ZL1 Sway Bar Part #'s? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

el Wulf · 02-15-2018, 02:48 AM

Upgrading my '11 SS suspension to 1LE struts/springs, Hotchkis springs, & ZL1 sway bars. I have all the components except the sway bars.

What are the correct part numbers to both the front & rear ZL1 sway bars?

Much appreciated!

olblue75 · 02-15-2018, 08:44 AM

I don’t have PNs but I’m pulling my ZL1 bars this weekend if your interested. I’ll have the rear out for sure tomorrow. I’d take 250 for the set shipped.

el Wulf · 02-15-2018, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

I don’t have PNs but I’m pulling my ZL1 bars this weekend if your interested. I’ll have the rear out for sure tomorrow. I’d take 250 for the set shipped.

Are the ZL1 front sway bar & the 1LE front sway bar the same sway bar or are they totally different?

el Wulf · 02-16-2018, 02:52 AM

Did some more research & found this thread about the sway bar combinations.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197523

It's the same setup that was recommended to me by another forum member...which was the OEM 1LE (FE4) 27mm solid front sway bar & OEM ZL1 (FE5) 28mm solid rear sway bar (same setup that he runs on the track). Going with the OEM 1LE in the front, but considering upgrading the rear with Spohn Performance's 32mm solid sway bar & end links (have already upgraded to their Del-sphere chrome-moly trailing arms & toe links). Just need the part number for the 1LE front sway bar. I believe that it's: 22786260...not sure though.

olblue75 · 02-16-2018, 07:50 AM

The front bar is the one that is different between the Z an 1LE, I'm going with JPSS 32mm rear and 1LE front.

Avenging Orange · 02-16-2018, 09:37 AM

Go check any of the GM online parts stores. Gmpartshouse.com actually sells a zl1 kit for us early years with the inbound mounted rear.....or you can buy separately.....either way, dirt cheap.

VR Baron · 02-16-2018, 10:17 AM

The zl1 front bar is 25mm diameter, the 1le is 27mm. Both rears are 28mm. Understeer with both combos, gm does that for safety so you don’t get in over your head on the street with to much oversteer during emergency braking when the rear end can come around on you. What’s right for you depends on what you are doing with the car and your driving/comfort/ safety levels. A common setup to get rid of understeer, but not all, is a 27/32mm front rear bar spread the , or 5 mm difference in bar sizes. For the best rear bar configuration you need the FE4/FE5 control arms and end links from a 2012 and up car. Using the FE4 front 23 solid front bar and the 1le 28mm rear bar is also a good balanced setup, just not as stiff as the bigger bars.

If you go with the bigger 27mm front and 32mm rear bar, I have a used Pedders fE4 32 mm bar for sale

el Wulf · 02-16-2018, 02:26 PM

Thanks guys! I really appreciate all the help! This is my 1st modern muscle car & this is all new to me. The last muscle car that I built was during high school & back then it was about drag racing on an abandoned runway...'66 Goat with '73 455 SD, TH400 w/3300 stall (stock '69 GTO Judge converter), & GM 12 bolt w/Detroit Locker & 3.73's. Want to go a different route this time & since it's not my DD, I want to concentrate more on a pro-tour setup. Upgrading to 1LE struts/shocks, Hotchkis springs, Hotchkis chassis brace, & LG Motorsports strut tower brace...just need to decide on the sway bars. Going to go with the 2012-15 wide bar in the rear. Have everything to upgrade except the 2012-15 rear LCA's, upper shock mounts, end links, & complete set of poly bushings & mounts. Just ordered a set of 3.70 gears & master installation kit. Thought it best to do it all at the same time along with the subframe bushings. I live 30 minutes away from Thunderhill Raceway, so I'm seriously considering enrolling in their school. Would love to get a group of friends together & participate in a group run at the track!!!

