11-20-2017, 11:21 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2014 SS - Sleeved 427/Procharged Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Central Oklahoma
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Engine Oil
Call me stupid for asking this, the oil weight GM specifies to load into the 6.2 L99/LS3 is 5W-30. I've gone by this standard ever since I got my Camaro. I've been seeing AMSOIL advertisements about putting much higher weight oil into racing (built, blown, stroked, bored etc.) engines. My L99 block is converted to an LS3 (LS7 lifters, new trays, new chain, etc.) and is cammed with a Procharger as well. Would it be alright, and maybe even wise to run a heavier oil such as 10W-30, which is the lowest weight AMSOIL Dominator Oil (which is the one I'm leaning towards) comes in. If so, would anyone recommend a certain weight for this application? My engine spins out to nearly 7,000rpm at WOT and hearing about what the wrong oil does makes me kinda squeamish. Thanks - Vis.
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11-21-2017, 08:09 AM | #2 |
Resident nomad
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I'm sure there's a thousand threads on this very subject, but here's my shadetree/old dude two cents. Yes, you can run a 10W-30 with no issue. It's not that much of a difference to create problems like the bearings not getting the proper flow of oil. I wouldn't run something like the 50W's other owners here are sometimes running in their LS3's, unless the motor was built with bearing clearances to match that heavy an oil.
What did the shop you had the cam and blower installed recommend? Overall, the most important thing is you run a quality oil, and you change it and the filter commensurate with how freaking hard you run that bitch
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11-21-2017, 08:40 AM | #3 |
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You're fine. The first number is for cold start viscosity and you wouldn't be high-revving while it's cold anyway. You'd be well within the 30 spec before the engine is putting stress. Just take it easier in the colder mornings if you have them.
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11-21-2017, 09:37 AM | #4 |
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In Amsoil's line for you I'd recommend 10w30 Zrod.
Dominator is their racing oil. Racing oils require very frequent oil change intervals as they do not have the detergents needed for typical street/performance car use. Zrod has the higher zinc/phos, plus the detergents needed for a good street/performance oil. 10w30 is fine, unless going to be in really low below freezing temps, then I'd use 5w30 Signature Series. |
11-21-2017, 10:08 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2014 SS - Sleeved 427/Procharged Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Central Oklahoma
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Thanks for the replies guys. I'll look into the Z-Rod oil
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11-21-2017, 11:34 AM | #6 |
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0/40 Mobile one euro formula , works great .
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11-21-2017, 02:00 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
This is exactly what I run. Good oil. |
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11-21-2017, 05:45 PM | #8 |
old school chevy rodder
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look into driven racing oil specifically made for a modified LS engine I use LS30.......our oiling is a system specifically made for lighter weight oils as to not starve the top end....very important for wear on start up. I order my oil and pick it up from my local baxter auto supply, lots of old school guys use driven racing oil so its sold from the stock at the warehouse and not just something you see on a shelf usually unless its a break in oil ...which they sell a lot of..you will find nothing better than Driven if you read up things like MPAO matter and you will hear about it and sheer and ZDDP etc.....
And BTW its recommended by god himself if you read the endorcements its like every cam and bearing maker etc etc.......... And BTW many raise their top redline on their tune......not something I did or will do, the ls7 has a higher limit thanks to 1.8 rockers( thus less lift on the cam even built) , serious money for a good top end to go higher when your most likely far into diminished returns when looking at a dyno chart for a ls3 typical cams bought for street strip up to stage 4....++++ and most makers only test their springs to 7k BTW............. Anyway you could just use what ever for oil, amsoil is pretty good if you look at their comparison of synthetic online in a study, but the costs and the no way I am running oil for 10k....let alone its not made more engine specific like the driven......well lots of things made me choose my oil and studying things helps. And yes I do a break in with br30....and read the tech and bulletin articles as they care as the info comes from racers as the oil was born from NASCAR and its needs.....Joe Gibbs etc and making a 400% improvement in break in /longevity.... yup some awesome testimonials of people finishing races with their oil and no pressure.....etc
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Last edited by christianchevell; 11-21-2017 at 05:57 PM. |
11-23-2017, 01:36 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2014 SS - Sleeved 427/Procharged Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Central Oklahoma
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11-23-2017, 04:43 AM | #10 |
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Food for thought.
www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466584 www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511832
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11-23-2017, 04:53 PM | #11 |
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11-23-2017, 07:04 PM | #12 | |
Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
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Quote:
For you to kick things off, 10w/30, choose your poison, can't go wrong man. Do oil analysis if racing hard, move up accordingly |
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11-23-2017, 09:47 PM | #13 |
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I would use 0w-40 or 5w-40. Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck is SN rated for gas use and is a great oil. Just don't rev the motor until the oil gets up to temp with the low pressure bypass valves (1 in the pan for AFM, 1 in the oil pump). Do an oil analysis after running a 30 and 40 for at least 3000 miles. For true apple to apples the Si (silicon) levels need to be same for both samples. Silicon measures dirt, which is the biggest cause of wear no matter what oil you use, so a good air filter and tight plumbing critical.
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12-11-2017, 02:14 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2014 SS - Sleeved 427/Procharged Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 109
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Will do
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