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Old 03-30-2017, 03:30 PM   #1
bdubz
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Conventional oil to full synthetic

Got my first Camaro last Oct... not sure what oil its got in it and its ready for an oil change.

Might be a dumb one but question is.. are their any known issues going from conventional to full synthetic? or should I do a blend first?
(2012 L99 39k miles)

I'm seeing a lot of positive things about Mobile1 and AMSOIL synthetic.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-30-2017, 03:33 PM   #2
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Always use full synthetic, your engine will thank you in the long run.
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Old 03-30-2017, 03:36 PM   #3
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Can't really go wrong with Amsoil. I used to run mobil 1 but I kept hearing that they weren't as good as they were a few years ago.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:07 PM   #4
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Full synthetic with a good additive package, might clean your internals a bit better, than the previous dyno oil. Dyno oil is also more prone to carbon buildup at high temps.

You won't have a problem at your mileage interval making the switch, BUT if you suffer from OCD like I do on certain things, then you will want to perform your 1st oil change with the full synthetic a bit sooner than usual, due to the fact that it may dislodge some of the carbon, etc, left behind by the dyno oil.

25 years ago, what I just wrote above, would have created a frenzy of bashing, argueing, mocking, and flame throwing, but that debate ended years ago, lol.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:16 PM   #5
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No there will be no issues. Mobile 1 is a good oil.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:23 PM   #6
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Im the opposite (and it will still cause a grumble or two)..still not sold on synthetics. My cars, old and new, have never failed me on Dino oil.....and some have gone many a mile. But I have also accepted synthetics for what they are. So I think a full or blend will work well for you. Just keep an eye on the level...if, by chance you are going from dino to synthetic.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avenging Orange View Post
Im the opposite (and it will still cause a grumble or two)..still not sold on synthetics. My cars, old and new, have never failed me on Dino oil.....and some have gone many a mile. But I have also accepted synthetics for what they are. So I think a full or blend will work well for you. Just keep an eye on the level...if, by chance you are going from dino to synthetic.
Of course!

My dad ran his Slant 6 Dodge Dart, and Dodge Spirit 2.5 4 banger to astronomical, 6 digit mileage figures, using the cheapest mineral oil, that happened to be on "special" in the flyers. We are talking cents per quart, not dollars, lol.

Of course, he NEVER revved them to redline, drove gently, and he always used a block heater in the winter. He also did not care about HP gains on the dyno, with a full synthetic setup, driveline and engine.

I always did tell him, give me your car for 2 weeks, "let me drive your car, the same way I drive my BMW with Mobil 1(this was the good ol days of Mobil 1 ) , and then we see how many YUKS you get!"

He never argued, because unfortunately, I tended to be right.

The point is, there is a product, that is tailored for your application. You cannot go wrong either way, if you keep it real ; ).
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:44 PM   #8
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The first couple years they came with Mobile 1, then they went with a blend. They never came with straight dino oil, so switching over is a non issue.
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:21 PM   #9
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Oil now is way different than it used to be, your Camaro is designed with its oiling system for 5w30 weight and uses Dexos as the standard which is a 50/50 blend. When modding the engine you may want to stick with a even higher quality oil though such as I use a Driven racing ls30, or Amsoil or what ever you find that when researching is the best. Because there is research out there a test done by a lab for Amsoil that compares many synthetic oils which showed ....well here it is;

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G3115.pdf

I pick my oil specifically for usage by my modified engine needing higher zddp, good sheer and MPAO a term everyone will come to know eventually and its relation to oil. Driven racing gives testimonials and lots of tech articles and bulletins I have read over the years on the importance of even doing a good break in on a roller cam as in its effected a 400% increase in not trashing a cam breaking in engines for Joe Gibbs with its br30 oil. I use br30 for break in of my cam and engine. LS30 is full synthetic and I change it out in less than 5k intervals to be safe.

