QUESTION Which tuner has the most 11 second cars

[Pro Stock John]

Choco what do you run?

I've had a lot of LS cars over the years, and the tune is always extremely important, makes or breaks a combo.

[ChocoTaco369]

I haven't even bothered to run this car at the track. I can tell you that on my old LS1 Firebird, the gears made more of a difference at the tracks than the lid, FTRA, headers, dynotune, aluminum driveshaft, shift kit and ported throttle body combined.

It doesn't take any power adders to make a Gen 5 into an 11 second car. You can do it with gears, tires, a stall converter and maybe some basic bolt-ons with a run of the mill dynotune. LS3 cars don't respond to a dynotune like LS1 cars do, either. There isn't much left on the table with the stock LS3 tune compared to LS-series motors in the past. What kind of variance do you really expect to pick up on an intake/exhaust LS3/L99 car with a run-of-the-mill dynotune vs the world's best dynotune? Seriously? 5-10rwhp? On a 4,000 pound car that isn't going to make a difference.

If you start messing with internals or FI, the tune starts to matter. On a stock motor, the way you go fast in the quarter is with wheels/tires, gears and a stall converter. And some suspension work if necessary. Don't forget to bring your Driver Mod. There are plenty of stock cars on this site walking full bolt-ons cars down the 1/4 mile track that forgot their driver mod. How many times do you see people with better ET's running less MPH? I see it all the time.

[Rhino79]

5-10 hp could be the difference in 11.99 and 12.01.

[ChocoTaco369]

Originally Posted by Rhino79

5-10 hp could be the difference in 11.99 and 12.01.

You're absolutely right. A good tuner is a great place to end, but not the best place to start. That's my only point. When the wheels and tires are bought, gears are done, stall is in, bolt-ons are on and internal work or FI is taking up some serious space in your brain, go find yourself a good tuner.

When the OP is sitting at 12.01, then he can argue dynotunes. I'm assuming he's in the 13's. That photo of his signature of his car with the heavy cast wheels and tires shows he has a lot of room to grow. Get some wheels and tires first. I currently have a wheel/tire package in the mail that saves 47.7 lbs of rotational weight. I gotta get these heavy shoes and socks off

[Baltimorejohn1]

Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369

You're absolutely right. A good tuner is a great place to end, but not the best place to start. That's my only point. When the wheels and tires are bought, gears are done, stall is in, bolt-ons are on and internal work or FI is taking up some serious space in your brain, go find yourself a good tuner.

When the OP is sitting at 12.01, then he can argue dynotunes. I'm assuming he's in the 13's. That photo of his signature of his car with the heavy cast wheels and tires shows he has a lot of room to grow. Get some wheels and tires first. I currently have a wheel/tire package in the mail that saves 47.7 lbs of rotational weight. I gotta get these heavy shoes and socks off

Ain't nobody talking about no dyno tune get over yourself I've been racing since the 70's
I wasn't asking your advice nor needed it
I was just asking guys if they wanted to share who their tuner was and what got them over the hump

Why some of you can't stay on topic geez
So did you do your own tune or who and what got you over the hump
Other than that drink a beer and cool out
This is a share thread not a dread thread lol

[Camarojt]

Choco, I agree somewhat with what you are saying. The benefits of wheels, tires, gears, and weight drop far outweighs a tune alone.
But, those mods by themselves and a basic tune will not just walk you into the 11's. If that's all it took there would be 30-40 11 sec bolt on only cars. If you look at the Fast list you see that it's not quite so simple. A quality tuner that can work seamlessly with the driver and see data logs can more effectively shave time off your ET.
Assuming conditions allow it and you can drive.
Like Jaime said, if conditions are great, these cars are easy to drive. But when conditions suck is when driving ability helps.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Baltimorejohn1

Just had a thought about which tuner
Then which equipment
I know it says whether you have headers or what not but from which manufacturer?

I have tuned many cars in all categories 12, 11, 10, 9, and 8 second classes just have to look through the list but many of the guys listed don't always mention who tuned it mostly just a short mod list.

