[fastball]

Originally Posted by mikeyg36

First off stop acting like you're on some sort of crusade. You have no idea what you're talking about. As I said in the other thread give me evidence as to what you support and maybe I'll give you the time of day. Otherwise, hop off and don't reply to me. If you have something to say to me then hit the PM button and stop acting like some internet tough guy. Second off, go look at the break in for the LT1 crate engine. It calls for WOT pulls. Silly GM they must be damaging the engine

I will reply to you each and every time because you are giving out INCORRECT information.

If you DON'T want me responding to you, simply STOP POSTING BAD INFO!

[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by mikeyg36

Hence why you shouldn't beat the hell out of it racing, doing launches, donuts etc. A WOT pull isn't going to do anything to the transmission or the rear because it barely puts strain on those parts.

it doesn't? hmm gotta look for my richmond warranty papers

The LT1 crate engine papers calls for just enough to seat the rings, which doesn't take long, then to take it easy for 500 miles.

[mikeyg36]

Originally Posted by Nicul15

it doesn't? hmm gotta look for my richmond warranty papers

The LT1 crate engine papers calls for just enough to seat the rings, which doesn't take long, then to take it easy for 500 miles.

LT1 crate says take it easy for a few miles, do medium throttle pulls, and then do hard WOT pulls. Then take it easy for a few hundred miles.

[mikeyg36]

Originally Posted by fastball

I will reply to you each and every time because you are giving out INCORRECT information.

If you DON'T want me responding to you, simply STOP POSTING BAD INFO!

DEFEND YOUR ARGUMENT FOR THE 1000th TIME. You're the one posting bad info and you think you're above everyone else. If you don't like it you can block me but guess what: I do not care what you think. You and your opinions are irrelevant to me.

[GretchenGotGrowl]

So, are you folks saying the ECU doesn't limit things like RPM until a certain number of miles are on the odometer? My Vette did.

[FlightSoftware]

Originally Posted by GretchenGotGrowl

So, are you folks saying the ECU doesn't limit things like RPM until a certain number of miles are on the odometer? My Vette did.

That's brilliant. They should all do that.

[RenegadeXR]

Originally Posted by Glen e

The way you break in your own car is your business . Treating a dealer car like crap THAT YOU DONT OWN is deplorable. And then to be proud you did it is almost unbelievable. So much for ethics....

That's really what it boils down to. If isn't yours, don't treat it like it is. You don't walk into an Apple store and start furiously whacking off with one of their display models. Well, most people don't.

[Whis]

Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram

Basically, Chevy is more worried about avoiding warrant repairs. So, they tell you to baby the car.

Wow

This really makes a lot of sense, especially with your posted experience

[xgnxs]

Originally Posted by mikeyg36

DEFEND YOUR ARGUMENT FOR THE 1000th TIME. You're the one posting bad info and you think you're above everyone else. If you don't like it you can block me but guess what: I do not care what you think. You and your opinions are irrelevant to me.

What bad information is he posting? That it makes more sense to follow the break in procedure that's printed in the vehicle owners manual than the one that's printed for a crate engine? I really hope it doesn't really have to be explained what makes more sense...

Best of both worlds: Buy a 6th gen. Take the LT1 out. Break in the engine according to the crate engine break in procedure. Once the engine is broken in, put it back in the vehicle. Break in the entire rest of the vehicle.

Or you could, ya know, just follow what's printed in the owners manual for the vehicle.

[mikeyg36]

Originally Posted by xgnxs

What bad information is he posting? That it makes more sense to follow the break in procedure that's printed in the vehicle owners manual than the one that's printed for a crate engine? I really hope it doesn't really have to be explained what makes more sense...

Best of both worlds: Buy a 6th gen. Take the LT1 out. Break in the engine according to the crate engine break in procedure. Once the engine is broken in, put it back in the vehicle. Break in the entire rest of the vehicle.

Or you could, ya know, just follow what's printed in the owners manual for the vehicle.

I've commented multiple times on this. You're not going to seal the rings babying the engine. Period. It isn't rocket science, hence why the crate engine has the break-in recommendation that it does. It is also written by Chevy Performance engineers who don't care about warrantying the rest of the vehicle. Plus do you really think GM's lawyers are going to allow them to say "do 3-5 wide open throttle pulls" in a car's manual? Imagine how many people would wreck their cars and sue GM saying they were following the break in.