Good luck on the first oil change...LOL you are running Mobil one Dexos standard 50/50 blend from the factory, and its most likely the oil the person used driving it. And if you read this report well the one that's a Mobil does not do so well on many tests.... of some very important areas of protection for oil.. such as wear. Seems the Pennsoil, did lots better than the Mobil, even maybe the Valvoline, with some different oils having better performance, but I could not see doing ten thousand mile oil changes no matter what any oil may claim the oil does get dirtier and not so much good probably for forming deposits.
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christianchevell View Post
Oil now is way different than it used to be, your Camaro is designed with its oiling system for 5w30 weight and uses Dexos as the standard which is a 50/50 blend. When modding the engine you may want to stick with a even higher quality oil though such as I use a Driven racing ls30, or Amsoil or what ever you find that when researching is the best. Because there is research out there a test done by a lab for Amsoil that compares many synthetic oils which showed ....well here it is;

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G3115.pdf

I pick my oil specifically for usage by my modified engine needing higher zddp, good sheer and MPAO a term everyone will come to know eventually and its relation to oil. Driven racing gives testimonials and lots of tech articles and bulletins I have read over the years on the importance of even doing a good break in on a roller cam as in its effected a 400% increase in not trashing a cam breaking in engines for Joe Gibbs with its br30 oil. I use br30 for break in of my cam and engine. LS30 is full synthetic and I change it out in less than 5k intervals to be safe. Good luck on the first oil change...LOL you are running Mobil one Dexos standard 50/50 blend from the factory, and its most likely the oil the person used driving it. And if you read this report well the one that's a Mobil does not do so well on many tests.... of some very important areas of protection for oil.. such as wear.


Amsoil does not allow api, or any other outside testing for the data amsoil gives. They have over on hundred website domains they pay for, just for their motor oil. They fluff the numbers, and summaries. The petroleum quality institute, but us oil off the shelves to test them. http://pqiamerica.com/PCMO_Sample_Su...2_15_2016.html
AC delco conventional oil test almost the same, except for cold flow. Amsoil has to post in so many places for the smoking mirrors. There's reasons why everyone else has their oil certified by the api. I'm not keeping oil in the car for over eleven thousand miles either. Talk about fluffing numbers. Noack is one of the more important numbers to look at, especially with GDI engines.
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:19 PM   #11
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let me ask a question here.why is dexos recommended for 6 cylinders? would using synthetic instead oif a blend be better also for the 6?
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:23 PM   #12
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Look at my post (#14) in this thread. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489233 It explains, and shows why I chose the oil I did.
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coleroad View Post
Amsoil does not allow api, or any other outside testing for the data amsoil gives. They have over on hundred website domains they pay for, just for their motor oil. They fluff the numbers, and summaries. The petroleum quality institute, but us oil off the shelves to test them. http://pqiamerica.com/PCMO_Sample_Su...2_15_2016.html
AC delco conventional oil test almost the same, except for cold flow. Amsoil has to post in so many places for the smoking mirrors. There's reasons why everyone else has their oil certified by the api. I'm not keeping oil in the car for over eleven thousand miles either. Talk about fluffing numbers. Noack is one of the more important numbers to look at, especially with GDI engines.
I'm not really aware of most oil's that are performance/track oriented, like the Joe Gibbs, Amsoil, Redline, and be API certified??

Isn't API certification meant for diesels and gasser engines fuel economy and emissions standards?
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:39 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Camaro Dude View Post
I'm not really aware of most oil's that are performance/track oriented, like the Joe Gibbs, Amsoil, Redline, and be API certified??

Isn't API certification meant for diesels and gasser engines fuel economy and emissions standards?
The label on it says it meets the api standards, but it's not certified as such by api. For this oil, amsoil gives different numbers depending on which one of the hundred or so sites they have. I'm sure it does meet the standards, but why so many sites, and conflicting information. One can buy oil with as good or better numbers for less. Redline doesn't do all the crap amsoil does.
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