1LE for Autocross

[Novie LE]

Originally Posted by tw78911sc

If you drive say 200 miles to/from and event, with a lot of camber on a R set of tires, you'll cord the insides of the tires really quick. If I lived 5 or 10 miles away, I'd change them in the garage and drive them there. Camber is what will kill tires if you are driving around town, that and the R tires can pick up manhole covers and you can flat them out really easy in town.

Camber will not kill tires if you correct toe setting. If you are running -3 degrees of camber with 0 toe it will be decent. Add any toe in/out and those tires will be gone in no time.

[So Cal Camaro]

I get you already made up your mind, but to clarify the tire comparison.

The guy drove both cars on the same autocross course, 3 autocross laps back to back with each set of tires on the car, tire sizes were the same on both cars, both were similarly equipped high dollar Pro Touring cars built by same builder. There were no variables like temp or course condition changes, it all happened in real time, all laps went back to back as fast as the tires were swapped. The car running the Michelin's clocked faster times on all the laps completed, by a least a second....

[So Cal Camaro]

Originally Posted by HRD_WRK

Thanks.
no -my mind is not made up until I get the wheels.
I am interested in hearing more of your findings.
has this been printed or can I get access to the source crew for further inquiry?

By 3 back to back?
was the car already fully up to temps.
there would need to be three sets of wheels. The first to get all the car to temps, then come in and start test sets.
was the tire sets both exact same sizes and same wheels
please define run order and # of times.
mpss 3 laps
BFG 3 laps
etc
It would need multiple consecutive tire swaps as the car got hotter.
ideally this should be repeated on different cars with multiple sets and would take alot of work.
How long each lap generally time wise? Provide a some insite on tire warm up.
Only one on the track running.
I could go on, even though im not a tester.


I do respect your input , but even adding driver input changes into the mix as a major variable -id need to see a better study. These may be out there and agree with you.
ill try to do some more investigating two.
Let me know if you also see more data.

Sincere thanks.

Sorry, I have provided the amount of detail I can, as people involved would never comment on this due to not wanting to affect future sponsorship with any company...This wasn't a formal test, but I will say that in the years I have been around this stuff, BF Goodrich is far better at hype than they are delivering tires that perform...Good luck with whatever you choose to buy...

[So Cal Camaro]

Originally Posted by HRD_WRK

So im having another brainy idea ( dont tell my wheel guy he'll beat me).

Are there no comparable slicks to the Hoosier A6 that come in 20"?

If A6 and R6 max out at 19", I may consider:

Changing rims to 19" (could change style-it wasn't offered in but 19s) with same width if possible.
BFG would be out-they dont have 19".
Run MPSS:
285/35/zr19 front
305/30/zr19 rear (next size up is 325)

Id be dropping rear diameter from 28.7 for 20s to 26.3 for 19s, about 3/4 inch drop and gap added. I think my biggest issue would be gear-it would push me to use third more often.

This way if I get into autox more and gain skill, I could move into the Hoosier A6 in 19s. I still need to verify A6 fits on the same rims.

Thoughts?

I have run 19's with as small a diameter as you are proposing. It's great for the track, as the lowered stance helps it drive like a slot car. You do run out of gear more easily, so shifting into 3rd would happen depending on how fast a course.

I like running the 20's with a 28.1" diameter, as 2nd gear throughout most tracks rather than the 19's. If I thought I would like to run 18's, would run the Falken Azeni's in 200TW.

[jksynergy]

Question for those running in F Street (stock) with the 1LE. Anyone know if I could use the SLP Blackwing elbow in the air intake vs. the horrible factory elbow from air box to tb? Like to do something as my new Roto-Fab setup will just sit on the work bench instead of on the car this year. Thanks.

[hcsi99]

That would move you in to STU

[jksynergy]

Originally Posted by hcsi99

That would move you in to STU

Thank you. Doesn't seem to make much sense, though I know you can change the filter. Appreciate the reply.

[hcsi99]

You need to choose your mods wisely otherwise you can get put in a class that will be hard to be competitive in. There is a draft of the 2014 rules on the SCCA web page. There are more modifications this year for the steet classes but you are limited to a filter swap with the stock air box to stay in street.
If you want to bump up to STU you would be better off with a CAI, headers with high flow cats, maybe a larger exhaust, and a tune.

[Cuda7050]

Originally Posted by jksynergy

Question for those running in F Street (stock) with the 1LE. Anyone know if I could use the SLP Blackwing elbow in the air intake vs. the horrible factory elbow from air box to tb? Like to do something as my new Roto-Fab setup will just sit on the work bench instead of on the car this year. Thanks.

I just put my stock air box on the day before I go to the autocross so I can still qualify for the FS class. It only takes 15 minutes to change and has minimal effect on autocross performance.

[SVThis]

OK here are the facts. I plan on running F street this year and I am pondering what alignment specs to use. The car is bone stock and will be running the OE Goodyears at least until they are worn out. I've seen all the alignment charts on the forum and they are all over the spectrum. Does anyone on here have suggested specs for autocross alignment vs a track alignment? I will be running zero toe on the front.

[hcsi99]

Originally Posted by SVThis

OK here are the facts. I plan on running F street this year and I am pondering what alignment specs to use. The car is bone stock and will be running the OE Goodyears at least until they are worn out. I've seen all the alignment charts on the forum and they are all over the spectrum. Does anyone on here have suggested specs for autocross alignment vs a track alignment? I will be running zero toe on the front.

I was wondering the same thing.

[jksynergy]

Originally Posted by SVThis

OK here are the facts. I plan on running F street this year and I am pondering what alignment specs to use. The car is bone stock and will be running the OE Goodyears at least until they are worn out. I've seen all the alignment charts on the forum and they are all over the spectrum. Does anyone on here have suggested specs for autocross alignment vs a track alignment? I will be running zero toe on the front.

I printed off both Pedders and Pfadts recommendations. Gonna try one or the other first and maybe change over and see if any thing feels different or wear different. Doesn't hurt to try either one I'm sure.

[j-rho]

Originally Posted by NJ Drive

Ha, no. Completely different class and cars, hence the apples to oranges comparo.

Just wanted to point out that there is a lot of trial-and-error when it comes to finding an optimal setup and that big street tires on not-so-wide wheels isn't usually the fastest.

Z2s I was referring to are Dunlops- not relevant to Camaros but a big player elsewhere in Street/Street Touring classes.

David - have you had the change to run any events in the car yet? Curious how it's been working, if anybody's run one against some real competition, how the diff works, that sort of stuff.

My letter asking for the ZL1 to be moved to FS got denied, so that means 1LE if I want a Camaro...

[hcsi99]

Our regions first event is April 6th. I'm worried that the temp outside will not be high enough to enjoy the car. If the weather doesn't start getting better our first event my be the first time I get to drive my car, ever!