[Kent A]

The LT-1 OEM front Brembo 4 piston brake pads went away after 2 twenty-minute HPDE sessions at Sebring this last weekend.

Have ~2600 miles on car.

Never lost the brakes, just smelled them. The pads (probably not Brembo) were white from overheating. I hit every auto parts store in Sebring to no avail. As a last resort visited the Chevy dealer who told me the pads are back ordered from GM with a 2/19 availability at ~$550.00 just for the front pads.

When I got home called my local NAPA as it shows they have standard and "high performance." About $65.00 for the front pads. Should be here Monday. I will update as to correct fitment.

I read about this subject on a forum in here the other day but can't find that thread today. Moderators feel free to move this post accordingly.

Also looking at the Blackwing front air deflectors, etc.

Kent

Plan B is replacing front brakes with a 1LE set-up.

We shall see.

[cdb95z28]

Take it from a guy who has about 12+ years tracking three different generations of Camaros. You need cooling. Yes, the BW deflectors move lots of air. But they will only work properly if the nose of your LT1 allows the air to get to them. I am not familiar with the LT1 nose, but there has to be ducting within the nose that allows the air to get to the deflectors. You actually may be better off with the SS deflectors. These come in the trunk of the non 1LE SS models. And they may be easier to find. They hang down to help scoop air from beneath the car. On the SS 1LE/ZL1/ZLE the deflectors are fed, in part, with air that exits the aux coolers that are ahead of the front fender liners. I am not educated on whether the LT1 has these aux coolers.

Flush your fluid with Castrol SRF. Brake cooling and great fluid are the most important things you need for tracking.

Don't go to NAPA for pads. Pads for tracking are another level of heat capacity. And don't go to a dealer for that matter. You can find genuine GM parts elsewhere, for less.
While you may have cooked the "good" out of your OE pads, I would not rule out replacing them with another set of OEs yet. A lack of cooling can cook even race pads. Your RPO code for the brakes is probably J55. If so, I'm seeing the front pad # is 85142439. And they are out there alot cheaper than $550. Look on the back of your OE pads. If they are stamped Ferodo HP1000, they are actually an excellent dual purpose street/track compound. Same non copper free compound found on the SS 1LE and ZL1/ZLE brakes. Without cooling, even the HP1000 will get toasted.

While smelling the pads is not an immediate concern pointing to failure, it does mean they are getting hot. Reduced friction while still having a stiff pedal points to pad fade. Which means the pads have exceeded their temp rating. Pedal softening/lengthening would be another more serious sign of fluid overheat. If the latter improves after the brakes have cooled to ambient then there might be some hot compressibility trait within the fluid. That varies between different fluid manufacturers. Soft/long pedal with greatly reduced to no friction would be outright fluid boiling and things can get ugly real quick there. Do not ignore any of these signs. Once fluid boils fresh fluid is the only cure. Overheated pads may recover with enough cooling.

A 1LE brake upgrade would be a great choice. When it comes to heat management for road course abuse, mass matters. More mass (bigger brakes), to a point, is beneficial. The increased mass can absorb more heat.

Even better, move up to an SS 1LE. If you have the means I highly recommend it. If you want to get serious about tracking, the SS 1LE will offer many more benefits well beyond the chassis perfection. Otherwise, you definitely can get your LT1 to a better place with reguard to brake cooling and performance.

Enjoy!

[Hack]

If you want to do more road course driving, I would encourage upgrading to at least an SS, as there is a lot more cooling. Yes, the brakes on your LT1 got hot, but the brakes aren't the only component on the car that can overheat. I assume you haven't done a lot of track driving yet, based on your questions. As you improve at track driving you will get a lot faster. The heat in the car will get a lot worse, and you will just chase the heat problem from one area of the car to the next.

Engine, transmission, rear differential - all will probably need cooling. It really adds up and then you will have trouble getting the cost of the modifications back out of the car when you sell. Also, aftermarket add-ons probably won't be as reliable as OE quality of equipment.

I own an LT1, but I bought with the understanding that it would be best to keep as a street driver only.

[turbojeep95]

Had the same issue with my LT1 on the track. Those stock California compliant low copper pads get chewed up pretty quick. When looking for front pads try searching for the Corvette C8 z51 pads. They threw these calipers on our lt1's out of the chevy parts bin when the copper brake pad fiasco came about a couple years ago and most of the aftermarket hasn't figured it out yet so the standard SS pads are too small. Also, if you get the blackwing air deflectors it wont make too much of a difference unless you get the brake ducts and install them from an SS. If you want rear pads for the small calipers I've had good luck on the track with the rock auto dynamic friction track pads.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Take it from a guy who has about 12+ years tracking three different generations of Camaros. You need cooling. Yes, the BW deflectors move lots of air. But they will only work properly if the nose of your LT1 allows the air to get to them. I am not familiar with the LT1 nose, but there has to be ducting within the nose that allows the air to get to the deflectors. You actually may be better off with the SS deflectors. These come in the trunk of the non 1LE SS models. And they may be easier to find. They hang down to help scoop air from beneath the car. On the SS 1LE/ZL1/ZLE the deflectors are fed, in part, with air that exits the aux coolers that are ahead of the front fender liners. I am not educated on whether the LT1 has these aux coolers.