In the powertrain department:

Not looking to go overboard with the horsepower....Shooting for 500 rwhp & as much torque as possible. Derale Series 10000 16 row oil cooler (did the oil delete), Flex-a-lite direct fit transmission cooler, ADM intake scoop, AEM CAI, Granatelli CIA calibrated MAF, Jet Performance Hi-Flo TB, C.H.E. high-flow fuel rails w/pressure gauge, McNally catch can & clean side separator, PowerBond 25% underdrive balancer, JBA Cat4ward headers, JBA cat delete pipes, & SCT-X4 93 octane "canned" tune already installed. Looking to finish up with a GPI VVT1 camshaft w/DOD delete kit, GPI fully ported intake manifold w/rod-mod, 52lb injectors, Taylor wires, & GPI remote tune. No mod's to the transmission other than recalibrating the shift points & line pressures.

Replaced OEM rotors & pads with Power-Stop Street Warrior Performance Z26 rotors & pads, plus replaced stock brake lines with Goodridge G-Stop steel braided lines.

Someday will probably go with Pedders coil-overs, Granatelli Motorsports 1G Handling Package, & Power Stop High-Carbon Track Day rotors & pads.

And that's my story....lol

JusticePete · 02-16-2018, 02:46 PM

Interesting shopping list, but almost nothing on your list is what I would do.

A 1LE or ZL1 rear bar works best with your skinny SS OE front bar.

Bilstein B6 inverted monotubes are just a hair below the function of the Z/28 DSSV units from Mutlimatic and they are so much better than the low end coilovers it is hard to even compare them.

The last thing a 5th Gen needs is more mass from a chassis brace. On your 11 Pegasus solid rear sub-frame bushings, Z/28 upper outer bushings, JPSS Billet Radius Arm Inserts and caster Locks are the right components to reduce dynamic caster and toe changes.

You can learn more here.

http://www.jpssonline.com/t-camaro-s...valuation.aspx

el Wulf · 02-16-2018, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Interesting shopping list, but almost nothing on your list is what I would do.

A 1LE or ZL1 rear bar works best with your skinny SS OE front bar.

Bilstein B6 inverted monotubes are just a hair below the function of the Z/28 DSSV units from Mutlimatic and they are so much better than the low end coilovers it is hard to even compare them.

The last thing a 5th Gen needs is more mass from a chassis brace. On your 11 Pegasus solid rear sub-frame bushings, Z/28 upper outer bushings, JPSS Billet Radius Arm Inserts and caster Locks are the right components to reduce dynamic caster and toe changes.

You can learn more here.

http://www.jpssonline.com/t-camaro-s...valuation.aspx

Much appreciated....will lose the chassis brace. Was looking at the Bilstein B6's first, but was told that coil-overs were better. Received a great deal on a set of 1LE struts, shocks, front end links & Hotchkis springs form another forum member & figured it would be a good setup for now. On the sway bars, either my SS(F)/ZL1(R) or 1LE(F)/JPSS 32mm(R) as long as I maintain the 5mm difference. I was told that installing subframe connectors would reduce the body flex caused by the unibody chassis. I live in CA, so I'm plagued by the Gestapos at C.A.R.B....need to change out parts every 2 years, pass inspection, & then swap back emission wise.

JusticePete · 02-16-2018, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by el Wulf

Much appreciated....will lose the chassis brace. Was looking at the Bilstein B6's first, but was told that coil-overs were better. Received a great deal on a set of 1LE struts, shocks, front end links & Hotchkis springs form another forum member & figured it would be a good setup for now. On the sway bars, either my SS(F)/ZL1(R) or 1LE(F)/JPSS 32mm(R) as long as I maintain the 5mm difference. I was told that installing subframe connectors would reduce the body flex caused by the unibody chassis. I live in CA, so I'm plagued by the Gestapos at C.A.R.B....need to change out parts every 2 years, pass inspection, & then swap back emission wise.

The 1LE struts are monotubes in the rear and twin tubes in the front.

There is a lot of misinformation on the internet and some just gets dated. As soon as the inverted mono the B6 Bilsteins came out. all the low end coilovers became obsolete, even though they were a great option at one time.

