RX CATCH CAN & BREATHER CAP PROBLEM - CAUSED OIL LEAK - BEWARE *HELP*

[blackknight]

Im surprised that it was the frozen valve. Wouldnt the "air" being sucked thru the PCV system be warm enough to unfreeze the frozen valve?

[Whitehambone]

Originally Posted by velociSSimo

Glad you got it straightened out! And so far looks like no damage. If you think it may still be leaking in the future let me know and we can use the borescope on that rear seal area.

Thanks! I will let you know.

[Whitehambone]

Originally Posted by blackknight

Im surprised that it was the frozen valve. Wouldnt the "air" being sucked thru the PCV system be warm enough to unfreeze the frozen valve?

I would think if the valve is frozen, no air is moving through the tubes, even it it is warm. There is not much heat conduction through the rubber hoses. The engine compartment needs to heat up to warm up the valve and can.

[The Stig]

Originally Posted by bannonm

Can someone clarify this statement made by SC...

"we find a high percentage accidently open the drain valve. he drain valve is CLOSED when the thrreads are all the way exposed and extended, and open when the threads are retraceted and not all visable."

As I'm sitting here at lunch reading this, I'm concerned my RX can is open. Looking at the bottom of the can, if I turn the valve clockwise is the valve shut? As any normal valve, if I turn it CW the valve closes. Sounds to me like this valve on this can is opposite. So again, looking at the bottom of the can turning the valve CCW actually is closing the valve?

I just put this can on a few weeks ago but only have less than 100 miles on it. I started smelling the faint smell of burnt oil while driving and now I confused if maybe I have the valve open and that's what I'm smelling. And no I don't have the hoses flipped.

OK. If you are looking into you engine bay - so you're looking at the top of the RX catch can. Turn it to the left to close it. Turn it to the right to open it.

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by Whitehambone

I had a detailed conversation with SC2150 regarding the RX catch can and my particular problem. He confirmed that my install was correct and most likely cause was a frozen valve on the catch can. This caused pressure build up in the crankcase. He believes if the leak stopped, no permanent was done to the seal. I spoke with the performance shop that I plan on using for my tune this spring. They also felt if the leak stopped all would be good. They also told me that they never install a catch can with a metered valve. As I said before the factory tube is not metered. I really do not think I lost very much oil through the seal. It had been it running for several minutes before finding the problem. The oil stain in the driveway was only about 3 or 4 inches in diameter. I plan on using the optional non-metered fitting on the catch can since I live in a cold environment. Both SC2150 and my performance shop said this would prevent the problem from ever happening. If your catch can is mounted close to the engine, you may not have anything to worry about. As you can see in the picture, mine is mounted a ways from the engine. This is a common location for those that have a Vararam CAI. Your mileage may vary.

I want to thank everyone for all of the ideas and help you provided. I believe that the RX catch can is a good product. But I did want everyone to know that there is a small chance for a problem and maybe someone would find this information useful.

Thanks again everyone!

[BLACK10]

Why do you say you have to mount the cc there with the vararam? I have installed a few of the RX cans on the motor with the vararam?

[Whitehambone]

Originally Posted by BLACK10

Why do you say you have to mount the cc there with the vararam? I have installed a few of the RX cans on the motor with the vararam?

I did not say you have to mount it there, conceivably you can mount it nearly anywhere. Where freezing is not an issue, mounting it in a cooler spot would help the hot gases condensate.

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by BLACK10

Why do you say you have to mount the cc there with the vararam? I have installed a few of the RX cans on the motor with the vararam?

Mine wouldn't fit there and why it's mounted to the water bottle. Tracy has since made slide adjustable brackets and what I've been calling a hockey stick type. I could have drilled holes and made mine fit but didn't like where it would have sat.

[MA2010SS]

Originally Posted by Whitehambone

I had a detailed conversation with SC2150 regarding the RX catch can and my particular problem. He confirmed that my install was correct and most likely cause was a frozen valve on the catch can. This caused pressure build up in the crankcase. He believes if the leak stopped, no permanent was done to the seal. I spoke with the performance shop that I plan on using for my tune this spring. They also felt if the leak stopped all would be good. They also told me that they never install a catch can with a metered valve. As I said before the factory tube is not metered. I really do not think I lost very much oil through the seal. It had been it running for several minutes before finding the problem. The oil stain in the driveway was only about 3 or 4 inches in diameter. I plan on using the optional non-metered fitting on the catch can since I live in a cold environment. Both SC2150 and my performance shop said this would prevent the problem from ever happening. If your catch can is mounted close to the engine, you may not have anything to worry about. As you can see in the picture, mine is mounted a ways from the engine. This is a common location for those that have a Vararam CAI. Your mileage may vary.