Not everyone drag races or posts they're times

Most of the Cars I have tuned around the world are Remote tuned via the SCT X3, iTSX, Livewire, and now the X4

I have tuned over 2200 Gen5 Camaro with SCT.

I also use HPtuners, Diablo and EFI live which are not counted in that number.

It is impossible to keep track of everyone LOL

I would be happy to discuss your goals in a Low ET and I can help you get there in short order.

I have been building Drag cars for over 28 years professionally and longer before that.

Ted.

[Pro Stock John]

Choco, respectfully, I don't agree with you about 4th gens. To say that gears made a bigger difference than all the other mods combined is something I would not agree with at all. For reference, I co-founded and owned LS1Tech and I personally owned 5 4th gens. I have been going to the track 20-30 times a year for the last 16 years.

In 1999 I went 11.7 heads/cam/converter/3.70s etc., 10.9 on 150 shot. In 2008 I went 10.9@123 on motor stock cubes (10.00@134 150 shot). If you asked me in 1999 whether I thought 10.9 was possible I would have laughed. Heck my local buddy has a stock bottom end 4th with 4L60E and he goes 10.5's. Even more amazing.

If I were doing a bolton A4 4th gen, I would do gears LAST. Why? Because they can get light in a hurry. With some models you are starting off with a car that is 3400 w/o driver (Camaro is the lightest).

Remember, C6's fly with stock gears, which are.... 2.56 and 2.73s for the Z51. Why... Because they are super light. They don't "need" gear. Sure a 3.15 or more gear would help some, but they don't need gears to go 11.2 and quicker with bolt-ons.

The 5th gen is different, quite different. Stock my car (1SS/RS) was around 4000. 600 lb difference stock. It was really never in my head to ever do gears with this car. But I had to really think about this and watch vids of my car and other friend's car makes passes... And look at the slips.

It is not easy at all to go 11's stock internal with a 5th gen. If it was that easy there would be a ton of us.

Trans tuning is a big deal with the 5th gen. The rest of the tuning is IMO similar to 4th gens.

If I had time and strong desire to push it, I could go 11.6's stock internal, I know what changes I would make. And I would need my tuner, Ryan, to work with me.

Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369

I haven't even bothered to run this car at the track. I can tell you that on my old LS1 Firebird, the gears made more of a difference at the tracks than the lid, FTRA, headers, dynotune, aluminum driveshaft, shift kit and ported throttle body combined.

It doesn't take any power adders to make a Gen 5 into an 11 second car. You can do it with gears, tires, a stall converter and maybe some basic bolt-ons with a run of the mill dynotune. LS3 cars don't respond to a dynotune like LS1 cars do, either. There isn't much left on the table with the stock LS3 tune compared to LS-series motors in the past. What kind of variance do you really expect to pick up on an intake/exhaust LS3/L99 car with a run-of-the-mill dynotune vs the world's best dynotune? Seriously? 5-10rwhp? On a 4,000 pound car that isn't going to make a difference.

If you start messing with internals or FI, the tune starts to matter. On a stock motor, the way you go fast in the quarter is with wheels/tires, gears and a stall converter. And some suspension work if necessary. Don't forget to bring your Driver Mod. There are plenty of stock cars on this site walking full bolt-ons cars down the 1/4 mile track that forgot their driver mod. How many times do you see people with better ET's running less MPH? I see it all the time.

[ChocoTaco369]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Choco, respectfully, I don't agree with you about 4th gens. To say that gears made a bigger difference than all the other mods combined is something I would not agree with at all. For reference, I co-founded and owned LS1Tech and I personally owned 5 4th gens. I have been going to the track 20-30 times a year for the last 16 years.

Oh, I know who PSJ is. I was there for years

I'm telling you my experience at the track. Going from bone stock to full bolt-ons made a big difference in MPH. I went from 106 MPH to 111 MPH by going from lid/catback to full bolt-ons with a tune. However, going from 2.73's to 3.42's made a bigger difference in ET's than all those things combined.

