Break in Procedure - Page 6

ULTRAZLS1 · 01-03-2016, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bells

So the TL;DR on this thread is: drive hard, but change the oil often(500, 1500 miles??)?

The old "drive it super gentile" line always sounded more like "we can't legally tell you to drive fast" to me.

You may even want to switch to conventional right away for even more effective ring seating. There is some debate on this as well. I tend to agree with the concept.

I've always changed to conventional right away. Changed at 500 then 1500 then ran synthetic after that.

Just drove the car as I normally would from day one.

Nor Cal ZL1 · 01-03-2016, 04:10 PM

Aside from the fact your breaking in other systems is tha car as well during the process, just use a reasonable appoach of varied loads and varied reasonable engine speeds.

If your bouncing off redline right off the bat and blow your motor, they will know. These cars record everything they need to know.

paul84043 · 01-03-2016, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyg36

This may be the case with flat tappet cams. This is a hydraulic roller cam; there's no need to break it in.

All of your mating surfaces need to be mated. Period. Cam lobes was just an example.

Don't really care what you do. I'll break mine in the way I want but telling everyone else that break in is pointless is misleading.

mikeyg36 · 01-03-2016, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paul84043

All of your mating surfaces need to be mated. Period. Cam lobes was just an example.

Don't really care what you do. I'll break mine in the way I want but telling everyone else that break in is pointless is misleading.

Where the **** did I say it's pointless?

*SSE 4 2SS* · 01-03-2016, 05:21 PM

Guys, try to keep it civil...

Roller cams do not have to "polish" the surfaces, but there is a process known as work hardening that takes place.

What it all boils down to is it's your car, your money, your choice. Some are going to believe the processes are the same as they were 30 years ago, some buy into change... Some will follow the written line, some will push the envelope. (ME)...

It doesn't do any good to argue over which is better despite what may be known. Anything can be disputed except for the fact that no one gets out alive...

pdoherty972 · 01-04-2016, 03:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlightSoftware

Love or hate Onstar, it's gotta be awesome to be GM and have tons of telemetry streaming in from millions of cars. They'll be able to match the driving history of a car with its maintenance history and determine empirically what, if any, changes to make to their recommended break in procedure.

You'd have to believe they're either evil or stupid to recommend a procedure that doesn't work. And now, they have the data to know for sure if it's working.

You have to remember that your goals and GM's goals are not perfectly aligned. Your goal is to see maximum performance, compression, and zero oil burn; their goal is to get you to the end of the warranty period without them spending any money fixing things.

neal_zack · 01-04-2016, 11:26 AM

I found this and it makes to most since to me im using this as a general guide to breakin its from GM so http://paceperformance.com/p-3978-en...procedure.html

FlightSoftware · 01-04-2016, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdoherty972

You have to remember that your goals and GM's goals are not perfectly aligned.

Agreed.

Otoh, I do wonder how much weight they give to long term reliability in terms of reputation. Before the internet, I would have said "not much". Now? It's trivial to get detailed history and reviews of anything.

IF they care, I think they're in a good position to imrove / refine based on actual data.

xgnxs · 01-04-2016, 01:10 PM

You guys realize you're not JUST breaking in the engine, right? You have the transmission and rear end, which also, of course, need broken in (plus literally all of the other moving parts).

The majority of the previous discussion is talking about breaking in the engine and the engine alone, which is not the whole of the car. That seems to be quickly forgotten whenever the subject of breaking in a vehicle comes up.

My vote is to follow the owners manual.

FlightSoftware · 01-04-2016, 01:13 PM

Good point. It's an entire system that is hopefully transitioning to a new slightly different configuration with good long term characteristics.

Assuming I have an OBD reader, can anyone give any predictions for what should change during the break in period? Or is the break in something that would require disassembly to really monitor / measure?

GroundhogSS · 01-04-2016, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlightSoftware

Good point. It's an entire system that is hopefully transitioning to a new slightly different configuration with good long term characteristics.