[mikeyg36]

And I'll leave this here from SSE 4 2SS in a previous thread. It sums everything up nicely and explains why there's a discrepancy between the crate engine break in and the car break in.

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

This is how i break in all of my engines and is supported by information from a reputable engine builder and designer.

You are obviously free to break in the car anyway you wish. Hopefully to put the matter to rest (bwahahaha) there is reasoning for this style of break-in and the procedure to be followed.


This is from Darin Morgan.

The BEST Break for a new car. "very long"
“DISCLAIMER” Do not use the break in procedure below. Do not do hard acceleration runs and load your engine hard. You don't need this much power. I am not responsible for any damage, breakage or massive power increase caused by this crazy break in procedure. Just because every professional engine builder uses this procedure is no reason you should.


IMHO
The manual is written by people following “Corporate procedure” in order to mitigate the company’s exposure both legally and financially. If you don’t do what is outlined in their little manual they have ammo in court and for warranty if they so choose. It has almost nothing to do with how to properly break in an engine.
Some guy takes a new car out and turns the traction control off. He lays the coals to it like he has in his little import and WAMMO, he raps it around a telephone pole. Now what do you think the legal implications would be if the manual said to do 20 -30 hard acceleration runs and something like this happened. The manual has far less to do with break in and much more to do with legal exposure.

For over 25 years I, my family and every single person I am friends with, hang around with and work with build, test, tune, design and race for a living or sport. My brother and I have built some of the fastest engines in the world for just about every form of motor sports you care to name. Engines costing well over 100k-150k. I don’t say this to toot my horn but to give some measure of my background and experience. I do so because the statements I am making in this post will no doubt be controversial for those who have no experience with engine building, component design and high end research and development.

Ask 100 professional engine builders what break in procedure they use (no matter the form of motor sports) and I would venture that 100% would say LOAD them hard and change the oil often. It’s the ONLY way to properly break in an engine and anyone who says otherwise has not a clue what they are talking about. Why do you load the engine? The main reason is ring seal. From a metallurgical stand point both the rings and cylinder walls must “relax” and “conform” in order to properly mate and seal. If this is not done properly, quickly and in proper form the chances of a proper ring seal can be lost for ever. Your rings and cylinder wall wear could increase; the engine will use more oil and make less power. The worse the cylinder hone and free roundness of the ring are, the harder you better load the engine or you don’t have a chance in hell of getting the rings to seal. Some people are worried that they may break something. That may happen then again it may not. It may happen if you don’t use this break in procedure and then again it might not. For me, if its going to break its going to do it in the first thirty minutes of my taking possession of the vehicle I assure you! I will find the weak link now, not later. The break in procedure here is the way ALL our engines are being, and should be broke in.
When I say to make hard acceleration runs and load the engine I am not proposing you drop the clutch at 4200+rpm. The consequences of this could be a dropped drive shaft, input shaft, output shaft or the trans itself. Acceleration runs are not the same as drag racing the thing from stop light to stop light and acting like a 16 year old behind the wheel.. You must be in a rolling start and in the middle of low gear you floor the throttle and let the trans shift all the way to what ever speed you wish then let out of the throttle. DO NOT down shift, not ever, not even once during the course of these runs for at least 250-300miles. I put the car in neutral and release all loads after the run but that me. I don’t propose anyone doing this. Its dangerous and you could throw the thing into reverse if your not very careful. If you do not have professional driving experience, don’t do it. If you need more info go here

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm



Here is what I do and what I am doing as well as the results from doing so.

Just drove mine off the lot. Has 21 miles on it. The dealer REFUSED to fill it with 93 octane. I told him that it was no big deal just leaves what fuel is in it from the factory and I will fill it at a station across the street.

I had about 25 miles on it when I laid into it with all it had and man oh man what a fricken pooch! It would not even begin to bark the rear tire from a dead stop/full throttle up to 30-35miles and even BOGGED the engine from a dead start.