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

In 1999 I went 11.7 heads/cam/converter/3.70s etc., 10.9 on 150 shot. In 2008 I went 10.9@123 on motor stock cubes (10.00@134 150 shot). If you asked me in 1999 whether I thought 10.9 was possible I would have laughed. Heck my local buddy has a stock bottom end 4th with 4L60E and he goes 10.5's. Even more amazing.

If I were doing a bolton A4 4th gen, I would do gears LAST. Why? Because they can get light in a hurry. With some models you are starting off with a car that is 3400 w/o driver (Camaro is the lightest).

The 5th gen is different, quite different. Stock my car (1SS/RS) was around 4000. 600 lb difference stock. It was really never in my head to ever do gears with this car. But I had to really think about this and watch vids of my car and other friend's car makes passes... And look at the slips.

It is not easy at all to go 11's stock internal with a 5th gen. If it was that easy there would be a ton of us.

Trans tuning is a big deal with the 5th gen. The rest of the tuning is IMO similar to 4th gens.

If I had time and strong desire to push it, I could go 11.6's stock internal, I know what changes I would make. And I would need my tuner, Ryan, to work with me.

I think you've totally missed my point. You just described to me a vehicle with massive amounts of work done. Of course, then, a great tuner makes a lot of difference. There is so much altered with the vehicle you described we would be talking about a 40+rwhp difference between a mail-order tune and a meticulously prepared dynotune, let alone the area UNDER the curve where a meticulous tune shows the most results. You can have two tunes that show similar peaks with massive changes in under-the-curve power and torque - that's where street tuning and dynotuning come into play.

But I am speaking for the OP, here. As near as I can figure, the OP's car is bone stock. There are so many things the OP needs to worry about before they start investing time in some meticulous tune - and so many things they can do to make massive changes to ET's without even messing with their warranty. Wheels, tires, 3.91 gears (which are appropriate for M6's and A6's in 5th gens) and a CIA will make massive changes to how the car runs without touching a thing that'll set off a CEL or affect your warranty. All these things can easily amount to a 0.75 second reduction. And even after all this, a tune isn't advisable because there isn't much to throw off the stock tune, which is fairly strong in these cars. I wouldn't even consider a dynotune until at LEAST headers are done, and with a headers-only car, there isn't going to be much left on the table from tuner to tuner. Yea, if you are running a 12.07, you can get into the 11's by a more aggressive tune I bet. But how much time and money are you really willing to invest for that miniscule change? I'd spend it elsewhere and go balls to the wall on the tune when the mods have accumulated. 90% of the people on this site are never going to mod these cars past headers anyway.

It's order of operations I'm arguing. If the OP is in the DC area, I'd tell him to go see Fran at Race Proven Motorsports in Delaware. He's a sponsor and he's not that far of a drive from him. Maybe 2 hours. Astoundingly excellent shop, been there many times. I got my 4th gen tuned there and got my 5th gen baseline dynoed there. But prioritize. Do it when it's the right time.

[Camarojt]

ChacoTaco, what you are missing is 1 key thing...you have ZERO experience racing a 5TH GEN Camaro as you said yourself you have never even ran your car. So for you to make all these comments about what all it takes to run 11's in these cars is kinda pointless. Like I said earlier some of what you are saying is true and some is kinda hit and miss. It's almost as if you are jaded from a tuner relationship gone bad how you are trying to minimize the importance of a great tune??
All I know is that 11's in a bolt on only Gen 5 will require more than a run of the mill tune. And to the tuners that have done it, they too deserve props!

I can speak frankly on this subject by I have done almost anything you can do to these cars to run as fast as possible in this particular class! It took lots of patience, trial and error and a great working relationship with my tuners.

You can gladly prove us wrong with ur run of the mill tune, bolt ins, oh and an 11sec time slip. I'll be the 1st to congratulate you.