Assuming I have an OBD reader, can anyone give any predictions for what should change during the break in period? Or is the break in something that would require disassembly to really monitor / measure?

You can get a Bluetooth ODB reader on Amazon for $15-20 and use the torque app on your phone. Android at least. Not sure about iPhone. Lots of good info there.

z28guy30 · 03-23-2016, 02:26 AM

Props to you if you are able to suppress your testosterone driven urges and stay off the throttle during the break-in period. I just bought mine Friday, and have got on it a handful of times...maybe I should take it easy for 1500 miles though.

drivingagain · 03-23-2016, 10:22 AM

It is good to get on it from time to time. This helps seat the rings properly. Although stay away from redline or max rpms and bogging the engine down in a too high gear until you get at least 1500 miles. Just remember other things need to wear right. Slow consistent stops for the brakes. Clutch ( if you have one) needs to break in as well.

01-03-2016, 05:21 PM	#75
SSE 4 2SS Boosted Moderator Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Marion Tx Posts: 15,500	Guys, try to keep it civil... Roller cams do not have to "polish" the surfaces, but there is a process known as work hardening that takes place. What it all boils down to is it's your car, your money, your choice. Some are going to believe the processes are the same as they were 30 years ago, some buy into change... Some will follow the written line, some will push the envelope. (ME)... It doesn't do any good to argue over which is better despite what may be known. Anything can be disputed except for the fact that no one gets out alive... __________________ If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...

01-04-2016, 11:26 AM	#77
neal_zack Drives: 2016 camaro ss Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: spokane Posts: 329	I found this and it makes to most since to me im using this as a general guide to breakin its from GM so http://paceperformance.com/p-3978-en...procedure.html __________________ Summit white, 2SS, Ceramic white interior, 6 piston brakes, Black Bowties, 6 Speed,3.9 sec 0to60 NPP,MRC,NAV,RX Catch can

01-03-2016, 04:10 PM	#72
Nor Cal ZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,825	Aside from the fact your breaking in other systems is tha car as well during the process, just use a reasonable appoach of varied loads and varied reasonable engine speeds. If your bouncing off redline right off the bat and blow your motor, they will know. These cars record everything they need to know.

01-04-2016, 01:10 PM	#79
xgnxs Drives: 2005 Cobalt Base - 5 speed Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ohio Posts: 444	You guys realize you're not JUST breaking in the engine, right? You have the transmission and rear end, which also, of course, need broken in (plus literally all of the other moving parts). The majority of the previous discussion is talking about breaking in the engine and the engine alone, which is not the whole of the car. That seems to be quickly forgotten whenever the subject of breaking in a vehicle comes up. My vote is to follow the owners manual.

01-04-2016, 01:13 PM	#80
FlightSoftware Drives: '95 Corvette, '06 Mustang, 2LT RS Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Alabama Posts: 428	Good point. It's an entire system that is hopefully transitioning to a new slightly different configuration with good long term characteristics. Assuming I have an OBD reader, can anyone give any predictions for what should change during the break in period? Or is the break in something that would require disassembly to really monitor / measure?

03-23-2016, 02:26 AM	#82
z28guy30 Drives: 2016 camaro 1ss Join Date: May 2011 Location: hawaii Posts: 326 View My Garage	Props to you if you are able to suppress your testosterone driven urges and stay off the throttle during the break-in period. I just bought mine Friday, and have got on it a handful of times...maybe I should take it easy for 1500 miles though.

03-23-2016, 10:22 AM	#83
drivingagain Drives: 2015 Tiger XCX,2016 Camaro 1SS,LBZ! Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Palm Coast, FL Posts: 1,311	It is good to get on it from time to time. This helps seat the rings properly. Although stay away from redline or max rpms and bogging the engine down in a too high gear until you get at least 1500 miles. Just remember other things need to wear right. Slow consistent stops for the brakes. Clutch ( if you have one) needs to break in as well.

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