[M12LRV]

[dpevans]

Also being the owner of an all aluminum NorthStar there are interesting articles on WOT once the engine is broke in.

[Ryephile]

These guys are absolute ignorant morons. They epitomize "if it's on the internet it must be true" flawlessly.

[Cornholio]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

These guys are absolute ignorant morons. They epitomize "if it's on the internet it must be true" flawlessly.

That's your (completely obnoxious) opinion. I happen to agree with all points in the video. There are many different theories on how to break in a car. I like to follow the manufacturers recommendations. Others like to break it in hard. To each his own. But to dismiss everyone else's opinion in such an eloquent fashion like you did shows your complete ignorance that there are different views than yours.

[Corner carver]

Originally Posted by Cornholio

That's your (completely obnoxious) opinion. I happen to agree with all points in the video. There are many different theories on how to break in a car. I like to follow the manufacturers recommendations. Others like to break it in hard. To each his own. But to dismiss everyone else's opinion in such an eloquent fashion like you did shows your complete ignorance that there are different views than yours.

Also agree with the video, and your other points
This is how i broke in my new car and it's a total fire cracker

[born-to-fish-]

Originally Posted by Cornholio

That's your (completely obnoxious) opinion. I happen to agree with all points in the video. There are many different theories on how to break in a car. I like to follow the manufacturers recommendations. Others like to break it in hard. To each his own. But to dismiss everyone else's opinion in such an eloquent fashion like you did shows your complete ignorance that there are different views than yours.

Just another wannabe camaro owner..... Stick to your Fiesta, it looks good on you

[AndyUK]

Originally Posted by Cornholio

That's your (completely obnoxious) opinion. I happen to agree with all points in the video. There are many different theories on how to break in a car. I like to follow the manufacturers recommendations. Others like to break it in hard. To each his own. But to dismiss everyone else's opinion in such an eloquent fashion like you did shows your complete ignorance that there are different views than yours.

The GM recomendation for breaking in an LT1 IS to floor it, to 4k rpm let off back to idle and repeat several times

[nbryant]

Originally Posted by AndyUK

The GM recomendation for breaking in an LT1 IS to floor it, to 4k rpm let off back to idle and repeat several times

Really?

Owners manual, page 207, first of 5 recommendations:

"Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops."


Not sure what you were reading.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by Cornholio

That's your (completely obnoxious) opinion. I happen to agree with all points in the video. There are many different theories on how to break in a car. I like to follow the manufacturers recommendations. Others like to break it in hard. To each his own. But to dismiss everyone else's opinion in such an eloquent fashion like you did shows your complete ignorance that there are different views than yours.

There are theories based on logical fallacies, and then there are scientific conclusions based on soundly collected data. The video trumpets the prior. You getting emotional about it shows you prefer dogma over data.

Originally Posted by Corner carver

Also agree with the video, and your other points
This is how i broke in my new car and it's a total fire cracker

This kind of anecdotal evidence is part of the problem. Unless you've done several break-in styles and then did measurements on which was most effective, your engine running well could've just as well been a result of dumb luck.


...and born-to-fish trying to use my current DD as some sort of evidence that I'm wrong is quite amusing. I challenge all of you to try out your thinking cap instead of grabbing pitchforks.

[nbryant]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

There are theories based on logical fallacies, and then there are scientific conclusions based on soundly collected data. The video trumpets the prior. You getting emotional about it shows you prefer dogma over data.



This kind of anecdotal evidence is part of the problem. Unless you've done several break-in styles and then did measurements on which was most effective, your engine running well could've just as well been a result of dumb luck.


...and born-to-fish trying to use my current DD as some sort of evidence that I'm wrong is quite amusing. I challenge all of you to try out your thinking cap instead of grabbing pitchforks.

Were you not the one that called them "Absolute Ignorant Morons"?