[ChocoTaco369]

Originally Posted by Camarojt

ChacoTaco, what you are missing is 1 key thing...you have ZERO experience racing a 5TH GEN Camaro as you said yourself you have never even ran your car. So for you to make all these comments about what all it takes to run 11's in these cars is kinda pointless. Like I said earlier some of what you are saying is true and some is kinda hit and miss. It's almost as if you are jaded from a tuner relationship gone bad how you are trying to minimize the importance of a great tune??
All I know is that 11's in a bolt on only Gen 5 will require more than a run of the mill tune. And to the tuners that have done it, they too deserve props!

I can speak frankly on this subject by I have done almost anything you can do to these cars to run as fast as possible in this particular class! It took lots of patience, trial and error and a great working relationship with my tuners.

You can gladly prove us wrong with ur run of the mill tune, bolt ins, oh and an 11sec time slip. I'll be the 1st to congratulate you.

I'm guessing you haven't driven a new 2015 Z06. Do you think it'll beat a bone stock SS in a race? If you say yes, should I just dismiss your assertion because you've never driven one or raced one? Or can we just assume the obvious?

Truths are truths. A tuner isn't breaking a bone stock SS into the 11's. That takes thousands of dollars and multiple modifications. Get the basics covered. It's going to take months or maybe years before the OP will need to squeeze out every last rwhp with an aggressive tune. Whether or not I've chosen to race my 5th gen is irrelevant. I've raced cars in the past, and the same logic holds. Your logic, however, is nonexistent because it is a logical fallacy. Whether or not I've viewed Earth from the surface of the moon doesn't change whether or not the Earth is blue from the surface of the moon. I don't need to be standing on the moon to know that much. Thanks. And as I said before, when the time is right in the distant future, Fran at Race Proven Motorsports in Delaware is a pretty good bet, and semi-local. He just got a brand new AWD-capable Dynojet. Sweet.

[bhillakaiceberg]

Not at all easy to go 11's Stock internal in a 5th Gen. Just like most folks have said, if that was the case many many many 5th gens would be running 11's stock internal. With an L99 Auto, the shift points are key. The stock factory tune leaves a lot on the table and I think pretty conservative. Even if you add a stall, gears, and tires, a spot on tune will make that combo shine. Stall and gears without a tune is a waste and I guarantee you won't be seeing any 11's.

[ChocoTaco369]

Originally Posted by bhillakaiceberg

Not at all easy to go 11's Stock internal in a 5th Gen. Just like most folks have said, if that was the case many many many 5th gens would be running 11's stock internal. With an L99 Auto, the shift points are key. The stock factory tune leaves a lot on the table and I think pretty conservative. Even if you add a stall, gears, and tires, a spot on tune will make that combo shine. Stall and gears without a tune is a waste and I guarantee you won't be seeing any 11's.

Uh huh. And tell me which will make a bigger difference:

Lightweight wheels, DR's, a stall, CAI, 3.91 gears, a crank pulley and a ported throttle body?

Or headers and a tune?

I didn't say a tune isn't a worthwhile mod. I said it's not worth considering while your car is stock, or close to stock. You said these cars are difficult to get into the 11's with stock internals. Sounds like you agree with me - don't bother tuning until you have a hefty load of mods and you're tearing into the motor or going FI.

Tunes are the finisher, not the opener.

[Baltimorejohn1]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I have tuned many cars in all categories 12, 11, 10, 9, and 8 second classes just have to look through the list but many of the guys listed don't always mention who tuned it mostly just a short mod list.

Not everyone drag races or posts they're times

Most of the Cars I have tuned around the world are Remote tuned via the SCT X3, iTSX, Livewire, and now the X4

I have tuned over 2200 Gen5 Camaro with SCT.

I also use HPtuners, Diablo and EFI live which are not counted in that number.

It is impossible to keep track of everyone LOL

I would be happy to discuss your goals in a Low ET and I can help you get there in short order.

I have been building Drag cars for over 28 years professionally and longer before that.

Ted.

Nice.....
I was just up there in Boston and Portsmouth for a week on business
It would've been cool to stop by your place but they had us busy and I flew in anyway
I have to come up there because my boy lives in Connecticut so I have to visit