STROKER...

[Mchlgrrsn]

Although I did scratch and claw my way into supercharger.

[csjcsj]

Originally Posted by Mchlgrrsn

Nice looking car. You must have more money than me. I couldn't afford black rims. But they are coming in 2013.

Nope! Just powder coated stockers!

[Mchlgrrsn]

They look great

[VADER SS L99]

Whatever you decide I am not a fan of the stock bore LS3 427. I think it puts to much stress on other parts. Either do a 416 with original block or sleeve it out for more ci. You can also of course buy a whole new block like LSX, LS7 or whatever to get the 427ci+. You may also consider FI. A bolt on Whipple or ECS kit will give you 650RWHP+ for about 8K including all parts and labor. There is no way your going to get that kind of power that cheap from a NA motor.

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

Originally Posted by csjcsj

Just turned the motor into a 416! 10k is what the final cost was! Turned out a 500rwhp/508rwtq!

Monster! Nice numbers Scott.

Also hit up Anthony at LG. He builds a killer 416 at a even better price. They know what they are doing.

If you have time to kill, call Erik at HKE. I don't know any better engine builders than them boys. Good lord.

Good luck and don't believe everything that you read....call folks.

Ivan @ Southwest Speed

[litle88]

Originally Posted by lexlueger

Reading is fundamental. Where did I say ONLY? You can build a badass anything with enough money thrown at it. Most guys running FI opt for 376-416 Ci because it's the best balance between cubic inches and cylinder wall thickness. .
Crunch the numbers and they make sense..period. NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT.

Where do you come up with cylinder wall thickness? What does stroking have to do it?

You must read some more sir lol.

The benefit of a 416 ls3 based motor over the 427 Ls3 stroker is more meat on the piston.
You really think there's NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT between a 416/427? Stop it would you lol.

[csjcsj]

Thanks Ivan!

[litle88]

Originally Posted by SSCamaro2010

Im looking to make my motor a complete forged stroker. i have a cam, lifter, rods and full exhaust. i know going to a 416 is pretty safe. How much on average to have a shop AKA lingenfelter build my motor for me, and what kinds of gains have you guys seen with a NA forged stroker LS3?

You'll also need to change your cam if its not appropriate for the setup, if your going stroker I'd get better lifters like Brian Tooley's, a C5r timing chain, yes your fuel setup will/might need upgrading and yes lol your drivetrain. What heads are you going with? Intake? What header size do you have? There's lots to think about bud, do it once and do it right or end up paying twice.

[lexlueger]

Originally Posted by litle88

Where do you come up with cylinder wall thickness? What does stroking have to do it?

You must read some more sir lol.

The benefit of a 416 ls3 based motor over the 427 Ls3 stroker is more meat on the piston.
You really think there's NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT between a 416/427? Stop it would you lol.

Your right on the thickness..got my bore and stroke jumbled for a second. If displacement is irrelevant then two motors one being a 416 and one being 427 all things being equal make the same power? Lol..No sir..now you stop...

[litle88]

Ok you got me ~15hp lol
Will you feel it or tell at the track?
Not Really.

[Bo White]

Originally Posted by VADER SS L99

Whatever you decide I am not a fan of the stock bore LS3 427. I think it puts to much stress on other parts. Either do a 416 with original block or sleeve it out for more ci. You can also of course buy a whole new block like LSX, LS7 or whatever to get the 427ci+. You may also consider FI. A bolt on Whipple or ECS kit will give you 650RWHP+ for about 8K including all parts and labor. There is no way your going to get that kind of power that cheap from a NA motor.

I agree. The stock sleeves are not long enough to properly support the ring pack down at BDC with longer than 4.000" stroke. This is one of the main reasons aftermarket sleeves are longer on the bottom than stock sleeves.

[76z28]

most people in this seem to never have experienced the difference from a stock engine to a stroker it seems like. keep the same cam and just make more power lower. I went from a 350 to a 383 with everything being almost exactly the same(lowered the compression a little) the 383 will walk off and leave that 350. I used to be skeptical but after the change in the way my corvette drove and felt.. i am a believer now
Build a street engine for LOW RPM not high like most people want.. heck thats why i surprise a lot of these newer cars with my tail lights

[Fast6.3]

extras arp bolts or studs oil pump gaskets timing set or just timing chain oem style lifters or link bar lifters pushrods cnc heads or stock upgrade valve hollow titanium, steel or titanium retainers stock or aftermarket rockers stock or fast intake tuning throttle body
billet or stock main caps and the list keeps on going its best to set your goals and budget talk to a few enginebuilders and go from there tsp has some nice shortblocks and if you do the math buying parts machine shop build labor it might be cheaper to go the short or long block route of course being involved in your build is awsome

[MaxKamai]

Originally Posted by Bo White

I agree. The stock sleeves are not long enough to properly support the ring pack down at BDC with longer than 4.000" stroke. This is one of the main reasons aftermarket sleeves are longer on the bottom than stock sleeves.

+1. There is a lot of info out there about issues with the pistons rocking and rings not sealing properly at the bottom of the stroke on 4.1" and 4.125" cranks in stock blocks. I just got a rotating assy. minus pistons for a 416-418 motor whenever I can be without my car long enough for machine work.