[1hprush]

Been searching for a diy under the hood install with the battery tender eyelets. One that I could leave attached and just plug into. This has been a bit of a challenge because the positive post is small and at first glance, it doesn't seem possible....however, I came up with this idea so maybe this may work for you too.

Please note: I am not a certified mechanic, the project below has worked for me, however your results may vary, therefore I take no responsibility for the outcome or your ability to perform this task.

So...on with the project!

1)Below are the tools and procedures I used for this project.
2)The tender eyelet on the cord is to big to fit around the (+) post. So I cut a 1/4" piece out of the eyelet to reduce the size.
3)Using the needle nose pliers shape, reform and mold the eyelet to make it smaller.
4)Then use the pliers to pinch the two ends together to form the new eyelet, then test fit until the eyelet fits snug around the post.
5)Then hook up the tender power cord to the eyelet and route through the hood latch, down and out through the front grill.
6)(Optional) The (+) cap will not fully seat back on the bracket until you make an adjustment with the Dremel the cap will
sit on top of the eyelet cord just fine if you choose not to go this route, however I prefer a clean look.
8)I used the cone grinding stone to form a cutout so the cap will seat back on the bracket around the post.
9)All clean and buttoned up. I've been using this setup now for 2 weeks trouble free. Good Luck!

[Sftshldr]

Nice! Thanks for the write up!

[Blazin383]

Interesting, and thanks for posting your process. You don't really indicate how you secure hot lead to the post beyond just putting the plastic cap back on. Also, what are you doing with the ground? Have you had any issues with running the cable through the hood latch area? Looks a little precarious to me.

[Glen e]

Nice project...no downsides....

[1hprush]

Originally Posted by Blazin383

Interesting, and thanks for posting your process. You don't really indicate how you secure hot lead to the post beyond just putting the plastic cap back on. Also, what are you doing with the ground? Have you had any issues with running the cable through the hood latch area? Looks a little precarious to me.

Form the eyelet with needle nose pliers so it fits snug around the post, no need to secure it, seems to stay in place. It may take a couple test fits and maybe some patience to get it exactly the way you want it. As long as the copper eyelet is making contact with the post, even if it slides up or down a little, you're good. If it losses contact the red light on the tender will flash. The negative eyelet is secured under the bolt on the (-) post, easy, no modifying. Plenty of room in the hood latch cavity to fish the cord through, no issues there. Been using it now for a couple weeks.

Originally Posted by Glen e

Nice project...no downsides....

None so far, except maybe if you forget to unplug it before moving you car. The only other was a personal preference, I wanted the (+) cap to fit back onto it's bracket, so I had to modify the cap, easy to do if you have a Dremel. However, make sure you unplug it if lightening and thunderstorms are in the area.

[Wierd Harold]

May I suggest you put a flat washer and nut on the stud in case you get an intermittent connection.

[Wierd Harold]

Oops not threaded.you could use one of those stamped sheet metal nuts to secure it.

[PinHead]

FYI,

A battery tender/charger is only a type of transformer.

After you connect the Tender to your Car's Battery take a 110V Volt Meter and check for voltage on the Edison Plug on the Tender/Charger.

You might be surprised that its now converting 12V to AC(volts) by being back-fed.

[spotswood]

It seems that you are attaching the battery tender loom to the front of the car that is for jumping the car.
Is there any difference from attaching directly to the battery posts in which case you will need to figure out how to get access to the battery in the trunk. I can only see half of the battery and one terminal when inspecting through the side panel opening in the rear right trunk area.
The Pinhead post went right over my head talking about converting 12V to AC. Care to explain that?
Thanks
I was going to try to hook up my battery tender loom this evening or the camaro charger as I am leaving the car sitting for 2 weeks starting tomorrow.

[Glen e]

The front charging posts get to the back battery, so it doesn't matter if only half the system is connected to it , the full charge is going to the battery. Perfectly acceptable to charge from the front.

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by spotswood

The Pinhead post went right over my head talking about converting 12V to AC. Care to explain that?
Thanks

Sure;

My comment was more of a FYI safety note.

A battery charger converts 110V AC to 12V DC via a transformer.

Some Cheap/Chinese-made Battery Maintainers/Charges can produce AC conversely if/when connected to you car's battery, (12v In=AC Volts Out). If you leave this type of charger connected full time to the battery it can constantly produce AC(shock potential) and also run down your car's battery.

Most high quality professional batt chargers have self protection circuits(and/or diodes) that prevent this, (Look for ones that a self disconnect circuit and/or have reverse polarity protection)

Just disconnect the charger from the Car's battery when not in use and you'll be fine.

[1hprush]

Originally Posted by PinHead

Sure;

My comment was more of a FYI safety note.

A battery charger converts 110V AC to 12V DC via a transformer.

Some Cheap/Chinese-made Battery Maintainers/Charges can produce AC conversely if/when connected to you car's battery, (12v In=AC Volts Out). If you leave this type of charger connected full time to the battery it can constantly produce AC(shock potential) and also run down your car's battery.

Most high quality professional batt chargers have self protection circuits(and/or diodes) that prevent this, (Look for ones that a self disconnect circuit and/or have reverse polarity protection)

Just disconnect the charger from the Car's battery when not in use and you'll be fine.

Great Point! This is why it's prudent to invest in a reputable tender, I use Battery Tender Plus, however there are others that are reliable too.

Originally Posted by Glen e

The front charging posts get to the back battery, so it doesn't matter if only half the system is connected to it , the full charge is going to the battery. Perfectly acceptable to charge from the front.

I've been using this method now close to a month without issues. Recently was away for a week and unplugged the tender while I was gone, when I returned home, plugged it back in and within 10-15 mins. the battery was at a complete charge. Conversely, the first night I brought my car home from the dealer, it took an entire night and part of the morning to receive a full charge...this was rather concerning knowing that there was that amount of discharge from the battery, especially since the battery needs to keep up with all the electronics.
Connecting the tender to the post under the hood is a method I have used for years and use it on these vehicles and never had an issue. For me it just a simple plug and play feature.
Jeep Grand Cherokee/Dodge Durango R/T/Dodge Viper/C6 Lingenfelter Corvette.

[LtColumbo]

Remove the plastic cover that surrounds that + post and you will see many powered, unused threaded studs available.

[1hprush]

Originally Posted by LtColumbo

Remove the plastic cover that surrounds that + post and you will see many powered, unused threaded studs available.

Okay...you first!