[DamonZ28]

I just changed the front pads in my 2SS (4 piston Brembos) to Power Stop ceramic pads. I did the pad break in, but now the brake pedal travels a lot further toward the floor before activating the brakes. I did not bleed the brake lines yet, is that what I need to do? Or is there something else?

[CalgaryZL1]

Technically you shouldn’t need to bleed the brakes if you carefully retracted your pistons, not sure why your travel would change as opposed to braking performance as that will decrease with said new brand of brake pads. I run the same brand and to me it is worth the dust to performance trade off, but I also don’t track my car

[cdb95z28]

A different pad may have different pedal feel. Ceramic is not the most performance/feel oriented pad material.

While bed in can induce pad fade, which is a decrease in friction with a firm pedal, if you got your brakes extremely hot you may have boiled your fluid. Especially if it is very old or original. You said it now has a long pedal. Would you say the pedal is also softer? And the long pedal is still there after a cool down to ambient temps?

Pedal feel after pad fade typically will allow the friction to return once cooled down. As I mentioned fade usually is still a firm pedal.

Then there is hot compressability which is the pedal (fluid) softening when the fluid gets hot, but once cooled to ambient, the pedal returns to the original feel. The fluid doesn't get hot enough to boil.

And finally if the fluid got hot enough to boil, boiled fluid will stay soft, even after the brakes have cooled to ambient.

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

While bed in can induce pad fade, which is a decrease in friction with a firm pedal, if you got your brakes extremely hot you may have boiled your fluid. Especially if it is very old or original. You said it now has a long pedal. Would you say the pedal is also softer? And the long pedal is still there after a cool down to ambient temps?

I'm the 2nd owner, but car has 36,000 miles so I'm guessing it's the original fluid. The pedal might be a little softer, but I notice it's mostly just longer. I did 4-5 40-10 stops and 4-5 35-5 stops per the directions on the pads. Not sure if that would be enough to boil the fluid? Anyway, I've driven the car to work (about 30 miles round trip) a couple of times, and the pedal hasn't changed. I think I'll definitely do a fluid bleed/change very soon & see if that helps.

Would it have anything to do with the metal "clip" that goes over the pads? The clip that Powerstop sent doesn't even resemble the clip that was originally on the pads, and it bows out quite a bit. I can get a pic shortly during lunch break. I kept the original clips & pads since there's still about half of the life left on the pads (in case I need pads in a pinch).

[DamonZ28]

Here are the pics of the clips sticking out.

[DamonZ28]

I also checked my brake fluid. It's maybe 1/4 inch low, and very dark brown, almost black. Definitely time to change it out.

[DamonZ28]

I bled/replaced the brake fluid today. I had also messaged Power Stop. They said I had installed the brake springs backwards, so I also turned them around. Now the brakes are better than they were before. Very pleased with how it turned out. This is how they're supposed to look, along with a pic of the bleeding process.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by DamonZ28

Here are the pics of the clips sticking out.

Those springs are installed backwards, you need to turn them around...


EDIT: Just saw you found that out from PowerStop...

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Those springs are installed backwards, you need to turn them around...

You must have missed my last post just 20 minutes before - I did turn them around today.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by DamonZ28

You must have missed my last post just 20 minutes before - I did turn them around today.

Yeah, as soon as I saw the picture of them backwards I just hit reply to that post, glad you got it squared away...

How easy was the bleeding/replacing the brake fluid? I think I may do mine with some high temp stuff...

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

How easy was the bleeding/replacing the brake fluid? I think I may do mine with some high temp stuff...

It was very easy. I used the Allstar Performance Bleeder Bottle (see pic above, Amazon link http://a.co/d/9LfS4fi) and just pumped the brakes to bleed the fluid. Took about 15-20 pumps for the rear brakes on the first bleeder screw (less pumps on the 2nd bleeder screw), but only about 10-15 pumps for the fronts.

Here are the steps I did, just in case you don't know (or others reading the post):
1. Crack open the brake fluid reservoir & make sure it's full. I used a fluid transfer pump & sucked the old fluid out of the reservoir, and replaced it with new fluid to cut down on the bleeding time a little.
2. Start with the brakes furthest from the fluid reservoir & move closer. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.
3. 4 piston Brembos have 2 bleeder screws, make sure to bleed both on each caliper.
4. Make sure to keep the brake fluid topped off after bleeding each bleeder screw.

You could also use the Mityvac hand pump system, but I think that would make my hand sore, lol.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by DamonZ28

It was very easy. I used the Allstar Performance Bleeder Bottle (see pic above, Amazon link http://a.co/d/9LfS4fi) and just pumped the brakes to bleed the fluid. Took about 15-20 pumps for the rear brakes on the first bleeder screw (less pumps on the 2nd bleeder screw), but only about 10-15 pumps for the fronts.

Here are the steps I did, just in case you don't know (or others reading the post):
1. Crack open the brake fluid reservoir & make sure it's full. I used a fluid transfer pump & sucked the old fluid out of the reservoir, and replaced it with new fluid to cut down on the bleeding time a little.
2. Start with the brakes furthest from the fluid reservoir & move closer. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.
3. 4 piston Brembos have 2 bleeder screws, make sure to bleed both on each caliper.
4. Make sure to keep the brake fluid topped off after bleeding each bleeder screw.

You could also use the Mityvac hand pump system, but I think that would make my hand sore, lol.

Awesome, thanks!

I've changed the fluid on a couple of my other cars just never this one, which fluid did you go with? And how much fluid does the entire system take (how much do I need to buy?)

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Awesome, thanks!

I've changed the fluid on a couple of my other cars just never this one, which fluid did you go with? And how much fluid does the entire system take (how much do I need to buy?)

I just went with Prestone DOT 4 synthetic. I used almost 2 quarts. You might get away with using a little over a quart, but I had some gunk in the fluid reservoir so I sucked the fluid out about 4 times, in addition to the bleeding. Not sure where the gunk came from.

I've seen Motul RBF 600 Dot-4 Synthetic Racing Brake Fluid recommended here. $61 for 2 liters, vs. $25 for 2 quarts.

[Ventmaster]

Alot of information on this topic from one of the threads you can find in the DIY forum- https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=545244