03-26-2014, 09:50 PM | #85 |
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Caliper Bolt Torque Values
I confirmed with my local dealer the torque settings for the TTY bolts that hold the caliper on. I've attached a scanned image of the print out they gave me. I've seen several different torque settings reported on the forum and wanted confirmation. Thought I would share my findings.
Front and Rear are the same: 30 lb ft + 90 degrees.
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05-11-2014, 08:23 PM | #86 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Aug 2006
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I'm looking to do this DIY, can someone clear up replies 67 through 71....pics would help greatly. Thanks
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05-11-2014, 09:50 PM | #87 | |
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Quote:
Re-read them. I edited my response because it was incorrect, from what I remember. It's been a while though.
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05-11-2014, 10:16 PM | #88 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Aug 2006
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Thanks
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05-12-2014, 09:53 AM | #89 |
No Pain No Gain
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I used the torque to yield, but the parts guy said you can get the same size bolt for the calipers that are not torque to yield.
Anyway a buddy of mine said I shouldn't have done it by myself using the minivac. He said because of the ABS I should have done it with someone and pump the air out. Any truth to this? I don't have abs lights on, but maybe when I really need the abs I'm going to have an issue?
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05-14-2014, 10:58 PM | #90 |
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010
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Is there some type of compound between the piston and the break pad? In the video that shows the brembo caliper it looks like a white caulking or something.
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05-21-2014, 12:25 PM | #91 |
Drives: 2016 2SS Camaro Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Miami, FL
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one the of 4 pistons was not pushing back in. It seems stuck at the half way point. Has anyone seen this?
Piston, stuck, break, pad, change |
05-21-2014, 05:21 PM | #92 |
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I do know the pistons must be pushed in at the same time. You can't just push one at a time.
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Dear Lord, give me the strength to carry on despite my Camaro addiction!
JRE iTSX tune, full cat-less Dynatech exhaust, CAI intake, Stillen Slotted/Drilled Rotors, RB braided brake lines, BMR lowering springs, (reserved for definite future MODS) |
05-23-2014, 08:58 AM | #93 |
Drives: 64vette,2010 2SS,2013 Zl1 Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: kanata,on,can.
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the screw on my rear rotor would not come out but I have a good hammer drill, put it on hammer only so the chuck doesn't turn and hammer the hell on that screw and then use the drill body as a screwdriver to unscrew the screw. worked great on mine.
I would also like to mention the price of those (cheap) brembo caliper bolts, at the GM dealer in Canada. they are $19.00 each. |
06-01-2014, 04:07 PM | #94 |
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Good DIY, just changed all 4 and these were the easiest pads I have ever changed.
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07-25-2014, 09:59 PM | #95 |
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Great job, OP.... Was a pretty easy job, even on my ZL1!
Took me about 30 minutes a wheel to install the ceramic high performance Hawk pads, but I also took time to thoroughly clean the wheel, caliper and wheel well. Besides that, it was the first time I've done a brake pad replacement and.... well, I'm pretty useless at this kind of job. ;-) If you have any clue what you are doing, it's a 15 minutes per wheel job. I went through the break in as recommended by Hawk and it seems to stop REALLY well. I don't notice any difference in stopping power. |
08-04-2014, 10:50 PM | #96 |
Drives: 2017 2SS A8 FIFTY/2014 Silverado LT Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bossier City, LA
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Great write up. I did my fronts but I have an issue. The t30 torx bolt holding the driver side rotor snapped. Half of it still in the hub. I was told by a couple people that all the bolt does is hold the rotor on while going down the assembly line. I got the caliper back on but it was a whole lot harder to do than the passenger side. Brakes work good. No shake or squealing. Is this ok? Neither of the dealerships in town had them and have never even ordered them. Am I good to go or should I order new ones? I saw the torque specs on this thread said 44 ft lbs for the front. It never got there. And this is the first time the rotors have been off the car.
Last edited by Evilkaneevel; 08-04-2014 at 10:51 PM. Reason: d |
08-06-2014, 12:17 PM | #97 |
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Yeah I believe the torque for that little bolt is inch pounds. I did the same thing you did but stopped short of snapping it off, luckily.
In theory I believe the lugs should be plenty enough pressure to keep the rotor steady, but I'm no expert. If it were my car I'd tap it out and put in a new one if I could. Or take it somewhere that could do it.
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Dear Lord, give me the strength to carry on despite my Camaro addiction!
JRE iTSX tune, full cat-less Dynatech exhaust, CAI intake, Stillen Slotted/Drilled Rotors, RB braided brake lines, BMR lowering springs, (reserved for definite future MODS) |
08-10-2014, 11:56 AM | #98 |
Drives: 64vette,2010 2SS,2013 Zl1 Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: kanata,on,can.
Posts: 89
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That little screw holding the rotors could never make any difference as keeping it strait or from wabbling As a matter of fact, the best way to make sure you won't have trouble removing them next time, don't put then back on once they are off
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