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Old 06-15-2020, 02:50 PM   #1
red70tvhs
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MRR M755 fender gap help

Hey guys, I'm pretty oblivious on offset and wheels despite how many posts or how much I research. I had these wheels installed with the recommended tire size of 275/30/20 front and 305/30/20 rear. The rear doesn't bother me much but the front looks like a 4x4 now. I don't really want to lower the car to fix it because I don't want to mess with weight transfer. The main goal of the car is a good looking street car that dips into the 10s, so I need to keep the transfer good. What are my options to fix this? I've considered a spacer to bring the front wheel out to 1le offset and move up to a 285 on the front. I've considered moving to a 35 profile but I'm afraid it'll screw with the ABS. Lastly, lowering springs - very mild. Not slamming by any means. The car is mag ride. Any help or what any of you guys did is greatly appreciated. Forgive how dirty the car is in the pic, I was in route to drop it off for ceramic coat after finishing up installing ARH 2" long tubes.

PS - any lowering can't interfere with running a drag pack and bias ply in the rear. I'll probably be using the ET street R bias or a straight slick.
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Old 06-15-2020, 05:03 PM   #2
Trochoidal

 
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This condition is rather synonymous with the 285/305 setup. I’m still on the fence about springs but have done some research on MRC & lowering springs. While I don’t have first hand experience of going through the motions of lowering, proactively I have prepared for the MRC portion of the spring install.

I’d suggest you watch the video, read this information and make your own decision. I did purchase the cable and software from Shocksims.

MRC ride height/trim calibration

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9MesB4...ature=youtu.be

Ride height sensor trim procedure is a function used by the GM Dealerships scan tool to re-calibrate the suspension control module for any changes in ride height or ride height sensors to set the 'zero' ride height position of the vehicle.
It reads the ride height sensor voltages, stores them in memory, and sets them as the normal ride height position

The Suspension Control Module (SCM) is calibrated from the factory for its stock ride based on the ride height sensor voltages. This is the stock 'zero' suspension travel position for the magneride system.

As the vehicle drives (moves up/down, side to side) an algorithm determines how much electrical current (mA) to send to each magneride shock in order to maintain a smooth ride. The amount of current sent to a shock is proportional to how hard or soft the control module wants the shock to dampen.
If the ride height of the vehicle changes, due to a shock or spring replacement
OR If any ride height sensors have been replaced
A ride height trim calibration procedure is necessary, to re-zero the system.

http://www.shocksims.com/
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Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“
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Old 06-16-2020, 12:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trochoidal View Post
This condition is rather synonymous with the 285/305 setup. I’m still on the fence about springs but have done some research on MRC & lowering springs. While I don’t have first hand experience of going through the motions of lowering, proactively I have prepared for the MRC portion of the spring install.

I’d suggest you watch the video, read this information and make your own decision. I did purchase the cable and software from Shocksims.

MRC ride height/trim calibration

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9MesB4...ature=youtu.be

Ride height sensor trim procedure is a function used by the GM Dealerships scan tool to re-calibrate the suspension control module for any changes in ride height or ride height sensors to set the 'zero' ride height position of the vehicle.
It reads the ride height sensor voltages, stores them in memory, and sets them as the normal ride height position

The Suspension Control Module (SCM) is calibrated from the factory for its stock ride based on the ride height sensor voltages. This is the stock 'zero' suspension travel position for the magneride system.

As the vehicle drives (moves up/down, side to side) an algorithm determines how much electrical current (mA) to send to each magneride shock in order to maintain a smooth ride. The amount of current sent to a shock is proportional to how hard or soft the control module wants the shock to dampen.
If the ride height of the vehicle changes, due to a shock or spring replacement
OR If any ride height sensors have been replaced
A ride height trim calibration procedure is necessary, to re-zero the system.

http://www.shocksims.com/
Holy begeeezus. This is a bit nuts. Wonder if a dealer can just plug in a tech 2? I know one of my local service writers pretty good.
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Old 06-16-2020, 10:02 PM   #4
Trochoidal

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red70tvhs View Post
Holy begeeezus. This is a bit nuts. Wonder if a dealer can just plug in a tech 2? I know one of my local service writers pretty good.
Idk what the dealer uses but I either read or saw in a video they charge $125 for the calibration. Probably takes 5-10 minutes!

Maybe your service writer can hook you up with a discount.
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Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“
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Old 06-17-2020, 06:34 AM   #5
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a 275/35 fits fine on 1LE spec front wheels but in your case I tend to think that different aspect ratio's front and rear looks funny when you really look at it.
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:31 AM   #6
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285/30/20 will be a bit wider and a tad taller. Should fill in more. Going 285/35/20 will be taller than the rear and looks ridiculous.
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Old 07-08-2020, 06:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnAY View Post
a 275/35 fits fine on 1LE spec front wheels but in your case I tend to think that different aspect ratio's front and rear looks funny when you really look at it.
I'd need a spacer to bring it out to 1le spec I do believe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markoz28 View Post
285/30/20 will be a bit wider and a tad taller. Should fill in more. Going 285/35/20 will be taller than the rear and looks ridiculous.
I'll probably end up going the first option. Or I may just scrap the wheels. I don't really want to lower the car at all.
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