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Old 03-22-2018, 06:07 AM   #211
cab33
 
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How are the Raybestos ST-43 on the the rotor wear?

Do you guys run them on the street or swap them just for the track?

If you swap, what do you run on the street?
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Old 03-22-2018, 05:02 PM   #212
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Originally Posted by cab33 View Post
How are the Raybestos ST-43 on the the rotor wear?

Do you guys run them on the street or swap them just for the track?

If you swap, what do you run on the street?
On the track, they wear very both the pad and rotor very minimally. The rotors will heat-check crack before they'll get too thin. If you street them, they'll grind the rotors to oblivion.

I run PowerStop Z26's on the street and they're acceptable as such. You have to very thoroughly wash the rotors between pad swaps to ensure a good transfer layer while re-bedding.
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Old 03-23-2018, 06:25 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
On the track, they wear very both the pad and rotor very minimally. The rotors will heat-check crack before they'll get too thin. If you street them, they'll grind the rotors to oblivion.

I run PowerStop Z26's on the street and they're acceptable as such. You have to very thoroughly wash the rotors between pad swaps to ensure a good transfer layer while re-bedding.
This is what I heard back when I asked www.racebrakes.com about a compatible street pad for the ST-43.

Our Porterfield R4-S has done really well when swapping back and forth.
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:59 AM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
On the track, they wear very both the pad and rotor very minimally. The rotors will heat-check crack before they'll get too thin. If you street them, they'll grind the rotors to oblivion.

I run PowerStop Z26's on the street and they're acceptable as such. You have to very thoroughly wash the rotors between pad swaps to ensure a good transfer layer while re-bedding.
What technique do you use to get the old material off the rotor?

I used to use a fine-grit sandpaper, but was told that was bad.
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Old 03-30-2018, 06:53 AM   #215
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Anybody ever find the OEM parts number for the front and back brake pads?
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Old 03-30-2018, 08:11 AM   #216
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Anybody ever find the OEM parts number for the front and back brake pads?
SS 1LE:

Front: 25940447
Rear: 22847818
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:52 AM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
On the track, they wear very both the pad and rotor very minimally. The rotors will heat-check crack before they'll get too thin. If you street them, they'll grind the rotors to oblivion.

I run PowerStop Z26's on the street and they're acceptable as such. You have to very thoroughly wash the rotors between pad swaps to ensure a good transfer layer while re-bedding.
Ryephile, did you switch from the Track Day pads to ST-43 and how do they compare on track? I'm trying to decide what pads to use at COTA
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Old 03-30-2018, 11:33 AM   #218
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What technique do you use to get the old material off the rotor?

I used to use a fine-grit sandpaper, but was told that was bad.
A garden hose and then brake cleaner. When the rotors dry and become rusty, the transfer layer is gone.

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Ryephile, did you switch from the Track Day pads to ST-43 and how do they compare on track? I'm trying to decide what pads to use at COTA
For me, no hesitation, the ST-43 are the real deal. The Power Stop Track Day are perfectly fine for novice or intermediate pace, just like the stock Ferodo's. When you're pushing the car to its limit, the ST-43 are a solid option. You can read more in my Member build journal thread for more detail.
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Old 03-30-2018, 01:36 PM   #219
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Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
A garden hose and then brake cleaner. When the rotors dry and become rusty, the transfer layer is gone.



For me, no hesitation, the ST-43 are the real deal. The Power Stop Track Day are perfectly fine for novice or intermediate pace, just like the stock Ferodo's. When you're pushing the car to its limit, the ST-43 are a solid option. You can read more in my Member build journal thread for more detail.
Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:48 PM   #220
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A garden hose and then brake cleaner. When the rotors dry and become rusty, the transfer layer is gone.
Is this the same procedure you use when swapping between compounds on the same rotor?
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:34 PM   #221
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Is this the same procedure you use when swapping between compounds on the same rotor?
Is that rhetorical? What other time would you do it?

The simple answer is: Yes.
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Old 04-04-2018, 01:26 PM   #222
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A few weeks ago I ran some G-Loc R10's up front and R8's in the back at Chuckwalla, and it was perfect. Combined with Castrol SRF fluid I had 0 brake fade, I got some good pad transfer to the rotors, and the pads and rotors looked great afterwords. Highly recommended.
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:50 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
Is that rhetorical? What other time would you do it?

The simple answer is: Yes.
Any time you change pad manufacturer on the same rotor.

Carbotech, Hawk, Raybestos all have the same recommendation.

For example...
http://www.ctbrakes.com/faqs.asp#bedding5
If rotors were previously bedded using a different manufacturer’s brake pads; then it is strongly recommended that the used discs (rotors) be reconditioned/turned and meet minimum specification requirements.

I was just asking if you had discovered a different method of removing glazed pad material.
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Old 04-05-2018, 01:25 AM   #224
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If you run a track pad on the street, my experience is that in ˜100 miles the pad would have cleaned up the old pad material very efficiently. They go out and rebed the new pad just prior to the track event and you are all set.

I hear what all the manufacturers recommend, but really I never found that cleaning up the old pad material to be an issue.
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