I have kept doing hard acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. Its got 50miles on it and you can feel it coming around with each additional run. I let it cool down for a couple hours before I took it out again.

After the cool down I went back out. 50miles on the odometer and acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. She is starting to get a little life in her. You can feel the difference about ever five runs or so it gets a little more power.

At about 60miles of acceleration runs to 90mph. It will spin the tires up to second and the ass end will shimmy around a little now. I will let it cool down over night.

80miles on the odometer. Acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. . I can feel it pulling better and better after each acceleration run. Its finally started coming into some power and I mean right fricken NOW! It still feels a little sluggish on the shifts though.

135 miles on the odometer. Its really coming around now! It really wants to fry the tires all the way through low gear but wont quite do it. The traction control and stabiletrac are off but it won’t light them up and accelerate through low gear like a 400hp car should. I will let it cool down over night and lay into it in the morning and see how it goes. I have also noticed that the rear end is starting to squat when I accelerate from a dead launch. Good weight transition for the street but feels a little weird.



165miles on odometer and after overnight cool down. ITS ALIVE !!!! She will fry the tires anytime, anywhere all the way through first, shifts at 6200rpm and turns the tire some in second. Now this is what I wanted and hoped I would wake up to! It flat ass rips up the street all the way through the gears. I have driven a host of low 13, high 12 second cars on the street and this thing will do a low 13 second quarter right now, hands down, no question, no problem. I have driven a plethora of 10 second and 11 second cars as well so I have a good indication of where this stands. I was nothing short of shocked at the power increase. I should say that I was nothing short of shocked at the total lack of power for the first 50 miles or so. It didn’t have 250hp when I drove it off the lot and now, it’s a total animal!! I am loving this!

I now am driving it like I stole it and loving every single second. It’s unbelievable how the throttle response and acceleration has come around. It’s a whole new animal and what a mean little nasty animal it is. You hit the throttle and the power is right there, right now. When you hit the throttle it growls and barks, spins the tires and just hauls ass. I now have a perma-grin that a plastic surgeon could not hope to erase! This is, by far the neatest street car I have ever owned.

Quoted from another engine builder...

Most of the big 3 engineers I have met over the years (been building race & performance engines for over 38 years) are knowledgable enough to agree with what I have stated....but they have zero to do with the decisions corporate makes on these matters. The reason they want you to baby the car is so a material defect or problem probably wont show up until warranty expiration and nothing more. If you do some research (not internet hearsay) you will see validation to my claim of the "limited window for rings to properly seat".
Politics and misinformation are so rampant all around us with everything we do that it is a diservice to make claims based upon impression or interpetation, and not actual fact and in depth experiance like I am sharing here.

Just like those that believe there are no mods to improve a cars performance or longevity. "If the factory did not do it, it should not be done" mentallity would never lead us to releases like the COPO drag cars (look at just how many products are outright aftermarket and have NOTING to do with the GM brass and ivory tower managers only looking at the bottom line. Let the engineers loose and the vehicles would be built so well they would never wear out, but the price would be 100 times what the average buyer could afford.

There is always the sacrifices of quality, performance, economy that are the results of corporate directives and decisions.

[fastball]

Originally Posted by mikeyg36

I've commented multiple times on this. You're not going to seal the rings babying the engine. Period. It isn't rocket science, hence why the crate engine has the break-in recommendation that it does. It is also written by Chevy Performance engineers who don't care about warrantying the rest of the vehicle. Plus do you really think GM's lawyers are going to allow them to say "do 3-5 wide open throttle pulls" in a car's manual? Imagine how many people would wreck their cars and sue GM saying they were following the break in.

The owners manual is written by people who know far more about the car than you or any of your "proof" ever will. They are the engineers. Until you get your mechanical engineering or physics degree you and your evidence is moot.

[mikeyg36]

Originally Posted by fastball

The owners manual is written by people who know far more about the car than you or any of your "proof" ever will. They are the engineers. Until you get your mechanical engineering or physics degree you and your evidence is moot.

The same engineers wrote a different break in for the same engine defending my position.

[fastball]

Originally Posted by mikeyg36

The same engineers wrote a different break in for the same engine defending my position.

That's for a crate engine, not a complete car.

Big difference