There is very little chassis flex in the 5th Gen. This section of our book explains why.

http://www.jpssonline.com/t-2010-cam...valuation.aspx

olblue75 · 02-16-2018, 04:19 PM

Jast installed my 1LE front 27mm and JPSS 32mm rear bar haven't taken it out yet due to crappy cold rainy weather. I will say the old bars kind of fought me a little but the new bars dam near fell in place very simple. Probably took longer jacking, Jack stands, jacking the motor, and removing tires than actually replacing the bars. Also got my new Z28 trans mount (little harder rubber than the SS) with a rev shift insert will be installed Monday.

JusticePete · 02-16-2018, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

Jast installed my 1LE front 27mm and JPSS 32mm rear bar haven't taken it out yet due to crappy cold rainy weather. I will say the old bars kind of fought me a little but the new bars dam near fell in place very simple. Probably took longer jacking, Jack stands, jacking the motor, and removing tires than actually replacing the bars. Also got my new Z28 trans mount (little harder rubber than the SS) with a rev shift insert will be installed Monday.

rich2342 · 05-04-2018, 01:02 PM

I have a 2010 SS. Do i have to convert to the FE4 for a rear sway bar?

Can I just use one of the Aftermarket sway bars f/r for the 10's/11's and still get a large improvement over stock and save a few bucks?

What would I need in the above case?

02-15-2018, 02:48 AM	#1
el Wulf Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Chico, California Posts: 187 View My Garage	ZL1 Sway Bar Part #'s? Upgrading my '11 SS suspension to 1LE struts/springs, Hotchkis springs, & ZL1 sway bars. I have all the components except the sway bars. What are the correct part numbers to both the front & rear ZL1 sway bars? Much appreciated!

02-15-2018, 08:44 AM	#2
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,062	I don’t have PNs but I’m pulling my ZL1 bars this weekend if your interested. I’ll have the rear out for sure tomorrow. I’d take 250 for the set shipped. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

02-16-2018, 02:52 AM	#4
el Wulf Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Chico, California Posts: 187 View My Garage	Did some more research & found this thread about the sway bar combinations. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197523 It's the same setup that was recommended to me by another forum member...which was the OEM 1LE (FE4) 27mm solid front sway bar & OEM ZL1 (FE5) 28mm solid rear sway bar (same setup that he runs on the track). Going with the OEM 1LE in the front, but considering upgrading the rear with Spohn Performance's 32mm solid sway bar & end links (have already upgraded to their Del-sphere chrome-moly trailing arms & toe links). Just need the part number for the 1LE front sway bar. I believe that it's: 22786260...not sure though. Last edited by el Wulf; 02-16-2018 at 03:10 AM.

02-16-2018, 07:50 AM	#5
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,062	The front bar is the one that is different between the Z an 1LE, I'm going with JPSS 32mm rear and 1LE front. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

02-16-2018, 09:37 AM	#6
Avenging Orange Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Clermont, IN Posts: 3,297	Go check any of the GM online parts stores. Gmpartshouse.com actually sells a zl1 kit for us early years with the inbound mounted rear.....or you can buy separately.....either way, dirt cheap. __________________ 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather, Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Borla touring axle back, Cold Air Inductions CAI , non synthetic fluids, BMR total bushing upgrade/1" lowering springs, DSE 32mm rear sway bar. GM fe4 shocks/struts/LCA's, AAM 3.91 diff, Vertini RFS1.8 20x9 +30. Conti ExtremeContact Sport 275/35/20. sjm autoprod ABL dash kit. Mike Norris tuned 413/419. Avenging Orange: 43 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!! https://youtu.be/9JD9it6SmB8 https://youtu.be/xmelTlEzI34 KICKING CANCERS ASS SINCE 2015!!

02-16-2018, 10:17 AM	#7
VR Baron SoCal Camaro5 Race Team Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SO CAL Posts: 14,288	The zl1 front bar is 25mm diameter, the 1le is 27mm. Both rears are 28mm. Understeer with both combos, gm does that for safety so you don’t get in over your head on the street with to much oversteer during emergency braking when the rear end can come around on you. What’s right for you depends on what you are doing with the car and your driving/comfort/ safety levels. A common setup to get rid of understeer, but not all, is a 27/32mm front rear bar spread the , or 5 mm difference in bar sizes. For the best rear bar configuration you need the FE4/FE5 control arms and end links from a 2012 and up car. Using the FE4 front 23 solid front bar and the 1le 28mm rear bar is also a good balanced setup, just not as stiff as the bigger bars. If you go with the bigger 27mm front and 32mm rear bar, I have a used Pedders fE4 32 mm bar for sale

