[jaymsu]

I had one for C5 and I have one for C6 (w/ LS2) now.
I don't empty that out that often. I empty once a year or less, and I get probably 1-2 teaspoon each time, maybe. (about 4000 miles/year driving)
One of my friend who tracks with me (C5 with LS2 swap) empties out after every track day, and he gets about 3-4 teaspoon each time. I don't know what the difference is between his and mine.

[drivingagain]

Originally Posted by jaymsu

I had one for C5 and I have one for C6 (w/ LS2) now.
I don't empty that out that often. I empty once a year or less, and I get probably 1-2 teaspoon each time, maybe. (about 4000 miles/year driving)
One of my friend who tracks with me (C5 with LS2 swap) empties out after every track day, and he gets about 3-4 teaspoon each time. I don't know what the difference is between his and mine.

Well the harder you run it the greater percentage of oil. Also like I found out before depends on which side you put the catch can. From the link I provided it looks like every 3k miles on the dirty side if you are driving the car it should be removed and drained. Even some cars after 800 miles are getting more than a couple teaspoons.

[jaymsu]

Originally Posted by drivingagain

Well the harder you run it the greater percentage of oil. Also like I found out before depends on which side you put the catch can. From the link I provided it looks like every 3k miles on the dirty side if you are driving the car it should be removed and drained. Even some cars after 800 miles are getting more than a couple teaspoons.

That's what I thought and heard, but I don't know why mine's not collecting much. (I drive my car pretty hard on track. I do about 6-8 track days a year in advanced group when I have racing slicks. Without slicks, in group 2)
At first I took out the catch can after every track days, but it didn't really collect much.

Mine is installed on the passenger side, which I thought was the correct side..

[dragonZ28]

No 2 engines will be exactly the same. Engine wear, and build quality, can, and will, have an impact.

[drivingagain]

Originally Posted by jaymsu

That's what I thought and heard, but I don't know why mine's not collecting much. (I drive my car pretty hard on track. I do about 6-8 track days a year in advanced group when I have racing slicks. Without slicks, in group 2)
At first I took out the catch can after every track days, but it didn't really collect much.

Mine is installed on the passenger side, which I thought was the correct side..

If you are adding slicks to race the car I would assume you are driving it hard enough. Might have a really tight tolerance engine. I am not sure what side but looks like dirty side is on the passenger side for gen5 camaros. Then drivers side on LT1 corvette.

[drivingagain]

Maybe we can get apex or elite to be a sponsor and offer group buy on the Elite system since we all need one?


Edit: Just sent them an email to see if it is of interests to them.

[drivingagain]

Ok so I emailed Elite Engineering for a group buy on catch cans. Would you guys be interested? I am thinking that we do the group buy first week of november so people have time to put their orders in and right before the first cars get delivered?

[Tara Martin]

Originally Posted by drivingagain

Ok so I emailed Elite Engineering for a group buy on catch cans. Would you guys be interested? I am thinking that we do the group buy first week of november so people have time to put their orders in and right before the first cars get delivered?

I want one! I have one on my 1LE, and am selling the car to a friend, so the catch can goes with it...

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by SUMMIT WHITE SS

I have one on my Mustang, any car as said can have it. Not just a DI car...GM does say they added an oil/air separator to the LT1 (which is just another name for a catch can). I am curious how they are going to label/write this up so it's checked and emptied during oil changes. I will most likely if it's needed, add an additional one if it doesn't effect the PCV since it has one from the factory...we will see.

Quality oil, and not skimping on oil changes, along with running top tier fuel is important too.

From what I've read it is re-circulated back into the oil pan.

Nothing to drain. No can.

BTW....conventional oil is better in the first 500-1000 miles.

Synthetic has been shown to hamper ring seating compared to conventional.

The tightest/best performing motor will be driven relatively hard from day one and have the synthetic switched out to conventional immediately. One can then go back to the synthetic after 500-1000 miles.

Changing the oil sooner at first is also a good idea because a new motor will produce more contaminants initially compared to one that has been driven.

[Co2SS]

ULTRAZLS1 just beat me to it but yes he is correct, "catch can" oil on the new LT1 will be sent back to the oil pan. Hopefully GM hit another home run on this item and none of us paying 40k+ for a Camaro will have to go out and buy and install a device to prevent something the manufacture should figure out and prevent in the first place.

[rtcat600man]

Funny........I have had a catch can on my V6 LLT engine for the past 5 years. AND certainly plan to get one from day one on my 6th Gen LT1 engine.

I say funny becasue of all the grief many of us got for talking about catch cans a few years ago, and now the V8 crowd is starting to get the bigger picture.


This thread will certainly get some interesting comments.

[mt3130]

To me, it's one of those things that is pretty cheap that can do a lot of good for the engine in the long run.

I'm going to monitor the forum to see how well GM's solution works, but as of now, the catch can is a no brainer for me.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

From what I've read it is re-circulated back into the oil pan.

Nothing to drain. No can.

Cool, good to know.

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

BTW....conventional oil is better in the first 500-1000 miles.

Synthetic has been shown to hamper ring seating compared to conventional.

The tightest/best performing motor will be driven relatively hard from day one and have the synthetic switched out to conventional immediately. One can then go back to the synthetic after 500-1000 miles.

Not necessarly the case anymore. I spend some time on Bob the Oil Guy and that isn't the consensus at all anymore. (BETTER) Synthetic oils in most cases now have all the additives that you would want for proper break in now a days, like Amsoil and Pennzoil. Many high end cars come with a synthetic fill from the factory as well, and some specifically (Porsche) says not to run DINO oil.

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

Changing the oil sooner at first is also a good idea because a new motor will produce more contaminants initially compared to one that has been driven.

Agree.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by SUMMIT WHITE SS

Cool, good to know.



Not necessarly the case anymore. I spend some time on Bob the Oil Guy and that isn't the consensus at all anymore. (BETTER) Synthetic oils in most cases now have all the additives that you would want for proper break in now a days, like Amsoil and Pennzoil. Many high end cars come with a synthetic fill from the factory as well, and some specifically (Porsche) says not to run DINO oil.




Agree.

I'm familiar as well. Haven't researched much lately but using conventional at first used to be the recommended route. Something to do with conventional being somewhat less effective in turn producing more friction allowing the rings to seat quicker and more effectively.

I always wondered why they would do factory fill with synthetic due to this but figured it was because some people treat their cars like crap and don't change oil soon enough. From a lot of what I read synthetics main advantage used to be mileage. Doesn't break down as quickly. I actually read some tests where castrol gtx conventional performs about as good as anything when fresh... Just doesn't last as long.