[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by 0025_SS

I have a 2016 Camaro 2SS A8 with 37k miles.
List of mods are as follows:
Supercharged Magnuson TVS2300
TSP Headers 1 7/8 no cats, DEI heat wrapped
K&N Air Intake
LT4 Fuel Pumps, HPFP and LPFP
Snow Performance Methanol Injection Kit
ATI Super Dampner Crank Pulley
DSX 230mm Underdrive Pulley for the Blower
Borla Atak Axle Back
BMR Lowering Springs
Car makes around 600 wheel horses on 14lbs of boost and around 617 ft-lbs of torque.

A week before my pulls I arced the battery trying to jump start it using reverse polarity as a mistake when attaching the jumper wires. It was a quick touch and go when that happened. We then found out the starter has failed. Replaced it and she starts again.

Then, during the pulls my car suddenly won't throttle anymore but instead slowly the RPMs go down. I stopped near an exit to figure out what happened. My temperatures were higher than normal, I had no leaks, there I thought I overheated. The only check engine light I got was from a Cam Positioning Sensor and 02 Sensors which I get sometime an issue happens with the car. After a few attempts on starting, car turned over and died the same minute with a different idle. Then started again a couple more times.

I now got my car at the shop that built it, they replaced the positive terminal fuse, and charged the battery. Still we got nothing. They are about to replace the starter again and we will see if that is our problem.

If not, can anyone help me please? I am very frustrated at this time. The shop is recommending me to bring it to the dealer if the starter is not the issue.

Sounds like a Siezed engine, try turning it with a breaker bar and socket on the crank.

[Doc Oc]

If your car is starting, then dying, and your shop wants to replace the starter, find a new shop.

The fact that your temps were high and you were in the middle of a pull when it happened sounds very not good. Have you checked your oil for metal? Sounds like you spun a bearing.

[laynlo15]

I agree with Ted. A buddy of mine had this happen on the dyno, seized up two rod bearing. In the beginning we also thought the starter had gone bad. Put a breaker bar on it and sure as shit it was seized up. Just had 450 miles on it.

[Kerry]

Happend to me.

[KingLT1]

On 14 psi that thing should of been making 750+ whp with meth if the tune was right and the engine was healthy. I was making 600 on 8psi with drag radials. That being said I agree with Ted. Sounds like the engine seized up.

[laynlo15]

One more thing, if the motor was not to operating temp then if it did lock up with the new thin like water motor oil that may have been the reason. My buddies stuck 2 rods and thats my opinion on why his locked up on the dyno. Just not enough time on the roller to warm up the drive train. The tuner just didn't catch it in time as the car had been setting outside in the cold and just didn't have time to warm up and bam locked it up on the 2nd pull. He should have seen it on the first pull when the motor was laboring to make power, instead he thought it was in the tune but should have noticed if he'd looked closer at the log from the first pull. I knew it was the motor right off but no one would listen, just kept trying to start it and I told them to put a breaker bar on it and thats what finally happened. Two rods stuck, new motor on the way with just 450 miles on the original motor.

[Kerry]

You know I guess appels to oranges but we have a little turbo cruze with the 1.4. It gets no mercy. As soon as it starts its out the driveway with more than half throttle most of the time. So no real warm up time. 160 thousand and not a hickup,knock on wood. 5w30. I am not a fan of 0 weight oil. Cause thats what it is cold 0. I think 5w or may be more is better for what we ask of this motor. Im gonna try the 15w50 for a while,

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Kerry

You know I guess appels to oranges but we have a little turbo cruze with the 1.4. It gets no mercy. As soon as it starts its out the driveway with more than half throttle most of the time. So no real warm up time. 160 thousand and not a hickup,knock on wood. 5w30. I am not a fan of 0 weight oil. Cause thats what it is cold 0. I think 5w or may be more is better for what we ask of this motor. Im gonna try the 15w50 for a while,

Good to hear but its a lot different then pulling out of the driveway and going wide open throttle on a dyno thats putting lots of load on the motor. I wouldn't run 0 weight either so we agree on that.

[KingLT1]

one thing you have to keep in mind is that comparing Advertised oil weight is like comparing different size clothing from one brand to another. 15w50 mobil 1 is actually thinner then 5w50 castrol edge. Not saying that is good or bad. I ran 5w50 castrol edge in my H/C LS car and was happy with the results. I picked that oil based on the lab testing posted over at Bobtheoilguy forum. That oil was tested to work well with most OEM and aftermarket Hydraulic lifters without causing restriction and excessive pressure build up. You don't want 70psi at idle. All you need generally speaking is 25-30psi idle and a 10psi increase for every 1k rpm increase. If I was to deviate from the stock 5w30 recommendation, that is probably what I would move to in the event I tear into the engine and do a cam swap and change lifters.

[ctrlz]

I don't understand how the car can run "higher than normal temps" unless you change the thermostat or there is a problem with the cooling system. Given that you have major problems, I would not rule out contamination of the coolant with something hotter like blow-by gases or oil. Since car was not fully warmed, I would worry about exhaust gases.

The reverse-polarity jump... This can really mess with your electronics, as there is not going to be any protection in place on the car like there is on an advanced battery charger. So the reverse voltage can cause a diode to go open or short closed. You need to make sure your alternator is not putting out any AC. And that's just the tip of the iceberg.

[laynlo15]

I wish we could hear back for the original poster. Hope he chimes back in for an update as we are all just speculating.

[thescreensavers]

Running High load or WOT on a Cold Engine, Cold Trans and Cold Diff is abuse.

[0025_SS]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Sounds like a Siezed engine, try turning it with a breaker bar and socket on the crank.

He spun the crank and said compared to a ZL1 1LE in the shop, it spins a little harder. Also there is no metal shavings in the oil when checked. Spark plugs were fouled and changed already.

[0025_SS]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

I wish we could hear back for the original poster. Hope he chimes back in for an update as we are all just speculating.

More updates to follow. Sorry, got busy at work. I already told him about it being seized.