I want to thank everyone for all of the ideas and help you provided. I believe that the RX catch can is a good product. But I did want everyone to know that there is a small chance for a problem and maybe someone would find this information useful.

Thanks again everyone!

Good to hear nothing major, the first thing that came to my mind is when you mentioned the freezing temps, I have run into a couple of cars that had done the same thing(living in the north east)...oddly enough they were cars with catch cans also mounted away from the engine bay. Keep us posted if anything changes

[Mud]

Good to see that this was solved. I am going to be making quite a few modifications in 2012: headers, tune, a catch can, and some others.

It is indeed, assuring that so many members pitch in to help solve issues that some may have with parts and accesories for their Camaro.

Most vendors, like this one, are more than willing and helpful.

Good job, guys. Hell of a community we have here.

[Whitehambone]

Originally Posted by MA2010SS

Good to hear nothing major, the first thing that came to my mind is when you mentioned the freezing temps, I have run into a couple of cars that had done the same thing(living in the north east)...oddly enough they were cars with catch cans also mounted away from the engine bay. Keep us posted if anything changes

Are you saying you have seen cars leak oil with catch can when it is cold?

If this was more of a daily driver, I might not have been so luckily. Repeated pressure cycles could have destroyed the real seal. That could be a serious repair. We are having a very mild winter. It is not uncommon to stay in the single digits for some time. With the added condensation during winter months, a frozen valve does not seem unlikely. Tracy did mention that they would add a note to the instructions about operation during winter months.

[MA2010SS]

Originally Posted by Whitehambone

Are you saying you have seen cars leak oil with catch can when it is cold?

If this was more of a daily driver, I might not have been so luckily. Repeated pressure cycles could have destroyed the real seal. That could be a serious repair. We are having a very mild winter. It is not uncommon to stay in the single digits for some time. With the added condensation during winter months, a frozen valve does not seem unlikely. Tracy did mention that they would add a note to the instructions about operation during winter months.

To an extent yes, the two cars that I have seen this happen to it was in the winter months...these were not new cars, one was a 98 LS1 with a catch can mounted on the firewall and the other was an old 72 camaro.

The guy with the 98 would periodically run his car in his un insullated garage for a long period of time...he had the basic bolt ons, he backs the car out of the garage and there was a small amount of oil on the floor...he shuts the car off, we start checking for everything and could see that oil had blown out from the rear main area, but had stopped. He starts the car up again in the driveway and I could head a buzzing noise from the catch can...I pulled on the pcv valve out of the catch can and it was damp and barely getting any suction, then I took the pcv valve out and there was plenty of suction at that point. You could see the condensation around the valve...just came to the conclusion that it was moisture and a very cold day.

The other car has a built engine and he just has crankcase problems everywhere, his was a blocked line, replace the line and he was good for a while

The manufacturers put the pcv systems always in a hot place on the vehicles, valve covers, inline on the intake manifolds and such to probably avoid those possible problems

Hope this helps

[blackknight]

Originally Posted by Whitehambone

I would think if the valve is frozen, no air is moving through the tubes, even it it is warm. There is not much heat conduction through the rubber hoses. The engine compartment needs to heat up to warm up the valve and can.

Im dumb. lol good call.

[Agent WD-40]

Originally Posted by SC2150

MA2010 is correct. In cold climates the cans will catch a good amount of water as well and if left to get to full can freeze if it is well below freezing. Also, the checkvalves themselves can if moisture is trapped in them. When draining, make sure to have the engine warm and then with the motor off, open the drain valve and allow it to drain for 3-5 minutes (less in warm weather).

With the cans mounted to the cylinder head they warm up fast, but on the drivers side air box stud mount it is further and takes longer to warm.

To see if all is working correctly, with the motor idling, pull the line loose from the crankcase vent and fell for suction. If you have suction then all is fine.

I read through most of the thread but I want to make sure I'm clear on things.

My vehicle is my DD in Michigan. I have my can mounted in the standard position in front of the engine. Do I have anything to worry about with the can or would I be better off going to a non metered valve? I just want to make sure I'm not causing any trouble.