can a ICE-olator and catch-can result in a code p0420 that keeps popping up?? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

smokinz · 11-13-2013, 08:21 AM

2010 v6 camaro.
Recently(early summer) put a catch can on it and the ICE-olator. Ever since I have had the code p0420 pup up randomly. It seems like the majority of the time it only happens when i "baby" it. The first time it happened I took it to the dealer to find out what the code was and they said it was from a massive vacuum leak on the right bank due to the catch can. You could hear a very slight leak where it connects to the passenger side valve cover, so I ordered a new line and removed the catch can. I thought I was good to go after that, but nope, the code kept popping back up randomly. The last time it popped up I re-torqued the intake and the code went away for a week, then just popped back up today. Any on know of other reason that code could be popping up??

Tampa Tuning · 11-13-2013, 10:00 AM

Sounds like time for a smoke test to see where its leaking from.

We havent seen an issue with the ICEolater, but some catch cans have developed leaks. Dry hoses cause be an issue, but not likely on a couple year old car.

Ive also seen it with leaking exhaust.

Phil

smokinz · 11-13-2013, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

Sounds like time for a smoke test to see where its leaking from.

We havent seen an issue with the ICEolater, but some catch cans have developed leaks. Dry hoses cause be an issue, but not likely on a couple year old car.

Ive also seen it with leaking exhaust.

Phil

I took the catch can out of the equation by installing a new GM plastic line that goes from the valve cover to the intake. Never thought about the exhaust, I will look into that this weekend.

terry_b · 11-22-2013, 05:47 AM

Any more info on your code? I'm getting a P0420 now as well - coincidentally after my ICEolator install.

Shift_Rejected · 11-22-2013, 06:22 AM

I had a P0420 from the vacuum line that attached to my CAI.. I simple clamp fixed it up.

pgustavson · 11-22-2013, 06:49 AM

If the P0420 code is indeed linked to a vacuum leak somehow, then maybe the intake manifold bolts are loose. I never got a code, but I can say that at about a week after the ICE-olator install, the bolts had gotten really loose. I tightened them back to 18 ft-lbs (when engine was cold), and they have never loosened again.

Infinite-T · 11-22-2013, 10:28 AM

Make sure the seal around the iceolator is good. Maybe the gasket or rtv didnt set right?

terry_b · 11-22-2013, 10:37 AM

I actually used a second gasket, not RTV and I put longer bolts on. Tonight I plan on going through each bolt and checking tightness, as well as each of the hoses for my catch can and the intake tube. I've been talking to RX about a separate issue and it's actually looking more like maybe the drain valve on my catch can is leaking.

pgustavson · 11-22-2013, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terry_b

I actually used a second gasket, not RTV and I put longer bolts on. Tonight I plan on going through each bolt and checking tightness, as well as each of the hoses for my catch can and the intake tube. I've been talking to RX about a separate issue and it's actually looking more like maybe the drain valve on my catch can is leaking.

That could do it. Interestingly, I once left my catch can drain wide open and neither got a code nor had any running issues. The only thing that clued me into something being wrong was that my fuel trims were all over the place...weird.

Ventmaster · 11-22-2013, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terry_b

I actually used a second gasket, not RTV and I put longer bolts on. Tonight I plan on going through each bolt and checking tightness, as well as each of the hoses for my catch can and the intake tube. I've been talking to RX about a separate issue and it's actually looking more like maybe the drain valve on my catch can is leaking.

So you used 140mm bolts- correct?
And trimmed the placement tabs from the bottom of the 2nd IM gasket (the one on top of the Iceolator).

Sorry to split hairs- just double checking!

terry_b · 11-22-2013, 12:31 PM

Yes, I ended up buying 4x 140mm bolts, a 130mm, and a 120mm ( basically added 10mm to every bolt length ).

And stupidly, I actually trimmed those 2 little placement knobs on both gaskets - which made it a pain to line up the bolts, but eventually I got it to line up. I ordered another gasket just in case the old one is a bit squashed as well.

No worries about splitting hairs, I'm very mechanically inclined and capable... but I get so paranoid when I take things apart for just that sort of stuff. Thanks!

Ventmaster · 11-22-2013, 11:02 PM

I still get paranoid too, LOL!

Hope you get your issue resolved soon!

terry_b · 11-23-2013, 06:07 AM

Well, I threw a hose clamp on the air intake tube clean side separator connection, I checked on the intake manifold bolts and I found something interesting... I had purchased 6 new bolts - Each one was 10 mm longer than the one it was replacing. The bolts were partially threaded just like the stock bolts. Evidently the rear pain-in-the-a** bolt was getting buried all the way to the non-threaded portion and wasn't really tightening down. I replaced it with the stock bolt from the very front - this one had the same problem. I ended up just using the same bolt in the rear position as it was the only one I had on hand . I don't like how much thread is left after the extra thickness is added but at least I've got the other bolts.

I re-checked and torqued the bolts this morning before I left for work, still got the code in though

. How long should it take to clear? Assuming that was the problem of course.

And to really illustrate my point - pics!