Flush your fluid with Castrol SRF. Brake cooling and great fluid are the most important things you need for tracking.

Don't go to NAPA for pads. Pads for tracking are another level of heat capacity. And don't go to a dealer for that matter. You can find genuine GM parts elsewhere, for less.
While you may have cooked the "good" out of your OE pads, I would not rule out replacing them with another set of OEs yet. A lack of cooling can cook even race pads. Your RPO code for the brakes is probably J55. If so, I'm seeing the front pad # is 85142439. And they are out there alot cheaper than $550. Look on the back of your OE pads. If they are stamped Ferodo HP1000, they are actually an excellent dual purpose street/track compound. Same non copper free compound found on the SS 1LE and ZL1/ZLE brakes. Without cooling, even the HP1000 will get toasted.

This. I can 100% guarantee you a $65 dollar "performance" pad from Napa will not work. I'd bet the stock LT1 pads are the same as the stock non-1le SS pads. Those are good for a beginner to intermediate level driver.

[dpevans]

Agree with what's already been said, you have to use dot 4 race fluid and track pads. I am not familiar with the front grille on the LT1 but I thought they shared the same as a standard Camaro. You can tell you have cooling ducts, peek inside your front wheel inner fender do you see a big screen in the front, if you do, does it have black air ducts attached to the control arm. If you don't have the big screen and your inner fender liner is solid you don't have any brake cooling systems on the car. I tracked my 2016 LGX RS without any of the cooling ducts I used track fluid and pads and was able to track without loosing any pedal. The first year I went out I was using BF goodrich comp2 AS which worked out well, enough grip to challenge myself but not enough to generate too much heat in the brakes. The mistake I made was putting on Goodyear SC3 the second year and the grip of the tire created too much heat for the calipers and rotors and I ended up having to rebuild the calipers. I have since upgraded to the 1LE because I wanted a track car and it was cheaper then spending the money to upgrade the brakes and chassis and I still wouldn't have all the benefits of having a 1LE.

[DevilsReject97]

4 piston brakes on a car of that size are a no go for road racing. Can completely agree with everything else that's been said here as well..

Quite frankly, the LT1 is a much better 1/4 mile choice than road racing. Might consider looking for a junked Camaro that's been rear-ended to grab parts off of...

[Kent A]

I am running Toyo Proxes, FYI.

Lower front fascia does have 2 small air ducts. Waiting on the brake pads to pull the front wheels and investigate cooling ducts further, so multiple brake cooling options exist at this point, all of which are mentioned above.

I tend to agree the 1LE front 6 piston Brembo's will also help a lot. I have a line on a used set.

Not going to the track again until sort this out.

It was my first time on a new track in a new car so I'm sure I used more brake than I will as time/experience progress.

Only other mods are Rotofab and axle-back. Not sure how much (if any) additional performance these provide other than it sure does sound impressive

Thank you all for the input!

[Kent A]

Coorect - RPO code is J55. Here is the best price I've found:

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...-pins-85142439

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Take it from a guy who has about 12+ years tracking three different generations of Camaros. You need cooling. Yes, the BW deflectors move lots of air. But they will only work properly if the nose of your LT1 allows the air to get to them. I am not familiar with the LT1 nose, but there has to be ducting within the nose that allows the air to get to the deflectors. You actually may be better off with the SS deflectors. These come in the trunk of the non 1LE SS models. And they may be easier to find. They hang down to help scoop air from beneath the car. On the SS 1LE/ZL1/ZLE the deflectors are fed, in part, with air that exits the aux coolers that are ahead of the front fender liners. I am not educated on whether the LT1 has these aux coolers.

Flush your fluid with Castrol SRF. Brake cooling and great fluid are the most important things you need for tracking.

Don't go to NAPA for pads. Pads for tracking are another level of heat capacity. And don't go to a dealer for that matter. You can find genuine GM parts elsewhere, for less.
While you may have cooked the "good" out of your OE pads, I would not rule out replacing them with another set of OEs yet. A lack of cooling can cook even race pads. Your RPO code for the brakes is probably J55. If so, I'm seeing the front pad # is 85142439. And they are out there alot cheaper than $550. Look on the back of your OE pads. If they are stamped Ferodo HP1000, they are actually an excellent dual purpose street/track compound. Same non copper free compound found on the SS 1LE and ZL1/ZLE brakes. Without cooling, even the HP1000 will get toasted.

