Driver Advice Needed

[zlathim]

I'm going to guess that your son is a little bit faster than you and the difference in density altitude is making it look a lot worse. My car ran 3 tenths slower in the heat than it did in the cool spring air.

Get that rear suspension beefed up and keep practicing. Work on getting that 60' time down and the rest of it will take care of itself.

[05SilverStreak]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

There is in the manual a stock launch procedure that goes up in the 4k range when mashing in the pedal in first but its a real shock and most launch in 3 thousand ranges to not just wheel hop or hammer the thing..... And yes the stock trailing arms and toes are weak.....

one of the first things I did to kill wheel hop after my first build. I use a speed hut OBD 2 shift light and recommend you just learn to feel when its leaving harder in what gears, 1st to about 45 with the stock 3:45's then to third by the end of the run is what with 3:45s you should do at about 120's at the track, but the 1.6 range is good reaction time/ 60 ft.

I don't drag yet, your times are more badly showing need for practice and the fact you could be on stock tires with that ET; and basically a stock engine with tune and just headers is not that powerful.... The stock time for a 10 Camaro on zero to sixty times does put you to shame so practice up its as I recall a 13.0, and you have to take into account D A etc... and eventually a 12.7 is where the best are is stock for the fifth gen... https://www.zeroto60times.com/vehicl...-60-mph-times/

Your driving a heavy Chevy BTW So torque is what moves you, shifting in the 6k range when your about to hit the redline does not help you want to go for when your heavy chevys really moving in its power band more in lower rpms more with torque that is what moves you, once the torque drops off its just pushing the engine harder to try to make what its failing at and has to be built for.... You would if tuned also want to make sure the torque management is kicked to the curd as its a power killer, and if your driving with nannies.....MEH traction control is fine with street driving and I always leave it on but I have killed off torque management, traction control can help when you get fishy when you have mega torque take off down low, but for a stockish motor...MEH you may want to drive it like a old chevy; lay on the brakes heat the rubber overwhelming the rear brakes since you don't have a line lock, then hit it hard but not so hard you spin as spinnin aint winnin…… Good Luck. Your times are lame with out NOS and you should be launching above what you set a two step for..... And then you do not want to use above about a 125 shot to 150 shot as your hypereutectic and if your not tuned just right and "dynode" you may just kill timing trying to not explode and defeat yourself...……

NOS is a poor mans power maker that eventually makes the engine get old really fast..... way faster than anyone would like with stock rings and stock pistons, its a desperate mans power adder when not forged and tuned perfect IMO....



Hers a old tune from a 235/239 TSP cam on my 13 with a stock cube ls3 with CAI and longtubes and HFC its power band shows I shift before the 6k range which is really just a fraction of a second quicker.... So about 5600 I start dropping in torque with that motor, given that It takes reaction time I set the shift light to 5k because 500 rpm is reaction to hit it to the next gear, and I use a MGW shifter; stock is a real POS...… And heres a nice video from speed hut showing the camaro shifter light in a demo with cool tunes ...LOL good Luck.... https://www.speedhut.com/about-shiftlights.html https://youtu.be/VyP7UQ8TGxs

I have been using NOS On and off the track for over 100,000 miles and my motor purrs like a kitten and uses no oil. I did the install, timing, and tuning myself. Its my daily commuter car with 155,00 hard miles on it. Do your own work, know your car, and fix what you break.

[redirish]

Originally Posted by zlathim

I'm going to guess that your son is a little bit faster than you and the difference in density altitude is making it look a lot worse. My car ran 3 tenths slower in the heat than it did in the cool spring air.

Get that rear suspension beefed up and keep practicing. Work on getting that 60' time down and the rest of it will take care of itself.

I notice you have a hydraulic adjuster. Does that help with the feel of the clutch? I have a street slayer dual and it's great on the street but not much of a feel for the 60'

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

There is in the manual a stock launch procedure that goes up in the 4k range when mashing in the pedal in first but its a real shock and most launch in 3 thousand ranges to not just wheel hop or hammer the thing..... And yes the stock trailing arms and toes are weak.....

one of the first things I did to kill wheel hop after my first build. I use a speed hut OBD 2 shift light and recommend you just learn to feel when its leaving harder in what gears, 1st to about 45 with the stock 3:45's then to third by the end of the run is what with 3:45s you should do at about 120's at the track, but the 1.6 range is good reaction time/ 60 ft.

I don't drag yet, your times are more badly showing need for practice and the fact you could be on stock tires with that ET; and basically a stock engine with tune and just headers is not that powerful.... The stock time for a 10 Camaro on zero to sixty times does put you to shame so practice up its as I recall a 13.0, and you have to take into account D A etc... and eventually a 12.7 is where the best are is stock for the fifth gen... https://www.zeroto60times.com/vehicl...-60-mph-times/

Your driving a heavy Chevy BTW So torque is what moves you, shifting in the 6k range when your about to hit the redline does not help you want to go for when your heavy chevys really moving in its power band more in lower rpms more with torque that is what moves you, once the torque drops off its just pushing the engine harder to try to make what its failing at and has to be built for.... You would if tuned also want to make sure the torque management is kicked to the curd as its a power killer, and if your driving with nannies.....MEH traction control is fine with street driving and I always leave it on but I have killed off torque management, traction control can help when you get fishy when you have mega torque take off down low, but for a stockish motor...MEH you may want to drive it like a old chevy; lay on the brakes heat the rubber overwhelming the rear brakes since you don't have a line lock, then hit it hard but not so hard you spin as spinnin aint winnin…… Good Luck. Your times are lame with out NOS and you should be launching above what you set a two step for..... And then you do not want to use above about a 125 shot to 150 shot as your hypereutectic and if your not tuned just right and "dynode" you may just kill timing trying to not explode and defeat yourself...……

NOS is a poor mans power maker that eventually makes the engine get old really fast..... way faster than anyone would like with stock rings and stock pistons, its a desperate mans power adder when not forged and tuned perfect IMO....



Hers a old tune from a 235/239 TSP cam on my 13 with a stock cube ls3 with CAI and longtubes and HFC its power band shows I shift before the 6k range which is really just a fraction of a second quicker.... So about 5600 I start dropping in torque with that motor, given that It takes reaction time I set the shift light to 5k because 500 rpm is reaction to hit it to the next gear, and I use a MGW shifter; stock is a real POS...… And heres a nice video from speed hut showing the camaro shifter light in a demo with cool tunes ...LOL good Luck.... https://www.speedhut.com/about-shiftlights.html https://youtu.be/VyP7UQ8TGxs

There's a lot of misinformation here. But the worst of it is him saying you should be shifting once the torque drops off. If that were the case I would be shifting at 4500RPM, when I make peak horsepower at 6,700 RPM. Maybe he meant shift before the Power drops off but the way it is worded is dead wrong. I can't hit 120MPH in 3rd gear with stock gearing and my higher RPM range. Built and hooking at the track people are leaving at 5k rpm for a good launch with some clutch slippage. 60ft time has nothing to do with reaction time and a 1.6 would be really good on slicks, you won't get that on stock tires and power. You are driving a stick so there is no torque management. The comments about NOS are silly. Basically ignore his whole post.

[MrChrisLS3]

I'll just throw this out there, but perhaps you're overthinking it. Though it's been awhile since I did a 1320, I recall that my worst times came when I was really trying to get my best time. The best times came when I just f it was just having fun.