04-13-2014, 08:25 AM | #127 |
redleader
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DIY: Seafoam a Camaro LLT V6
My Oil is sooo clean all the time.
I only do a max of 3000 miles a year. The oil always looks clear like olive oil :-) Do I have to do the gas tank, sump part of this process followed by a full oil change, or can I just do the latter manifold processes only ?! Last edited by redleader; 04-13-2014 at 11:39 AM. |
04-13-2014, 08:48 AM | #128 | |
Drives: ELLE-1 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmington ,mo
Posts: 1,175
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seafoam
Quote:
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04-13-2014, 09:46 AM | #129 | |
Drives: Fastest 2010 Camaro V6 Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, OK
Posts: 3,571
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Quote:
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04-13-2014, 09:54 AM | #130 |
Drives: 2012 SIM 2LT/1970 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Near Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,578
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Even if you only do the intake manifold part, change your oil after.
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All bleeding stops eventually -- 2012 2LT Auto w/sunroof -- My journal thread
Roto-Fab Intake & W/W Relocate Kit -- ADM Race Scoop -- Dynomax VT Axle-Back Exhaust -- Vitesse Throttle Controller RX Catch Can -- Drake Bowtie Delete -- JacFab Radio Face Cover -- LED Fog Lights -- LED Dome/Trunk/Plate Lights -- Gen5DIY Dash ABL -- Diode Dynamics Cupholder Lighting Wishlist: ACS T5 Splitter -- Hood Vent Mod -- Footwell/Door Pull/Homelink Button Lighting |
04-13-2014, 11:42 AM | #131 |
redleader
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04-13-2014, 09:03 PM | #132 |
Drives: 2013 2LT RS Vert Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 18
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Can't_C_Me, can you post of video of this process? Thx
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04-14-2014, 06:20 AM | #133 |
Drives: Camaro Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NY
Posts: 154
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I did the process on saturday as it was on the video. It went well. Alot of smoke came out. Then i drove about 45 miles and performed an oil change with synthetic oil.
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04-14-2014, 07:41 AM | #134 |
Don't Sleep on My V6
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I was supposed to make a video awhile back lol. But I will make one soon now that it's warming up.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3
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04-17-2014, 02:35 PM | #135 |
redleader
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04-17-2014, 03:44 PM | #136 |
Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
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Hey, just to start spreading the correct word around... If you think about it, all the gunk that accumulates on the valves is oil and other particulates, right? It couldn't be carbon, of all things, in the intake tract. Also the point of the catch can?
People say they don't believe seafoam does anything for a carbon problem and it's correct because there is no carbon problem... but the oil and sludge, on the other hand... Btw. Seafoamed at 15k. Still running like brand new. Or better, obviously...
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K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler
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04-17-2014, 03:55 PM | #137 | |
Drives: 2012 SIM 2LT/1970 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Near Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,578
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Quote:
In the intake manifold it remains an oily sludge, but on the valves, it's burnt on crusty black stuff. When I Seafoamed mine, it removed some of the larger "carbon" pieces, but much remained, which required manual cleaning. So in my case, it helped some, but not enough to resolve the problem completely.
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All bleeding stops eventually -- 2012 2LT Auto w/sunroof -- My journal thread
Roto-Fab Intake & W/W Relocate Kit -- ADM Race Scoop -- Dynomax VT Axle-Back Exhaust -- Vitesse Throttle Controller RX Catch Can -- Drake Bowtie Delete -- JacFab Radio Face Cover -- LED Fog Lights -- LED Dome/Trunk/Plate Lights -- Gen5DIY Dash ABL -- Diode Dynamics Cupholder Lighting Wishlist: ACS T5 Splitter -- Hood Vent Mod -- Footwell/Door Pull/Homelink Button Lighting |
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04-17-2014, 04:01 PM | #138 |
Drives: 2013 SW 2LT/RS LFX/AY6 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,741
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Hm... Maybe I'll take my IM off within the next week.
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K&N CAI, 1LE Strut Tower Brace, Elite Engineering Catch Can and Clean Side Separator, Apex Scoop w/ Washer Relocation Kit, CTS Front Calipers and Rotors, JacFab Ported Intake Manifold, JacFab Intake Manifold Spacer, 80mm Overkill Throttle Body, SS Brake Lines, Ideal Garage Master Cylinder, Monster Twin Disc Clutch, NPP Retrofit w/ Magnaflow Resonated X, ARH Catless Downpipes, JRE Built 3.45 Diff, 1LE Axles, 1LE Hubs, Overkill Tuned, BMR Anti Wheel-hop Kit Stage I, ACS TL1 Hood Insert, ZL1 Spoiler
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04-17-2014, 09:08 PM | #139 |
Drives: 2011 RJT 2LT/RS Convertible Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Western Massachusetts
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Ok the scientific term for the build up on DI valves is coke. Coking occurs from petroleum being brought to high temperature. And when a petroleum base product is introduced to coke it will break it down. The IM sludge is just not brought above the coking temperature.
Keeping the oil off the valves, since there is no gasoline wash will help. Hence catch can Coke/carbon same basic chemical composition.
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05-18-2014, 12:46 PM | #140 |
Drives: 2012 2LT 45th anniversary Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 754
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Can you do this same method on an LFX? Does anyone have a DIY for the LFX if not?
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