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Old 11-25-2016, 11:58 PM   #15
Jayjellyfish212

 
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A catch can!
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:00 AM   #16
christianchevell
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The price for the under drive pulley....well that's worth it when its harmonics balance out from the now radical cam compared to stock the stock "balancer" which is basically a turd shaped to the pulley as the cranks fairly balanced in the block not like old school harmonic balancers....I have seen multiple post of stock balancers falling apart and cheap like SLP ones even too. And having the engine now shake the car...priceless, the damage a not balanced for it cam and can transmit to the bearings, the timing chain, crank, its bearings, the etc.... Well that has a price. And heck you can be OK with the stock chunk of metal hanging off front of your crank for a good long time, then one day...... the Worm turns.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:54 AM   #17
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Ran stock pulley for 3 years with no issues with aftermarket cam
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:00 AM   #18
christianchevell
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yes a good catch can is also a must, and just because you can run the stock balancer or a cheap aftermarket does not mean it will help the harmful vibrations that take its toll over time, there is a reason they make them and on a good old SBC/BBC the deal was the hydraulic cams usually are under .500 lift by far and not rollers with our much higher more radical lift and they were really harmonic balancers but not the best made as they were basically a weight made for the crank and the cheapo way to do elimination of harmful vibration is for a rubber layer between the pieces of metal joined together making up the harmonic balancer. I run a Fluidampr which actually has a fluid in it to help, ATI is another good one and I am just sharing this because even on a old school hot rod if you were really wanting to invest money that's a good place to put the money along with other things like Bushing rockers or better pedestals like the ones available from Livernois to help the rockers movement and that's one I am going to do with bushings eventually. Remember the thing is a deal to last the long term, the investment now may cause less money spent on the first spring change when you check over all the upper valve train for wear/bearings/ wear patterns/ damage /etc.

Our engines do have a lot of spring pressure for a cam, and I break in my cam with BR30 just like a engine even with a 8620 core, because you cant fix stupid. And a failure does not always happen right away, it comes many miles down the road, not like failing to break in flat tappet without enough ZDDP in the oil and failing to even break it in proper it will not fail within the initial break in of about 30 minutes at varying rpms. And it will not immediately round off the cam lobes sending all the metal it shaved off into the engine to trash every bearing and hurt everything..... And why smart old hot rodders know to break in a cam right, and not throw the baby out with the bath water as you only have yourself to blame if you could have done more or learned more to prevent using the wrong oil or the wrong part etc...... AS people who are into restoring cars and old hot rodders know you cannot trust even the oil now and for break in you need initial wear to seat piston rings, seals etc, but you have to keep it strong with ZDDP for the Curing of the cam....... then you can go more slippery but don't be too slippery you may drag rollers instead of them turning, etc, etc....Just stuff you learn over time.
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Old 11-28-2016, 01:24 PM   #19
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Hello diablo0730

I know you asked specifically about what you can do for a little bit to get a bit more, thought it would be good to chime in to let you know that with all of the LS engines that come in for performance camshaft upgrades, we like to upgrade some of the other components to really promote longevity and long term reliability.

Christianchevell is absolutely correct, long term performance and reliability are so important so it’s always best to address where improvements can be made while you’re upgrading the camshaft to something a little more meaty.

It sounds like you’ve already gotten the oil pump, definitely worth upgrading that. Other recommendations would be to have a look at the valve springs, we have a dual coil valve spring upgrade kit which would include the dual coil springs, retainers, new seals etc. They can handle a load of lift and are much more stable compared to stock.

We would also recommend installing some rocker bar support braces. We make billet aluminum braces in house, we use them because they help improve valve train and rocker arm stability. With added spring pressures and larger camshafts the load imposed on the factory OE rocker stand and bolts often allows for a little flex and distortion, it’s always great to minimize that.

It looks as though you’ve got the upgraded CR5 timing chain too, that’s also something we upgrade with every job.
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