Ventmaster · 11-23-2013, 02:22 PM

My memory is more questionable every day, but I thought that back bolt was just about 100mm. I was able to use my front bolt back there when I installed a Mace 1" insulator.

Anyway, the orig. bolt will still give you a good 10mm of thread and should get the job done safely.

Hopefully your code will reset in about 30 miles, but if you get impatient there's always the battery disconnect method!

11-13-2013, 08:21 AM	#1
smokinz Drives: 2010 1lt 1994 z28 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: PA Posts: 17	can a ICE-olator and catch-can result in a code p0420 that keeps popping up?? 2010 v6 camaro. Recently(early summer) put a catch can on it and the ICE-olator. Ever since I have had the code p0420 pup up randomly. It seems like the majority of the time it only happens when i "baby" it. The first time it happened I took it to the dealer to find out what the code was and they said it was from a massive vacuum leak on the right bank due to the catch can. You could hear a very slight leak where it connects to the passenger side valve cover, so I ordered a new line and removed the catch can. I thought I was good to go after that, but nope, the code kept popping back up randomly. The last time it popped up I re-torqued the intake and the code went away for a week, then just popped back up today. Any on know of other reason that code could be popping up?? Last edited by smokinz; 11-13-2013 at 09:16 AM.

11-22-2013, 05:47 AM	#4
terry_b Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hudson, MA Posts: 1,387 View My Garage	Any more info on your code? I'm getting a P0420 now as well - coincidentally after my ICEolator install. __________________ 2014 2SS/RS 1LE

11-22-2013, 06:49 AM	#6
pgustavson Stop writing "vert", ffs! Drives: 2011 2LT Convertible Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Gambrills, MD Posts: 1,341 View My Garage	If the P0420 code is indeed linked to a vacuum leak somehow, then maybe the intake manifold bolts are loose. I never got a code, but I can say that at about a week after the ICE-olator install, the bolts had gotten really loose. I tightened them back to 18 ft-lbs (when engine was cold), and they have never loosened again. __________________ Vararam \| Vmax Ported TB \| Ported IM \| Vmax Black ICE-olator

11-22-2013, 10:37 AM	#8
terry_b Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hudson, MA Posts: 1,387 View My Garage	I actually used a second gasket, not RTV and I put longer bolts on. Tonight I plan on going through each bolt and checking tightness, as well as each of the hoses for my catch can and the intake tube. I've been talking to RX about a separate issue and it's actually looking more like maybe the drain valve on my catch can is leaking. __________________ 2014 2SS/RS 1LE

11-22-2013, 12:31 PM	#11
terry_b Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hudson, MA Posts: 1,387 View My Garage	Yes, I ended up buying 4x 140mm bolts, a 130mm, and a 120mm ( basically added 10mm to every bolt length ). And stupidly, I actually trimmed those 2 little placement knobs on both gaskets - which made it a pain to line up the bolts, but eventually I got it to line up. I ordered another gasket just in case the old one is a bit squashed as well. No worries about splitting hairs, I'm very mechanically inclined and capable... but I get so paranoid when I take things apart for just that sort of stuff. Thanks! __________________ 2014 2SS/RS 1LE

11-13-2013, 10:00 AM	#2
Tampa Tuning Account Suspended Drives: TAMPA TUNING FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Tampa, Fl Posts: 3,044	Sounds like time for a smoke test to see where its leaking from. We havent seen an issue with the ICEolater, but some catch cans have developed leaks. Dry hoses cause be an issue, but not likely on a couple year old car. Ive also seen it with leaking exhaust. Phil

11-22-2013, 06:22 AM	#5
Shift_Rejected 2010 2SS RS Drives: 2010 2SS RS (L99) Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Wilmington, DelaWHERE Posts: 749	I had a P0420 from the vacuum line that attached to my CAI.. I simple clamp fixed it up.

11-22-2013, 11:02 PM	#12
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,869	I still get paranoid too, LOL! Hope you get your issue resolved soon!

11-23-2013, 06:07 AM	#13
terry_b Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hudson, MA Posts: 1,387 View My Garage	Well, I threw a hose clamp on the air intake tube clean side separator connection, I checked on the intake manifold bolts and I found something interesting... I had purchased 6 new bolts - Each one was 10 mm longer than the one it was replacing. The bolts were partially threaded just like the stock bolts. Evidently the rear pain-in-the-a** bolt was getting buried all the way to the non-threaded portion and wasn't really tightening down. I replaced it with the stock bolt from the very front - this one had the same problem. I ended up just using the same bolt in the rear position as it was the only one I had on hand . I don't like how much thread is left after the extra thickness is added but at least I've got the other bolts. I re-checked and torqued the bolts this morning before I left for work, still got the code in though . How long should it take to clear? Assuming that was the problem of course. And to really illustrate my point - pics! __________________ 2014 2SS/RS 1LE

11-23-2013, 02:22 PM	#14
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,869	My memory is more questionable every day, but I thought that back bolt was just about 100mm. I was able to use my front bolt back there when I installed a Mace 1" insulator. Anyway, the orig. bolt will still give you a good 10mm of thread and should get the job done safely. Hopefully your code will reset in about 30 miles, but if you get impatient there's always the battery disconnect method!