[Hyperlinkblue]

also, the inner sides if the rear tire are wearing more? Is that normal, i had the alignment sheets from the dealer saying everything was in spec. Maybe because its for track use too??

[crankaholic]

I see you have the cradle lockout kit as well... I had to re-torque everything a few times before things settled, I also set my wrench about 5lbs over the spec - but I can't recommend that, although I do think torque specs designed for rubber will behave differently when you remove said rubber and replace it with metal. The mechanic I go to does a lot of suspension mods (for Jeeps mostly, but they do sports cars as well), he said it's normal for these types of parts to require a re-torque a couple of times after install.

As for tire wear, that's all up to your alignment settings. If you have aftermarket wheels with a more aggressive offset, it will affect your alignment and you'll need to have it adjusted... basically after installing any new wheel/suspension part you need an alignment, that's why people tend to do these things in batches instead of individual parts. I don't have any issues with tire wear - I run alignment values that are between GM recommended street and track settings.

I did have squeaks after putting a few miles on the new parts, but they went away with lube (which is necessary for metal-on-metal joints no matter how you design them) and re-torquing cradle lockout/chassis braces.

[Hyperlinkblue]

Originally Posted by crankaholic

I see you have the cradle lockout kit as well... I had to re-torque everything a few times before things settled, I also set my wrench about 5lbs over the spec - but I can't recommend that, although I do think torque specs designed for rubber will behave differently when you remove said rubber and replace it with metal. The mechanic I go to does a lot of suspension mods (for Jeeps mostly, but they do sports cars as well), he said it's normal for these types of parts to require a re-torque a couple of times after install.

As for tire wear, that's all up to your alignment settings. If you have aftermarket wheels with a more aggressive offset, it will affect your alignment and you'll need to have it adjusted... basically after installing any new wheel/suspension part you need an alignment, that's why people tend to do these things in batches instead of individual parts. I don't have any issues with tire wear - I run alignment values that are between GM recommended street and track settings.

I did have squeaks after putting a few miles on the new parts, but they went away with lube (which is necessary for metal-on-metal joints no matter how you design them) and re-torquing cradle lockout/chassis braces.

I did everything at once, drove it for 200 miles and had the dealership re align the car front and back. Ive put about 1500 miles in it since, and the inner tire has more wear on it than the outside. Almost like theres to much negative camber.

[bybcous]

Im getting a funny noise when driving slow and parking on the passenger side of car. Wife said it sounds terrible, gonna clean and lube all parts this weekend.

[Hyperlinkblue]

I have now corrected the issue, it was the parking brake cables and there isolators, theres a spot on the frame where a piece of 1/16th inch steel is bent around the isolator to hold the cables in places and when you move the suspension up and down it would cause these to sqeak. I lubed then and all is good now. Just follow the parking brake cables, you cant miss it!

[bybcous]

Originally Posted by Hyperlinkblue

I have now corrected the issue, it was the parking brake cables and there isolators, theres a spot on the frame where a piece of 1/16th inch steel is bent around the isolator to hold the cables in places and when you move the suspension up and down it would cause these to sqeak. I lubed then and all is good now. Just follow the parking brake cables, you cant miss it!

If you have a pic of where to look on what part of car i would appreciate it.

[Hyperlinkblue]

Originally Posted by bybcous

If you have a pic of where to look on what part of car i would appreciate it.

Ok, i will this week sometime when i get under the car. The squeak came back so im going to relube it with a light coat if grease this time and possibly trim it. Im also going to re torque the rear cradle.

[SC88]

Found this thread in the search for a solution after tracking down the squeaking I developed in the rear of my car. Is the lube a effective fix and how long can I expect it to last? My car gets driven rain or shine but no winters so I am debating if I should try this route or look for a different setup.

[GreenZLE]

I replaced all the suspension on my 2020 ZL1 with BMR components in 2020. I periodically lubed them with a spray that cased the Teflon liner in the heim ends to swell. Petroleum based FYI. They squeaked so bad it was embarrassing to drive.

Purchased all new joints from BMR but this time I bought rubber joint covers AND the pliers to install them with from Summit Racing. You HAVE TO buy the pliers or you will hate life. Also got a new grease gun and a tube of Super Lube silicone grease from Summit Racing. Installed the new joints and boots, used the needle adapter to lube the joints, had it re-aligned, no squeak whatsoever.

If you put a lot of street miles on the car with these rod ends, they need boots. My ZLE has nearly 28K on it BTW.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by GreenZLE

I replaced all the suspension on my 2020 ZL1 with BMR components in 2020. I periodically lubed them with a spray that cased the Teflon liner in the heim ends to swell. Petroleum based FYI. They squeaked so bad it was embarrassing to drive.

Purchased all new joints from BMR but this time I bought rubber joint covers AND the pliers to install them with from Summit Racing. You HAVE TO buy the pliers or you will hate life. Also got a new grease gun and a tube of Super Lube silicone grease from Summit Racing. Installed the new joints and boots, used the needle adapter to lube the joints, had it re-aligned, no squeak whatsoever.

If you put a lot of street miles on the car with these rod ends, they need boots. My ZLE has nearly 28K on it BTW.

I’m about to install toe rods too. Can you post links to what you recommend? Would be extremely helpful.

Thanks in advance!

[GreenZLE]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

I’m about to install toe rods too. Can you post links to what you recommend? Would be extremely helpful.

Thanks in advance!

If you go to an online auto parts store, type in:
UMI Performance Super Lube Grease 3008


"Seals it" makes the pliers and boots. For some dumb reason, my Summit order history no longer has these listed. I got the part number for the boots from BMR. The pliers are listed as "frequently bought together" when looking at the boots.

[Dabjbr]

Thanks Green!

I’ll take a look and find the right seal that fits. I’m actually using them on SPL toe rods so they should be identical or possibly slightly smaller.

I’ll reach out to SPL to see if they have a recommendation.

Thanks for the direction!

[SC88]

Originally Posted by GreenZLE

If you go to an online auto parts store, type in:
UMI Performance Super Lube Grease 3008


"Seals it" makes the pliers and boots. For some dumb reason, my Summit order history no longer has these listed. I got the part number for the boots from BMR. The pliers are listed as "frequently bought together" when looking at the boots.

Do you remember what size you ordered? I emailed BMR to see if they would tell me the sizes of them so I could order them. After looking at some installed pictures of them I am confident that this will fix the squeaking.

[radz28]

+1 on the Summit boot part numbers, too, please.