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Old 01-11-2016, 05:16 PM   #1
The1DoubleN
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LT1 Engine Manual / Guide from Chevy

Here's the installation manual from Chevy for the LT1, explains a lot about the engine:

lt1-crate-engine-dry-and-wet-sump-19328728-19329997.pdf
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:10 PM   #2
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I haven't seen that yet. Thanks for the info!


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Old 01-11-2016, 07:16 PM   #3
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Nice, thanks!
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:15 PM   #4
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Great info, thank you!
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Old 01-11-2016, 10:07 PM   #5
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Ive seen it already I found it weird that the breakin is so much different from the owners manual version its on sheet 10
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:25 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by neal_zack View Post
Ive seen it already I found it weird that the breakin is so much different from the owners manual version its on sheet 10
That's because they are talking about a green crate engine with zero run time.

When buying as a complete car... the engine was run at the engine plant, run at the vehicle assembly plant, run at varying loads on the DVT test at the end of the line, run around the shipping yard, run around the rail yard, run around the dealership parking the car.... So, it has it's thermal cycles and varying loads already done.

The crate motor is going to be green tight. Need to give those parts the right loads and heat cycles to get to know each other.

If anyone ever says... drive it like you stole it from first key up... stop listening to them. You vary the loads, heat cycle it, and work your way up to max power.
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:30 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
If anyone ever says... drive it like you stole it from first key up... stop listening to them. You vary the loads, heat cycle it, and work your way up to max power.
Thank you. There are a few members on this forum who will swear you beat the engine to hell right out of the gate for proper break in.

Like I told them, it's their car they can do what they want, but don't tell others to do the same.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:49 AM   #8
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Thank you. There are a few members on this forum who will swear you beat the engine to hell right out of the gate for proper break in.

Like I told them, it's their car they can do what they want, but don't tell others to do the same.
Yup. They forget they're not solely breaking in the engine. They have an entire vehicle to break in.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:16 AM   #9
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Yup. They forget they're not solely breaking in the engine. They have an entire vehicle to break in.

And these cars, especially the SS, are very tightly wound cars. The transmissions, rear end/diff, suspension components, brakes are all tightly engineered. The prescribed break in procedures should be followed, then you can have a blast with it all you want.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
That's because they are talking about a green crate engine with zero run time.

When buying as a complete car... the engine was run at the engine plant, run at the vehicle assembly plant, run at varying loads on the DVT test at the end of the line, run around the shipping yard, run around the rail yard, run around the dealership parking the car.... So, it has it's thermal cycles and varying loads already done.

The crate motor is going to be green tight. Need to give those parts the right loads and heat cycles to get to know each other.

If anyone ever says... drive it like you stole it from first key up... stop listening to them. You vary the loads, heat cycle it, and work your way up to max power.
+1

It's funny how many people forget that they are breaking in an entire vehicle and not just the engine.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
That's because they are talking about a green crate engine with zero run time.

When buying as a complete car... the engine was run at the engine plant, run at the vehicle assembly plant, run at varying loads on the DVT test at the end of the line, run around the shipping yard, run around the rail yard, run around the dealership parking the car.... So, it has it's thermal cycles and varying loads already done.

The crate motor is going to be green tight. Need to give those parts the right loads and heat cycles to get to know each other.

If anyone ever says... drive it like you stole it from first key up... stop listening to them. You vary the loads, heat cycle it, and work your way up to max power.
look I get that this a breakin guide for a create engine. but step 9 on sheet 10 is where its goes a little left field.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:28 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by neal_zack View Post
look I get that this a breakin guide for a create engine. but step 9 on sheet 10 is where its goes a little left field.
You said it yourself. It's a break in guide for a crate engine. They're not giving you instructions on how to break in the vehicle you're putting the crate engine in, they're giving you instructions on how to break in the engine.

If you were building a vehicle and were putting in a new rear end, transmission, and crate engine, I guarantee you the break in guides for the rear end and transmission are not going to tell you to install them and then do a few WOT runs. They need to be broken in differently. My friend has one that needs to be broken in gently for 500 miles before any hard driving / quick acceleration / burn outs / etc.

You have to break in all of that stuff on the 6th gen.
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:44 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by The1DoubleN View Post
Here's the installation manual from Chevy for the LT1, explains a lot about the engine:

Attachment 766807
Sweet!
Try rhis link also:

http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/?s=no

C/D Yet?
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xgnxs View Post
You said it yourself. It's a break in guide for a crate engine. They're not giving you instructions on how to break in the vehicle you're putting the crate engine in, they're giving you instructions on how to break in the engine.

If you were building a vehicle and were putting in a new rear end, transmission, and crate engine, I guarantee you the break in guides for the rear end and transmission are not going to tell you to install them and then do a few WOT runs. They need to be broken in differently. My friend has one that needs to be broken in gently for 500 miles before any hard driving / quick acceleration / burn outs / etc.

You have to break in all of that stuff on the 6th gen.
You said it perfectly!

I remember back in 09' when people were receiving 5th Gens. People were doing quick mods on the first week. Then, they would go out and do a launch control take off. Then ask humm "How did I destroy my rear end? It's a new car!"

People, Murphy's Quantum Law: If it can go wrong. It will.

Just break in the car, the way it should be done.
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