[hotlap]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

There are theories based on logical fallacies, and then there are scientific conclusions based on soundly collected data. The video trumpets the prior. You getting emotional about it shows you prefer dogma over data.

This kind of anecdotal evidence is part of the problem. Unless you've done several break-in styles and then did measurements on which was most effective, your engine running well could've just as well been a result of dumb luck.

...and born-to-fish trying to use my current DD as some sort of evidence that I'm wrong is quite amusing. I challenge all of you to try out your thinking cap instead of grabbing pitchforks.

Wouldn't it be fair to assume the manufactures have test several break-in styles and then did measurements? Result being the break-in procedure published in the manual.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by hotlap

Wouldn't it be fair to assume the manufactures have test several break-in styles and then did measurements? Result being the break-in procedure published in the manual.

Not really. The manual is going to be phrased to keep the OEM out of court. Optimum break-in for the average owner is a very distant 2nd.

[hotlap]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Not really. The manual is going to be phrased to keep the OEM out of court. Optimum break-in for the average owner is a very distant 2nd.

How does breaking in the engine in a less than optimal way "keep the OEM out of court".

[Donner]

Hello, I posted the following statement in another thread about "Who's doing a hard break in?" That one, like this was addressing a similar issue. There are plenty of folks that have their own minds made up and for you, have at it. To anyone that actually is concerned about whether the manufacture is correct, here's my take.

Hello,

If I might offer some insight into breaking in the motor. There is the school of thrash it and trash it and I subscribe to that belief. The issue with rushing the breaking in of the motor components is that no seat of the pants measurement will be able to show one what was lost by not doing right by the engine and the advice of the engineering professionals that designed the motor.

To spare the readers a long discourse, consider just the piston and rings. The cylinder that the pistons ride inside of are nearly circular cylinders but they are made by tools that leave a slightly abrasive uneven surface and cutting marks through a process known as honing.

The rings sliding up and down within the cylinder’s walls will eventually polish these minor ridges away and create an optimal interface if properly broken in, or something less than that if the process is rushed or the motor is abused prematurely. The pistons themselves contain ringlands (grooves that are machined or cast to create circular trenches) but they are not circular. That is because the piston isn’t exactly a circle either. Its proper shape, when cold, is elliptical when viewed from above (looking down) and conical when viewed from the side. The top of the pistons are truncated cones replete with whatever shaping that the valve relief was designed to create.

The reason that the pistons are not full circles when cold is because of expansion. Metals grow in proportion to temperature in an “inches per inch” relation. There is more metal (solid in fact) at the top of the piston (the dome) and a complete hole at the bottom extending upwards. Since the top is solid, it grows more in relative diameter than does the bottom of the skirt but once up to temperature, it will become a circular cylinder as well.

Now consider that the wrist pin has protrusions on the internal walls of the piston’s insides. The piston will be narrower by the holes of the wrist pin and wider along the transverse axis. Because of the extra metal needed to support the wrist pins, the piston will expand further in that direction and again, become circular once it is heated up. Why this matters is that the rings are not fully supported in the ringland until the engine is at operational temperature.

As the pistons cycle up and down, the flexibility of the rings cause them to wave in relation. Rings do not remain flat because until the motor is broken in they are being jolted about by the honing marks. Since they do wave, the tips at the upper and bottom edges of the rings can get chipped or gouged if the engine is pushed too hard before the full sealing and polishing has occurred.

What this will mean in the long run, is that the rings will not hold the most pressure possible thus the engine loses compression (admittedly it’s a very slight difference at first and will degrade more rapidly than a properly broken in motor would over time). Those chips create little wedges that can allow more pressure to bypass the interface so maximum compression suffers.

Why altering the range of RPM and the load is important is because those wavering rings get the best chance to polish the surface rather than wear in ruts. It’s better for the rings and the cylinder walls to limit the power early on.

Bottom line: If a better service life and greater performance matters to you, follow the break in advice given by the engineers.

Kindest,

Donner