02-16-2018, 02:26 PM	#8
el Wulf Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Chico, California Posts: 187 View My Garage	Thanks guys! I really appreciate all the help! This is my 1st modern muscle car & this is all new to me. The last muscle car that I built was during high school & back then it was about drag racing on an abandoned runway...'66 Goat with '73 455 SD, TH400 w/3300 stall (stock '69 GTO Judge converter), & GM 12 bolt w/Detroit Locker & 3.73's. Want to go a different route this time & since it's not my DD, I want to concentrate more on a pro-tour setup. Upgrading to 1LE struts/shocks, Hotchkis springs, Hotchkis chassis brace, & LG Motorsports strut tower brace...just need to decide on the sway bars. Going to go with the 2012-15 wide bar in the rear. Have everything to upgrade except the 2012-15 rear LCA's, upper shock mounts, end links, & complete set of poly bushings & mounts. Just ordered a set of 3.70 gears & master installation kit. Thought it best to do it all at the same time along with the subframe bushings. I live 30 minutes away from Thunderhill Raceway, so I'm seriously considering enrolling in their school. Would love to get a group of friends together & participate in a group run at the track!!! In the powertrain department: Not looking to go overboard with the horsepower....Shooting for 500 rwhp & as much torque as possible. Derale Series 10000 16 row oil cooler (did the oil delete), Flex-a-lite direct fit transmission cooler, ADM intake scoop, AEM CAI, Granatelli CIA calibrated MAF, Jet Performance Hi-Flo TB, C.H.E. high-flow fuel rails w/pressure gauge, McNally catch can & clean side separator, PowerBond 25% underdrive balancer, JBA Cat4ward headers, JBA cat delete pipes, & SCT-X4 93 octane "canned" tune already installed. Looking to finish up with a GPI VVT1 camshaft w/DOD delete kit, GPI fully ported intake manifold w/rod-mod, 52lb injectors, Taylor wires, & GPI remote tune. No mod's to the transmission other than recalibrating the shift points & line pressures. Replaced OEM rotors & pads with Power-Stop Street Warrior Performance Z26 rotors & pads, plus replaced stock brake lines with Goodridge G-Stop steel braided lines. Someday will probably go with Pedders coil-overs, Granatelli Motorsports 1G Handling Package, & Power Stop High-Carbon Track Day rotors & pads. And that's my story....lol Last edited by el Wulf; 02-20-2018 at 03:22 PM.

02-16-2018, 02:46 PM	#9
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	Interesting shopping list, but almost nothing on your list is what I would do. A 1LE or ZL1 rear bar works best with your skinny SS OE front bar. Bilstein B6 inverted monotubes are just a hair below the function of the Z/28 DSSV units from Mutlimatic and they are so much better than the low end coilovers it is hard to even compare them. The last thing a 5th Gen needs is more mass from a chassis brace. On your 11 Pegasus solid rear sub-frame bushings, Z/28 upper outer bushings, JPSS Billet Radius Arm Inserts and caster Locks are the right components to reduce dynamic caster and toe changes. You can learn more here. http://www.jpssonline.com/t-camaro-s...valuation.aspx

02-16-2018, 04:19 PM	#12
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,062	Jast installed my 1LE front 27mm and JPSS 32mm rear bar haven't taken it out yet due to crappy cold rainy weather. I will say the old bars kind of fought me a little but the new bars dam near fell in place very simple. Probably took longer jacking, Jack stands, jacking the motor, and removing tires than actually replacing the bars. Also got my new Z28 trans mount (little harder rubber than the SS) with a rev shift insert will be installed Monday. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

05-04-2018, 01:02 PM	#14
rich2342 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: MA Posts: 515	I have a 2010 SS. Do i have to convert to the FE4 for a rear sway bar? Can I just use one of the Aftermarket sway bars f/r for the 10's/11's and still get a large improvement over stock and save a few bucks? What would I need in the above case?