While smelling the pads is not an immediate concern pointing to failure, it does mean they are getting hot. Reduced friction while still having a stiff pedal points to pad fade. Which means the pads have exceeded their temp rating. Pedal softening/lengthening would be another more serious sign of fluid overheat. If the latter improves after the brakes have cooled to ambient then there might be some hot compressibility trait within the fluid. That varies between different fluid manufacturers. Soft/long pedal with greatly reduced to no friction would be outright fluid boiling and things can get ugly real quick there. Do not ignore any of these signs. Once fluid boils fresh fluid is the only cure. Overheated pads may recover with enough cooling.

A 1LE brake upgrade would be a great choice. When it comes to heat management for road course abuse, mass matters. More mass (bigger brakes), to a point, is beneficial. The increased mass can absorb more heat.

Even better, move up to an SS 1LE. If you have the means I highly recommend it. If you want to get serious about tracking, the SS 1LE will offer many more benefits well beyond the chassis perfection. Otherwise, you definitely can get your LT1 to a better place with reguard to brake cooling and performance.

Enjoy!

[Kent A]

At this point upgrading to an SS or ZL1 1LE is not an option. Just purchased this LT-1 last October and have already invested in the Toyo's, axle back, Roto-Fab, Koni yellow adjustable struts and shocks, Eibach lowering springs, bump stops, BMR adjustable end link kit (front and rear), BMR front and rear sway bars, BMR Double Adjustable Rear Toe Rods; BMR On-Car Adjustable Rear Lower Trailing Arms; Rod Ends, BMR Front of Rear Cradle Chassis Brace, BMR Rear of Rear Cradle Chassis Brace, BMR Driveshaft Tunnel Brace; Aluminum, and Gurney Flap/Wickerbill Spoiler Paint and Installation. Also have front racing seats, a 4-point roll cage and Simpson 5-PT safety harnesses.

As the LT-1 is new with ~2600 miles I assumed the Brembo front brakes were fine. Oops! Never even gave the brakes a thought!

Silly me LOL!

[Kent A]

I have the 10-speed auto with external tranny cooler. Was that politically correct?

Originally Posted by Hack

If you want to do more road course driving, I would encourage upgrading to at least an SS, as there is a lot more cooling. Yes, the brakes on your LT1 got hot, but the brakes aren't the only component on the car that can overheat. I assume you haven't done a lot of track driving yet, based on your questions. As you improve at track driving you will get a lot faster. The heat in the car will get a lot worse, and you will just chase the heat problem from one area of the car to the next.

Engine, transmission, rear differential - all will probably need cooling. It really adds up and then you will have trouble getting the cost of the modifications back out of the car when you sell. Also, aftermarket add-ons probably won't be as reliable as OE quality of equipment.

I own an LT1, but I bought with the understanding that it would be best to keep as a street driver only.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by Kent A

At this point upgrading to an SS or ZL1 1LE is not an option. Just purchased this LT-1 last October and have already invested in the Toyo's, axle back, Roto-Fab, Koni yellow adjustable struts and shocks, Eibach lowering springs, bump stops, BMR adjustable end link kit (front and rear), BMR front and rear sway bars, BMR Double Adjustable Rear Toe Rods; BMR On-Car Adjustable Rear Lower Trailing Arms; Rod Ends, BMR Front of Rear Cradle Chassis Brace, BMR Rear of Rear Cradle Chassis Brace, BMR Driveshaft Tunnel Brace; Aluminum, and Gurney Flap/Wickerbill Spoiler Paint and Installation. Also have front racing seats, a 4-point roll cage and Simpson 5-PT safety harnesses.

As the LT-1 is new with ~2600 miles I assumed the Brembo front brakes were fine. Oops! Never even gave the brakes a thought!

Silly me LOL!

Shoulda bought an SS...

[arpad_m]

Kent, you bought a specifically non-racing variant of the Camaro and you're trying to turn it into an SS or SS 1LE, which is an uphill battle.

However, considering that upgrading is no longer an option, what I'd do at least is to make sure the car has the brake ducting up front through the grille and the wheel well liner, then add the SS or the SS 1LE brake deflectors to the lower control arms, the small brake shield from the SS 1LE, and if that isn't enough, possibly even the 6-piston SS 1LE or ZL1 front brake rotors/pads.

You can do this in stages, the ducting and deflectors/shields are cheap items that guarantee much more airflow to the rotors. Yeah, you won't have the extra coolers from the SS / ZL1, but this should help and my be sufficient.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Kent A

Coorect - RPO code is J55. Here is the best price I've found:

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...-pins-85142439

Here ya go. Genuine Ferodo HP1000 compound:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=622807