisfied with your purchase.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:44 PM   #5
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dss is best for parts and customer service
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axis View Post
For the record, JDP's prices are right inline with the prices listed at DSS. I'd go with them for the shear fact that they are a C5 vendor and they are just good guys to deal with. They will also make sure you're 100% satisfied with your purchase.
Thanks for the kind words Axis!
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Originally Posted by mhdragradial View Post
dss is best for parts and customer service
Indeed. DSS has always been right on the ball for us with warranty claims and they definitely take care of their customers!

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Old 07-25-2013, 06:56 PM   #7
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I have a DSS coming in soon.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:25 PM   #8
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would it make a noticeable 1/4 time upgrading to alum drivesht?
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:32 PM   #9
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would it make a noticeable 1/4 time upgrading to alum drivesht?
I'm thinking that it wont hurt.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:50 PM   #10
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I'm thinking that it wont hurt.
Depending on where you are in the modding process, that $650+ might be better spent elsewhere. A driveshaft isn't high on the "must need" list unless you're making some serious power.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:08 AM   #11
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Not thread jacking but at what HP level should you upgrade axles driveshafts and etc.?
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:29 AM   #12
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I'm not of the same mindset as the people who say you're fine. It's more of a "get it done" thing for me. If you're pushing 500HP, then start expecting things to break. You can fix it first, or after it breaks... your choice. I hate being stuck... so I would choose fix it first .
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thahemp View Post
I'm not of the same mindset as the people who say you're fine. It's more of a "get it done" thing for me. If you're pushing 500HP, then start expecting things to break. You can fix it first, or after it breaks... your choice. I hate being stuck... so I would choose fix it first .
I agree but we have no idea what the OP has, as far as mods go. That's why I said it depends on where he is in the modding process. $650+ is a large chunk of change that could be spent towards a cam, gears, headers, ect.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:30 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axis View Post
Depending on where you are in the modding process, that $650+ might be better spent elsewhere. A driveshaft isn't high on the "must need" list unless you're making some serious power.
If you can dead hook with slicks or drag radials, it might just be needed. Even more so with a manual trans. Keep in mind 3800 lbs + driver.
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