10-31-2013, 02:04 PM | #15 |
Negative Camber Junkie
Drives: 2010 1SS LS3/6MN ABM 1 of 23 Join Date: May 2009
Location: ChiTown, IL
Posts: 1,824
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Also be careful in the rear, if you go too low you can affect the axle life and geometry. Causing you to break the seals around the knuckles if not the knuckles themselves.
Pedders recommends no less than 660mm measured from the lip of the rim to the fender to avoid damage. Just FYI. If you search through this section you will find posts regarding this issue. T.
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same. Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different. I can't wait for my next Track fix. DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!! |
10-31-2013, 05:53 PM | #16 | |
Drives: 2013 Summit White Camaro 2SS RS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 278
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Quote:
19 inch needs a 647.3 mm ride height 18 inch needs a 634.6 mm ride height 18 inch calculations for reference: 20 - 18 = 2 inch difference Only half of that 2 inch difference matters when measuring ride height. So change in ride height measurement is 1 inch, which is equal to 25.4mm. 660 - 25.4 = 634.6 mm But Pete may have that height recommendation based off other factors. I'm not sure. He is the expert though. Mabye he will chime in. |
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11-01-2013, 10:36 PM | #17 |
Drives: Camaro 2010 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 60
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I just installed bcr coilovers. Car is 1 in lower than stock and there is a lot of adjustment left. Probably 1.5 in between the locking nuts
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11-08-2013, 10:49 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2015 SS Sedan M6 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,086
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did you remember to "reclock" your bushings after adjusting the ride height?
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11-09-2013, 06:49 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,019
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Reclocking the upper control arm bushings cannot be done but the others can be. If all of them have been swapped with polys then its not needed.
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Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X |
04-07-2014, 10:01 AM | #20 |
Did anybody solve this?
I just got my BCs Installed and it looks exactly like the first pictures. I'm out of adjustment. Not that I want my car any lower. It looks great as is, but I want to make sure they are setup properly. something I should add, I preloaded the springs myself. some people have said that the spring preload is set by BC. Could that be the problem? |
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04-07-2014, 12:48 PM | #21 |
Yes you should not mess with the pre loading. You are not supposed to mess with the spring loading as per manufacture (2 top lock nuts). As stated by others above the seals can be affected and the rear end geometry can be affected. "Bad"...
You adjust your ride height by loosening the bottom lock nut and spinning the upper part into the "body" (the part that bolts to your hub). You must do this while the car is jacked up and there is no load on the coil overs. The video above shows you how to do it. |
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04-07-2014, 03:55 PM | #22 |
Thanks Jerry7297,
I'll jack up the car today and remove the spring preload. I'm assuming just enough tension so that the spring does not move up or down. also, I did adjust the height of the car using the bottom lock and spinning the shock body, by the time the car looked low enough there was no thread left between the spring lock nuts and the height nut (lower nut). |
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04-07-2014, 10:10 PM | #23 | |
No problem. Hope it works out for you.
This may also help you also. Last edited by Jerry7297; 04-08-2014 at 11:26 AM. |
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04-09-2014, 10:48 AM | #24 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 130
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04-12-2014, 08:18 PM | #25 |
Drives: 2010 2SS CGM Camaro, 1988 6.6L IROC Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 157
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Check your ride height with the endlinks removed at one end. If you're not using non-adjustable endlinks, you're most likely pre-loading the sway bars adding adjustable spring tension. Stock endlinks at a lower ride height would put preload on the sway bars.
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06-10-2014, 09:19 PM | #26 |
MiSTER,
Thank you, I know this was a long time ago. I went back checked and double checked. Nothing helped the car go any lower. So I will check my sway bars to make sure they have not been pre-loaded like you stated. I installed the Turbonetics Kit so now I actually need to lift the car because the wastegates scrape here and there. |
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06-10-2014, 09:31 PM | #27 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Grand Prairie, Texas
Posts: 1,608
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The problem is the way they were set up. You can slam the car with them if that is what you want.
The picture I posted shows how they should be set up. I could set my car on the tires if I wanted.
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06-11-2014, 10:02 AM | #28 |
Bkscott, when I was setting them up I followed BCs youtube video for preload.
Than I went back and removed all the preload. nothing seemed to help. you can see how low the car is in some of my profile pictures. the only thing left is disconecting the swaybars see if that helps. btw they are not the stock ones. they are the eibach ones. Other than that, the shocks work great! |
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Tags |
bc racing, coilovers, drop, lower |
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