How to Negotiate?

[iBoltx]

I went by the dealership today to look at a 2010 Camaro 2SS Manual with 8,700 miles. The car was traded-in about a week ago. The price tag on the car was $30,900 CAD ($23,000 USD). The online price is $29,000 CAD ($22,400 USD) Although the price may seem low if you're American, a 2013 1SS Camaro 30,000 miles in Canada is roughly $29,800 ($22,675 USD), and a 2011 2SS Camaro 32,000 miles is roughly $23,900 CAD ($17,800 USD)

https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/ctd/6019238214.html

Features:
-Yellow Engine Cover
-Aftermarket Grounds Effect Package
-Aftermarket Navigation Radio System
-Back-up Camera attached and linked to Navigation
-Yellow Floor Mats (Driver, Passenger, and Back)
-Aftermarket Black Rims

After the test drive, I asked the dealer what was the absolute best price he can do for me, he mentioned that it was firm on $29,990 CAD ($22,400 USD). I also feel like he isn't taking me seriously. I am 20 years old, but I mentioned to him that I'm getting around $30,000 for a motorcycle claim and my parents are going to pay for it first. Does my age play a factor into this?

A member on the forum mentioned to me that I could knock $1000 off the price with the potential wiring nightmare associated with the aftermarket navigation. When I mentioned this to him, he said it was done professionally.

When I asked for the Carproof, it shows the car actually came from Manitoba, about 1,400 miles away from where the car is now (Vancouver). Other than that, everything else is clean.

It also doesn't help that the guy that traded this Camaro in for a Cadillac brought the Camaro in on a flat deck. The dealer constantly brings this up to help him prove that everything is done professionally and it's one of a kind.

Having said all of this, what would be the best way to knock off a couple bucks for the car? I told him that I'm bringing my parents over tomorrow.

[zr1chris]

$22,400 for 8,700 miles is already excellent. Not sure how much better you can get than that.

[JLSuperfly]

Just make an offer. The worst that can happen is he will say no.

[Welker2]

IMO, you shouldn't have mentioned the settlement, especially since it is for more then they are asking for the car. You should have made a counter offer of a few thousand less and worked from there. This is what I've done in the past and have gotten them to knock off anywhere between $3k-$1K (US)

[splashlog48]

Grab it before someone else does !!!

[KJZ28]

That is a killer deal with those miles. J

[Reaper85]

You can't compair it directly against the usd. I feel that price is high. I did a quick search here in Ontario and I can get the same car within 10k km for around 25k. Ontario prices are always higher than out west. It's your choice if you want to snatch it up now at a higher price or look for a better deal. Also never ever mention money your coming into.

Use that to help negotiate lower km same price 2 years newer. It's a 1st but still similar

http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Chevrolet...orup=17_15_320

6500 km 5 years newer little more expensive but way better buy in my opinion
http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Chevrolet...orup=20_15_320

Same car your looking at but cheaper.
http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Chevrolet...orup=36_15_320

[kingz]

All true

[STUNNAH]

You may as well search for another dealer or private sale...You've told them everything they need to know to get top dollar out of you...You mentioned a '13 with higher mileage and a lower price, that may be a better deal overall as I understand the '13 had some upgrades that the '10 does not have...

[LCPLPunk]

Just buy the car man! That mileage is nothing...

[terry_b]

Like Stunnah said, '13+ has the updated/improved suspension geometry. Those suspension are worth it unless you plan to swap out parts yourself. Like some of the other posts mentioned, you can definitely do better - That blue Camaro linked above is a much more rare option than the yellow.

Regarding that specific car; it's listed with navigation as a "very rare option" - it's not an option on something from that year. That whole unit has been swapped out. If the dealer is insistent that it was all done "professionally", ask for receipts. If the dealer says it was brought it on a flatbed, does that mean the car wasn't running or driveable when it came in?

You said that you're only 20, the dealer knows this and will not expect you to be thorough. He wants you to be an easy sale because you're young and the car is flashy. I know this because I've been there. My 2 most recent new car purchases I asked to see the invoice ( they don't have to show you - but it can help negotiate ). I used that number to work down from, then had them add in the other GM discounts, then added my GM $1k voucher... the dealership wanted the sale but they were blown away by how thoroughly I approached it. That was a far cry from the first new car I ought from them - at sticker price, no questions asked. Just be smart about it

[pyroguy]

The best thing to do in negotiations is to shut up. If you start spilling all kinds of information such as you are getting a settlement for more than they are asking for the car, then the dealer will become very uninterested in negotiating. However, as stated above give them a realistic yet slightly low number and see how interested they are in negotiating and then shut up. They likely won't come down as low as you want, but I bet they come down some. If not, maintain walk away power. Remember GM built a bunch of these things and even though you may not get a MyLink on a 2010 without installing yourself again, there's plenty of other great vehicles out there. Ultimately since you've stated you are bringing your parents into the negotiation, you are getting a settlement for higher than the asking price and you are obviously seriously in love with this car, I'd say the chances of getting much if any price knocked off of this car is slim to none.

[MrChrisLS3]

It's a 2010 Camaro. Yes, the miles are incredibly low, but it's still a 2010 Camaro. Not a collector item, and with the aftermarket stuff, even less so. Don't let the dealer make you think it adds to the value.

Research, do your homework. This car is worth no more than what any other low mile 2010 is selling for. At that price, as others have said, you can get a newer, more advanced model year.

Use a little common sense. You are going to drive this car, and those miles will go up quickly, thus the "low mile" value will fade quickly. If this is in your price range, you can find a newer model. Don't get overly focused on the low miles, it really doesn't mean that much. A well maintained car at 30K miles is just as good.

If you like this particular car, and it is the "one". Don't let your emotions get the better of you. Take your research findings, and give them a low reasonable offer. Your first price should be at the avg selling price in your area for a 2010 similarly equipped. Their strategy is to start high and work down. Counter act this by starting low. Heck, walk in at the $17.5K. Let them laugh and keep quiet. Make them work with your price, don't let them make you struggle with theirs. Just know what your max price is, and be prepared to walk if they won't do it. It's your money, it's your decision, make sure they know that, and that you are serious about buying it at your price.

[O.F.]

Money talks, bullsh*t walks...and car dealers are all the masters of bullsh*t!

Don't do another thing until you have the cash in hand. Once you do have the funds available, now you are a cash customer.
You drive.